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Thread: Drilling Fire Brick

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Default Drilling Fire Brick

    I'm rebuilding my grates out of fire brick. Any idea how easy/hard it is to drill fire brick. I've cut fire brick pretty easily over the years to brick a few different arches, but have never drilled the stuff.

    I'm looking to drill 3/4" or 1" inch holes with a mason bit to allow some of the ash to fall through, and more importantly, to allow some forced air to come up through.

    Any of you guys that have done this, were you able to find pre driiled brick, or did you have to drill it yourself?
    Danno
    Just West of Syracuse
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  2. #2
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    Default

    why not just use a House brick with holes already in it? They won't last as long, but they are cheap usually.

  3. #3
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    The slightly yellow fire brick drills like butter. Dont use the hammer drill option because that will cause cracking. H D has hole saws for tile and they will get you a bigger hole. If dust is a problem use a cordless drill and sublerg the brick in a bucket of water and drill the holes. When you drill as soon as the bit shows thru the backside stop and drill from the oposite side it wont blow out on you. Nice neat holes.
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  4. #4
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    When I drill them I use a 3/4" cement bit and haul the drill press outside, I made a jig to clamp to the table and slide them along , 1,2,3 , makes it go faster.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Thanks guys.

    What do you use to support the bricks - when using them as grates. I'm thinking steel mesh. It obviously can't be sheet metal - cause I need air to pass through and ash to fall through.

    Do the holes in the brick plug right up with ash?
    Danno
    Just West of Syracuse
    3 x 10 Lightning
    Sihi Vacuum
    Sap Bros RO
    600 taps and buying sap

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    New Hartford, N.Y.
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    Default

    Yes, what do you use for support?

    How many 3/4 holes per brick?

    Full or half brick?

    Also, out of curiosity, why are there two sizes of fire brick? Where would you want to use a thin one over a thick one, and vice-versa?

    Steve
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  7. #7
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    I use 2 pieces of angle iron 1.25" x 1/4" thick welded together and the ends cut off enough to allow the end to sit on the grate supports on my archfront and rear of the firebox. This allows air to flow between the supports and this design actually helps force air up into the holes in my opinion. This allows a nice flat support on top and I run the bricks lengthwise like the arch runs and have one of these supports on each side of a row of bricks and I would think as strong as these supports are and the constant amount of air flowing around them from my blower that they should last forever without any damage or wrapage.
    Last edited by WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER; 02-16-2009 at 09:27 AM.
    Brandon

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  8. #8
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    I use 2"x2"1/4" going across from brickrest to brickrest , space the brick so you have 1" of the end of the brick sitting on the angle , and the edge of the drilled hole is 1" in so it is free of the angle. The next brick behind it , same thing , sits , butts up to the other brick , 1" on the angle the hole is clear. The ends of the angle is notched to sit down on the brick rest.

  9. #9
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    Suspicously sounds like WFMason and WestVirginiaMapler do it just like I do. You guys are good students. Everybody back to class. LOL
    Success is not final,failure is not fatal.It is courage to continue that really counts


    Sugared for fifty years and still the newbies know more then me

  10. #10
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    It's easy to be a good student when you have a good teacher like Jerry.
    Brandon

    2x8 Leader Welded Drop Flue Modified Inferno arch
    2011 Leader 2x5 Steamaway
    Kubota L3400 DT 4x4 Tractor w/ Loader
    600 on gravity pipeline & 20 on buckets
    400 Natural Vacuum 3/16(2015)
    Lapierre 7" 4 bank filter press
    24x48 sugarhouse
    Deer Run Maple 500 RO for 2015
    WEBSITE: http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/aa160/wvmapler

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