Originally Posted by
SeanD
Update: I picked up a bunch of 5-gal Sanke kegs this summer from a brewery that went under.
For the sealing the keg, I bought the flat on one side gaskets, end caps, and clamps off Amazon. Thanks for that tip!
The end caps and gaskets are a perfect fit for the 2" diameter on the keg opening. The clamp takes some finesse to go on straight as the thickness of the cap, gasket, and lip of the keg is a tad more than a typical tri-clamp connection. I'm getting the clamps on, but as I mentioned, it takes some care and practice. Once on straight, I'm able to tighten by hand for a small number of turns. Then I used a screwdriver like a lever through the nut of the clamp to go a few more half-turns. I stopped because I didn't know how far to go. Is finger tight typically good? How tight is tight enough with a tri-clamp fitting? Admittedly I have the tendency to over do this kind of thing and end up breaking something.
Tomorrow, I'll put some hot water in a few of them to test for leaks. I figure if I can get it to hiss when I open it the following day that would be a good test of the seal before putting syrup in.
Any input on tightening up the tri-clamp is appreciated.
Sean
I usually tighten at least 2-3 more revolutions after you can't hand tighten them. I use a (whatever size open end wrench 3/4" I think??) to do the various turning from the outside. you can stick one end in the hole of the clamp, but I always try to avoid touching the threads as to not damage them. The clamp ear will start to bend if you keep going, but i'd only go 3 screw threads max after you cannot hand tighten.
Mark
Where we made syrup long before the trendies made it popular, now its just another commodity.
John Deere 4000, 830, and 420 crawler
1400 taps, 600 gph CDL RO, 4x12 wood-fired Leader, forced air and preheater. 400 gallon Sap-O-Matic vacuum gathering tank, PTO powered. 2500 gallon X truck tank, 17 bulk tanks.
No cage tanks allowed on this farm!