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Thread: Adding steel to a cinder block evaporator

  1. #31
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    Jul 2021
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    Parry Sound Area, Ontario
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    Quote Originally Posted by Super Sapper View Post
    You may want to add a little obstruction just before the stack to divert the heat to the outside so it does not short-circuit up the middle.
    Thanks, I would not have thought about that, I will do that.

  2. #32
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    Jul 2021
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    Parry Sound Area, Ontario
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    Today I hauled with my ATV and bush buggy trailer the sand, from a local pit, that I put on top of the concrete pad. I placed 3.5” of sand on top of the pad. I then placed the concrete blocks in their proper place. Tomorrow I have to cut to length the metal sides, the floor grate and the door, with my angle grinder. I have to find the right side block to slow the airflow to the stack. I am relying on a neighbour to cut a hole in a plate and add a collar for the top plate for the stove pipe, then I can do a trial boil.

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  3. #33
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    I'm enjoying reading about your progress. I wish I had been doing so much prep in the summer. I always seemed to decide (and often still do) on better ways to do things in January!

    What's the purpose of the sand? If you have a level, frost-free surface like a concrete pad to work on, use it. One of the benefits to getting into a sugar house for me was getting off of the ground. Earth wicks moisture no matter how much you try to protect it and it adds ice cold moisture to your firebox. The pad also makes shoveling ash out easier. Maybe consider using that sand as an additional fire barrier around the pad and build and burn right off of the concrete.

    Sean
    Woodville Maples
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    Around 300 taps on tubing, 25+ on buckets if I put them out
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  4. #34
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    Jul 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeanD View Post
    What's the purpose of the sand? If you have a level, frost-free surface like a concrete pad to work on, use it. One of the benefits to getting into a sugar house for me was getting off of the ground.
    I was worried the heat from the fire would hurt the concrete. The sand is to help protect the concrete. The sand is firm and contained. The whole area will be protected from any snow.

    Today I added the metal sides. I can remove them easily if I find that they are a negative. My hope is that help retain more heat and protect the cinder blocks somewhat. I also cut and placed the grill to fit. It sits on some smaller concrete blocks. I also cut the metal front door and added two wood handles to make it easy and safe to move.

    I have a little more sand to add in the “slope” area and I am now at the mercy of a neighbour to cut a hole in a metal plate and add a collar for the stove pipe. The distance from the front of the evaporator to the inside of the back wall is 5 feet. Does that mean that my stovepipe should be 10 feet tall?

    In September I will make the bones of a temporary sugar shack.

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  5. #35
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    Corbeil, ON
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    If you have enough sand you should fill the block cavities with sand. It will help hold the heat in the firebox.
    Once you test fire, you might want to try raising the grate closer to the pans to see how it increases the boil rate.
    2021 - Year one. 15 taps using 5/16" and drop tube into buckets. Homemade barrel evaporator with 2 steam trays. 4.7L syrup.

  6. #36
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    Mar 2008
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    Covington Twp. Pa.
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    I think you are going to have to lift your grate up a few inches. If not it will plug up with ashes and coals and the draft will not be able to come up from below your fire.
    2x3 Patrick Phaneuf pan
    Homemade arch
    100+ taps
    Sugar Shack in future
    Wife into it as much as me
    Also do homebrew

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  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z/MAN View Post
    I think you are going to have to lift your grate up a few inches. If not it will plug up with ashes and coals and the draft will not be able to come up from below your fire.
    Thanks, I will put another layer of blocks below it.

  8. #38
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    Jul 2021
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    Parry Sound Area, Ontario
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    A few questions about stove pipe for my evaporator.

    Is regular galvanized stove pipe (good to 1000°) okay to use?

    I can make the hole in my metal plate for the stove pipe, 6” or 8”. Are both good? Is one better?

    Can I use a 45° angle in the stove pipe run, or does it have to be dead straight?

    Thank you.

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