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Some good progress today on the structure. It is still a work in progress. The temporary chords will be replaced with better ones. Supports from the posts to the beams to be added. Just one more truss/rafter to go up. I will be using 2x6 for strapping, because I have it available free.
Tonight I will build the remaining truss and start to cut pieces for the cupola.
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When I typed it in on their search bar it was as follows; double wall chimney pipe. The price that came up for my store was $115.49 that is U.S. dollars. I cannot believe that it more than doubles in Canada. The boot had the base flashing attached. I did add the extra ring that goes on the outside of the pipe to deflect water, but right now for the life of me I can't remember what they are called.
The structure that will house my evaporator is coming along. Just waiting for the metal roofing (June 13) and the decking material (next week) to arrive.
I still will add a cupola, but I am not a roof guy and my friend who is helping me says he will add it. He is doing it differently than I would, but seeing how he will be the one up on the roof and that he has built houses that have made magazines, I will yield to his knowledge.
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I am going to have to go to a stove pipe store and understand exactly what I need to do to come up through the metal roof. It is the only part of my plan for the up coming season where I still have no set plan for. I want to do it safely, but also do not want to break the bank.
After I have finished the structure and deck, the next thing will be to add the over center clamps to the vacuum filter. I highly recommend the vacuum filter. It did an excellent job of filtering and in under two minutes of time.
After that I will be adding piping to the garage, so that I can pump from some of my collection barrels, directly to my raw sap barrel for the RO.
Late August/early September, I will walk up where my new lines will go and like last year, I will use twine to mark the path where my lines will go. This not only helps with determining the best path for the lines, but helps me identify how much line I have to buy and how many drops, I will need.
I am still waiting for the metal roof to arrive next week and for the balance of my used deck boards to arrive, to finish the deck. That should be done by the weekend.
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In the end I decided not to add a cupola at this time. Partially because my friend helping me was reluctant to build it, but mostly because the sides and the ends are so wide open, the steam and smoke will easily find a way out.
If I ever get a real evaporator and close in the shelter, or if I find that the steam and smoke is not exiting well, I have structured things so that I can always add one in the future, with not too many problems.
After this is all completed, my next project is to add the off centered clamps to the vacuum filter.
Looks nice! For several years I had no opening directly above my evaporator. You are right that with big enough opening on the ends of the structure the steam will find it's way out. The problem is that there will be a constant pool of steam above the evaporator, and it will condense on those joists and drip into your pan.
Gabe
We got the metal roof on today. I will have to wait until next week to get the deck boards I need to finish the deck.
It will never be a “sugar shack” because it does not have any walls and no cupola, but it will be a good shelter for the evaporator. Once the evaporator is in it with the official looking base stack, it will look more like a sugar something. For the summer it will be a nice gazebo area.
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In the fall I will surround the evaporator area with a four foot high wall of my split wood for the evaporator. If need be when I start evaporating and there is a driving rain coming in on one side, I can always put up tarps.
Next thing, after I finish the deck boards, will be to get some good cobalt drill bits to drill the holes in my stainless steel vacuum filter, to install the over center clamps. I cannot tell you how good the DYI vacuum filter is, and what a great job of filtering it does and it does it in minutes (1 to 2 minutes).
My first structure was also what I called a sugaring gazebo.. the following year I obtained (by chance) some free materials and expanded the footprint and enclosed with walls.. I found the wind with the open gazebo made managing the steam very difficult, especially as I manually check the level in the pans (no float box and a siphon to connect pans).. You might consider wrapping the walls with thin plastic sheeting (i.e. just wrap and staple on the outside) for the month + you are boiling and then take down when the season is done. Blocking the wind from cooling the pans is also beneficial.. just a thought.
Looking good thought! Much nicer than my gazebo was! :-)
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by paulslund
My posts are 10x10 apart, so I will have four 10’ long tarps at the ready, and will adjust them as needed. I will have to learn what is best and that could be different each day.
