Drilling Fire Brick

[Bucket Head]

Do any of you guy's have pictures of the fabrications and completed firebox's and brickgrates? If so, could you post them?

Thank's guy's.

Steve

[802maple]

Steve

I wish I was good in that picture department.

What I do is like Brandon said,except i usually use 2 inch x 1/4 angle.

I remove the the old grates and measure how long it is from grate ledge to grate ledge front to back and add a couple inches so that the angles will be long enough to sit on the ledges. You will also have to cut a notch out of the angle iron so that it will sit down flat on the ledge.

I put the first angle in the center and continue putting them at 4 and !/2 inch centers(as most firebrick are 4 and 1/2 inches wide) until you are out to both edges. This will allow you to have the firebrick laying on the angle by an inch. In my opinion it is important to have the angles going front to back as not to interfer with the airflow.

As far as firebrick go they drill very easy, I recommend 3/4 inch holes, I usally go with 3 holes but Brandon I believe went with 4. The best thing about brick are they are very easy to change if you don't mortar them as that isn't necessary. Plus the forced air grate that you buy from the Maple equipment guys allow to much air thru them as there are to many holes. Tis will give you plenty of air, if you want a hotter and more efficient fire just add air to the top.

This can be done by building a plenum where your blower is at the rear of the arch and putting duct work up through the bottom of your arch where your angle comes up to meet your flues, no matter whether they are dropped or raised flues. In side your arch I would use a piece of 3x3 or 4x4 by 1/4 inch box tubing and weld 2 rows of nozzles above each other of nozzles made out of 1/2 black iron pipe on 3 inch centers no matter what size evaporator you have. I would then insulate your new air injector system with 2300 degree 6lb blanket and you will be good to go.

Also in your plenum I would put some kind of damper system as to control airflow to the 2 places air is needed.

I know pictures will say a 1000 words but I haven't taken the time to figure all of that stuff out. I can turn this thing on and type because I was made to take typing in school but beyond that I headed for the woods

[danno]

Steve - you asked about 1/2 brick. There are a couple places I have used them.

I used them on the top row of brick directly under the pans. As they are thinner - they allow that much more fire under the edges of the pans.

I've also used them as a single layer over my vermiculite in the center of the arch. It's just there to keep the vermiculite from blowing up the stack.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I did drill 3 holes in my brick 3/4" in diameter as Jerry had mentioned above and it seems to put plenty of air from the bottom. I am working on hopefully adding air above and behind the fire next.

[SeanD]

Why put bricks on the angle iron at all? Don't the ash and blower keep the grate from warping?

[mfchef54]

my evaporator has three sets of angle iron for the bricks to fit on. I'm using regular bricks with holes, (like the original owner) . after the first three firings the middle brick broke and I just replaced it. the ash just falls through (what little there is left) Using a blower helps. I think the air flow is good. the original owner said that he was getting 10/hr, with the blower I'm getting18-20

[Bucket Head]

Thank's for the info guy's.

Jerry- I don't mortar my brick's either. I figured it would be better to be able to change them and remove them if I ever move the whole rig.

The square tube manifold would go around the entire firebox? It would not work if it was only on the sides, or on the sides and along the back only?

What about the height of it? My fire box is 17" from the grate to the bottom of the syrup pan. How high up from the grate, or how far down from the pan, should the row of nozzles be?

This whole system is to cause turbulence, and mix the combustion gases. Would there be any benefit to have the nozzles directed at different angles? Say, some pointing right at the fire, some up at the pan, and some down wards?

It's too late to get this system going this year, but I am looking forward to having it operational for next season. I have been thinking about this set-up quite a bit. I'm undecided wether I will plumb the manifold outside or inside of the evaporator. I'm leaning towards outside.

I'm already fired up about the 2010 season with this system in the works!

Steve

[ryan marquette]

Has anyone used firebricks for grates with no blower? I'm building an arch but I won't be able to do a blower this year.

[802maple]

Steve it won't hurt to point them at all angles just don't point any at the pans as that would be a cooling effect. I haven't tried putting them all around the firebox but I have always wanted to give it a try. I try to get them as close to the pans as possible and pointed down at the fire.

Ryan- I would doubt if it would supply enough air through the bricks.

[Bucket Head]

Jerry,

I might only be able to plumb the manifold in a U shape, with just the sides and back wall having the nozzles. Would that be enough air supply? Or should I go the extra and somehow get the manifold to the front too?

I also have given a lot of thought to a bubbler. Then I read what you said about the bubbler on the oil fired rig that kept steaming after shutdown. I think a small system, just in the rear third of my flue pan would make a difference. The boil is not strong at all at the rear.

What size high pressure blower would I need if I were to use one blower for the under grate air, the new over fire air, and possibly a small bubbler? Or, is it even feasable? Maybe it should have different sources, I don't know. I was thinking that if I were to invest in one these blower's, which are a little pricey compared to my freebie furnace blower, I would get one that would "do it all". Maybe even get one big enough to supply air to a steamaway also, but thats a long way off. I'm sure with ducting, and dampers, or diverters of some kind, I could divide up the air from a big blower so it could feed everything.

What size and horsepower blowers have you used, or seen on other rigs?

Steve