My wife likes the open look during the summer, so the temporary tarping, may be the way I go for the next few years.
I just finished the deck on the structure today. All of the wood for the structure and the deck, with the exception of the four 6x6 posts, was free.
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Gary
Installed my over centred clamps on my vacuum filter today. It seemed impossible to drill last Spring, but with different drill bits and an improved technique, it became almost easy to drill today.
This will make filtering syrup even easier now. I highly recommend 4walls DYI vacuum filter. It does a super job of filtering in just minutes.
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Next project will be to build the stand that will hold the head tank. After that is to install the piping through the garage wall to pump directly from the collection barrels to the RO raw sap barrel, that will be in the garage.
2 things. Earlier you were asking or wondering about draw off frequency, just do it by temperature and don't try to time it. Actually back when I had a 2x6 I attended a seminar by Glen Goodrich and he said he draws continually. Yes his evaporator was far bigger, but I started doing continuous draws. As the temperature got to syrup, I cracked the draw off valve slightly. Early when I tried I was able to get 15-20 minute long trickle draws before I had to close the valve. In time I got better and a few times I got draws of 45-60 minutes. Then I graduated to a 3x8, the draws got longer. However after fighting getting an auto draw I finally got one, WOW, so much easier.
Cupola, they are easy to build. It's common to make them the same size as the evaporator. Just make them a little house on the roof with both sides openable and closeable, from below, at floor level.
ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by maple flats
When you say “In time I got better”, what did you do differently than before? Just cracked it less?
I finally received all of my parts for the pipe that will go through my garage wall. I will be pumping from collection barrels and transfer tanks into the garage into the RO raw sap barrel.
It is a 16” stainless steel pipe, with stainless steel couplings and brass fittings and brass quick connects. I will be able to have quick connects to connect to both ends of the pipe. I will wait for fall to drill the hole and hook up the pipe.
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Today I picked up my 3/16 tubing for my two new lines. I got the last two 500 rolls on the shelf. I also purchased all of the necessary fittings and new filters for the DYI vacuum filter.
Best of all I found a relatively cheap source for the translucent horizontal 35 gallon tanks. Still not cheap, but a lot cheaper than CDL and some other sources. I will buy two, one to go on my ATV to transfer sap from my remote collection barrels and the other will be my head tank.
My divided pan looks like it will come later than sooner.
I have a question. Last year with the batch boiling I never mixed batches. I had 14 separate batches. With the divided pans and draw offs, can I mix draw offs from different consecutive days, until I have enough that I want to then finish it?
As long as there is good flavor you can combine whatever you want to. It is purely up to you and what you want to achieve. I add my finished syrup to my bottler until I get enough to fill whatever container I am using at the time. I then grade this and bottle. The advantage for a smaller producer is less overall work by finishing less batches. The disadvantage is that you will not be able to keep all of your batches separate if that is you goal.
Picked up the metal for the frame that will go on top of my cinder blocks, that will support the divided pan. The angle iron pieces will also help secure the top of the firebricks. I will get them welded up next week. The angle iron is 1/4” thick and is 3”x2”, The end flat plates are 1/4” thick and 1.5” wide.
I will put gasket material between the metal and the pan.
The frame as shown is upside down. The angle pieces will point downward on the evaporator.
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I also droppped a string from the rod where the centre of the stove pipe will go and made a mark on the concrete pad below. Based on that mark, I can start to build the evaporator again, but will wait to mid August to start to build it. I will start bringing over the firewood that will surround the evaporator at the beginning of September.
Although I hope to get my pan and base stack before the snow flies in November, I am not positive that will happen.
When you say “In time I got better”, what did you do differently than before? Just cracked it less?
Yes, I just got more accurate in the amount I opened the valve so the draw could keep going longer.
I am still waiting for my metal frame to be welded and that should be done shortly.
In the meantime, I am starting to piece together my cinderblock evaporator. It is slightly shorter and definitely wider than last year’s evaporator. I am just putting some blocks down to determine whatever size blocks, metal floor and firebricks I will need. There will be a layer of firebricks over the metal floor.
The fire box will be 23.5” wide, 30” deep and 18” high. There will be an angled ramp for 7.5 inches, then a flat ramp for 15”. All of that will have firebrick on the surface. There will be 1.75” from the top of the firebrick on the flat ramp to the pan. With the fire grate added, there will be 12” from the grate to the pan. I can make it so there is 16.5” inches from the grate to the bottom of the pan, but that will result in considerably more firebrick
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I might not get my pan, float box and base stack until October. Hopefully not later than that.
My metal frame to hold the 4x2 divided pan and to help hold the fire bricks, arrived today. In the pictures the evaporator is not close to being finished, it is just little parts to see just how I am going to put it all together.
I needed to make sure my cinder blocks were the exact distance apart from each other and wanted to wait until I received the metal frame. It turned out it fit exactly and not only held the fire brick to the side of the cinder block well, but also had slight down pressure to help hold the fire bricks in place.
As this year’s evaporator is 10” wider than last years, I will have to make an additional 10” wide angled ramp and also make a 2.5 inch filler for the other parts of the ramp. I will be pouring concrete into forms tomorrow to make those pieces.
I may also get my wider fire grate tomorrow. Before the end of this week, I should have all of the evaporator built, with the exception of the base stack. I hope I get that before the snow flies.
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Today I poured the concrete for the missing pieces of my cinder block evaporator. Before the end of the week, it should be all built except not having the base stack and divided pan.
Before I finish the evaporator, just wondering if I am building something that will succeed. I will have four inches of space below the fire grate. The fire box will be 23.5” wide. There is a 45° angled ramp about 7.5” long, then a flat ramp, 15” long, with a 1.75” space between the ramp firebrick and the bottom of the pan. There is a base stack over the end part of the 15” flat ramp that feeds into an 8” stove pipe, that will be 12’ tall with no rain cap.
Right now I am not planning on a blower, but could add one, but I am not sure one would be good for the cinder blocks.
Do you think I should have good draft with this setup?
I did not get everything done I had hoped to, but I did get a lot done. I cut the metal to fit for the floor plate, and cut concrete blocks and panels to fit certain locations. I also took the concrete I poured for other locations and they all fit perfectly. I then started to place the firebrick. The angle iron holds the top of the firebrick really well.
Tomorrow I will cut the firebrick to fit the special places.
The only thing I do not have set in my head yet is the door, I keep changing my mind. Last year I had a large concrete door with handles that I simply slid off to the side, when I wanted to load wood. It was a pretty good fit and seal, but was not perfect.
I will come up with something.
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I have the fire brick basically completed. Some sand yet to fill in some spaces on the floor, the sides are tight.
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Now to figure out the door.
That looks amazing. I want to build that. After you figure out the door and show us those pictures! And your AUF/AOF setup. :-)
I can't access your pictures, I have an Android phone not an Apple.
It should still open on an Android phone, I just tested sending the same link to my buddies android phone and it worked and you are the first person that has ever said you could not open one of my iCloud links. I am not sure what to do to help. Sorry you cannot see the picture.
Gary
So I had considered getting a metal 12x12 door and attaching it to metal plates, getting things welded and making it all fit, but that would have been $400 or more by the time I was done. With all of the other expenditures with the divided pan, float box, stainless steel lid and the base stack, two new 500’ lines each, I thought that project could wait a year.
Instead I reused left over material from last year’s evaporator, and I am using last year’s door (although I will renew it), and it will work just fine.
The handles on the door were simply wood from my wood pile, that is cut to size and drilled. I will renew the handles as well. So other than buying a concrete patio stone to replace the door panel, it cost me nothing.
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After reading some posts about DYI AUF, I know what I want to do. It definitely will be variable speed and will likely be on a low setting. I know last year, my leaf blower, even from a distance was way too much. I am not sure I need it, but maybe a little additional air will help, without damaging the cinder blocks.
I purchased this fan for my AUF. I will rig up something to vary the speed, unless the airflow is not overly powerful.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00CQBFOTS?...p_imgToDp&th=1
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Once I see how much flow comes out it, I may find a way to pipe it to come out in two different locations.
Edit: Well that was easy, I now have ordered my fan speed controller. https://www.amazon.ca/iPower-Exhaust...714FFG4F&psc=1
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I was thinking piping the flow to have AUF and AOF, but I doubt this fan has the pressure for that and will be happy with air coming from under the grate. I might yet split the flow to come out each side of the draft opening.
The fan arrived today from Amazon, I think less than 24 hours after I ordered it. I think it will produce the right amount of air for my cinder block arch. I will have the speed control to dial back if need be, but may not need it. I was thinking of splitting the flow, but seeing it, I just will funnel it towards the opening below the grate. I will just use some 4” metal ducting either side of it.
It should increase the heat in the firebox, but I don’t want to get overly hot and overly damage the cinder blocks.
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Gary, you won't damage the cinder blocks, you have them protected with fire brick. I don't think that fan will get your firebricks that hot. my squirrel cage blower on my sealed arch can make mine glow.
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pdiamond
Last season with my leaf blower just idling, and held at a distance, it caused the flames to come out from under the door and fire was going crazy.
I will give this one a try. It will be better than nothing and I can always quickly get something like a squirrel cage blower, if I need something more powerful.
I am glad that I have had stuff to do on the evaporator and building the sugar gazebo and deck this summer, it has kept the maple season jitters away.
In the next two to four weeks, when my brother comes to visit, I have 5 face cords of split wood, that is a year and half old, to split further into wrist sized pieces, and will surround the evaporator with the newly split wood on three sides.
Also I have string that I will run to find the path for the two new lines. I will identify the maple trees to be tapped and will measure how much tubing I will need. Each spool of line is 500 feet long. I have already purchased two 500’ rolls of tubing and need to know if I will need more. (Hope not)
I have walked up the steep incline once and have no real idea how far it is to the peak and how many maple trees there are enroute. My goal is to have 30 taps on each of the two new lines. I think with the steepness of the hill, I can get away with 30 taps per 3/16 line.
In October I will put out the actual lines. Two are actually out, with five other long ones and two short ones to put out.
My primary transfer pump has arrived. My friend who has been doing sugaring for years has one just like it. It will pump much faster than last year’s pump and will be easier to use. It has stainless steel components. I will use it to transfer sap from my collection barrels, to my 30 gallon transfer tank, to my RO raw sap barrel. Tomorrow I will buy a fitting to go from the 1” NPT outlet to GHT. I will also buy a connector to go from the bare end of the 12 volt cord to my quick connect cables. It will be powered by my ATV and the transfer tank will also be mounted on my ATV.
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I will also buy a patio stone for my arch door. Last year’s door was 24x14x2”, but this year I will put a thinner and slightly smaller door, just to reduce some weight. 24x12x1.5” It should work the same.
I will be buying two horizontal translucent 35 gallon tanks and one or two new translucent Uline 55 gallon tanks.
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For my 12 volt equipment like pumps, I use normal 120 volt ends (cut an extension cord in half). These are much better than any quick connect fittings that I have found and you can use a standard extension cord if you need more length. What I wish I would have done was switch the male/ female ends so that someone can't plug it into an outlet.
Thanks for the tip.Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Sapper
The connector coming from my ATV is a quick connect and they worked well for me last year, so I will stick with them. I did find a quick connect fitting in my supply, that I will solder onto the pump’s wire.
If that does not work well for me, I will look at using your tip.
Gary
I got the vent pipe for the fan. I may shorten it up a little more.
I also picked up the 12x24x1.5 patio stone. It was around supper time when I got home and thought it would just take a couple of minutes to drill the holes. The first hole took me over a half hour to drill. It must have been some super fare concrete. I did not want to drill the second one and further disturb the neighbour’s around suppertime. I will drill the second hole tomorrow for the second handle. It fit perfectly and is likely 30%+ lighter than last year’s door. It cost me under $7 for the door unit.
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Tomorrow I will solder on the quick connect onto the pump and try the pump with some clean water, to make sure it works.
I found I can get your more recent pic psts, but not the earlier ones. Then I noticed on the ones I did get, that they expire on 9/12/22, must be when I tried earlier, they had expired. Must be your sharing approval expired on those. The more recent ones I can get on my windows computer and on my Android phone. Maybe you can make the link share longer, think about it, if it's an option.
Thanks, I will check that out.Quote:
Originally Posted by maple flats
I finished the door. The Concrete drilled a lot quicker in hammer mode, something I avoided yesterday because of the noise and it being supper time. I also attached the quick disconnect wire to the new pump and tested it and it all worked fine.
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The evaporator is basically done, with the exception of the base stack and pan. Right now I do not have a plan B if ever they were not built in time. The stack I would like before the snow flies, the pan could wait until February. I may just start looking for a plan B, but I am hopeful I will not need it.
Next tasks are getting new barrels, tanks, running string for the new lines and putting a connection pipe in the garage. And seeing if I can extend the expiry dates on the photos.
The expiry date is set for 30 days and cannot be changed. If someone wants to see a photo, I can always send a new link, which will last an additional 30 days. Another option would be to share an iCloud album, but that would show all photos and may not lead the viewer to the picture associated with the post.Quote:
Originally Posted by maple flats
Today, in light intermittent rain, I walked up the steep slope where I will have two new 3/16” lines. The bush was not overly thick, so the only challenges were stepping over fallen branches or trees. The forest is half Oak and half Maple. The Oak trees were quite large, the Maples for the most part were smaller than I expected and many fell within the 16” to 10” diameter range. There were a few larger ones.
I used twine to map my route and to determine how much line I would need. Walking up, stringing the line up as I went from Maple Tree to Maple tree, it went pretty well as expected and I had about 27 taps on that route. I still had twine left on my 500’ roll so I know one 500’ roll of tubing will do. I will double check that next week, just in case the odd Oak tree initially fooled me. Although on the ground it is easy walking, the tree canopy is full, with Maple and Oak leaves intermixed.
Coming back down, I had hoped to go to the right of the first line, as I wanted to avoid line of sight of the lines, from my friends place, but I just encountered Oak tree after Oak tree, so I had to start going left, and more left, before eventually working my way back to the collection point. My buddy will see some lines in the forest during the winter, but it should not be too bad. This time I ran out of twine and will need another 50 to 75 feet to make it to the collection barrel. I might be able to reduce that the next time I look at my choices.
So I will have two lines between 450 and 550’ long with 25 to 30 taps on each line, on a steep incline, with no flat spots. I will have a steep uninterrupted run to the collection barrels, to have a good “crux”, to power the natural vacuum . The sap should flow well on these lines.
This Saturday I will be buying two brand new 55 gallon drums for collection. They will be translucent in colour so I can see the sap levels, but also so that they do not stand out too much, as they will be about 20’ away from the road.
In the winter I will have to start walking the lines to make a path, because walking up the lines in waist deep snow, up the steep snow, with gear will be challenging. I will also have to dig out a path through the plow row, as it can be high and long.
My brother comes up Saturday and next week we will walk the lines, confirm that the trees I have wrapped around are maple and will mark them so when I go in late October, after deer season, so I do not get mistaken for a deer, I can identify the maple trees, in case the twine lines are down. We will also look to see if there are any better routes.