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Thread: Lapierre Vertical Electric Releaser Float String

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by NH Maplemaker View Post
    I ordered the HC 6100 and came yesterday. last night I just had play with it in a cup of water using a lamp as the pump! When the water hit both probes light came on green and my test light came on, but when I slowly removed one of the probes from the water the test light would go out instantly (not enough time for tank to empty ) My under standing is that the light should stay on until the other ( bottom ) probe no longer senses water! Why is mine shutting off as soon as it is removed from water? Any ideas ?
    Another question, probe wire are going to be to long ! Should there be a problem with shortening these wires ? Thank you for any help with these Questions .
    Did you get this working? I was looking at this and found these instructions requiring a ground. https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/me...stallation.pdf

    With recent marginal temps the float string has been freezing up with a ring of ice. I think due to venturi effect from the leak created by the hole where the float string goes through.

    Has anyone had to add a ground described?
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  2. #12
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    I installed the HC6000, it seems to work well. I removed the float and pipe inside the extractor which makes it easy to clean. I installed a deep well pump so grounding does not seem to be an issue. The only thing is you cannot turn the pump on when you want without plugging it in direct, not a huge deal.
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  3. #13
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    I never installed a ground haven't had any problems. The tube that the existing floats ran up and down I'd where I installed the high and low probes. This allows some protection from sap splashing and giving a false start up. As far as the plug in goes. What I also did was wired up a switched outlet. Plug it in one side and a light bulb on other side. Bulb is great so I can make sure it's on at quick glance. And also works to warm the pump house.
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  4. #14
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    Below is a post that a fellow trader posted on my thread. I thought in the interest of keeping information together for future reference, I copied it here to continue the discussion.

    If you have more trouble with the string you can use the HC6000 Hi Lo to operate the 120V coil of a double pole contactor. I used the one in the link for a Vacuum pump starter, for a little more $ you might be able to get a name brand like Siemens. It is simple to build in a little project box and keep it clean looking. Add a 120V plug to small gauge wire, plug into HC6000, terminate wires on the coil of the contactor. Then you can cut or add a break in your 220V pump wires and hook each side of your pump to the terminals on the contactor. Unlike if the string breaks, if this fails the pump is not going to run "usually" which may save your pump from burning up. Not sure if what I typed makes sense? With the aggravation of the string unit I had last year I figured I'd mention an option for 220V. This method is used often in industry when small control relays control large motor/loads.

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    Last edited by Amber Gold; 02-21-2019 at 08:10 AM.

  5. #15
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    Shaun, I think I get what you're getting at. Although I've learned a lot about electrical from sugaring, I'm not an electrician, so I want to make sure I understand the flow of things correctly.

    Install the contactor in an electrical enclosure.
    Plug the hi/lo switch into the wall (120V)
    Cut an extension cord for the male side of the plug with a pig tail.
    Wire the pig tale to the little terminals on the contactor.
    Connect the power supply to the power terminals on one side of the contactor
    Connect the the pump wires to the opposing side of the contactor.

    The contractor is normally closed, so the pump doesn't run unless there's a signal coming from the hi-lo switch. The signal comes in through the pigtail. Do I have this correct?

    Into the enclosure, could I also include a bypass switch to turn the pump on manually? Wire from the power supply side, switch, to pump side. I think that'd work.

    I think I'd be into this setup for $125-150. Much better than the $500 I was quoted.

    Thanks again Shaun.

  6. #16
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    Yes, sounds about right. I think if you had the parts in front of you it would make more sense. The contactor would be normally open (energize to close). You would need a double pole switch for the pump wires to add a on off switch and maybe some terminal blocks to keep it neat but I see no reason it would not work. Right now I just unplug from the plug that (piggybacks) into the HC6000 and plug it in direct which pumps out the sap if I need to empty it. Like I said I used this for a good part of last year and it worked great but cannot speak to longevity. The string float was a definite failure for me.

    Thanks for moving the thread, I posted on it last year when I had problems.
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  7. #17
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    Shun, yes I did get it up and running and as Parker said it works flawless. Ran it all last season without one heck up! I did end up calling the guy who was selling them. For some reason mine did need to have a ground for it to work, I also removed all the old float tube and float balls as you did and agree that it makes it much easier to clean ! I luv the unit and highly recommend it to anyone having a problem with the sting in there releaser.
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  8. #18
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    Thanks Shaun. I'll get the parts ordered up this weekend, and may try to install them next weekend if the sap's not running. We're heading into a cold snap, but not sure when we're coming out of it. I don't want to rock the boat if it's at least working off the string.

    Good point on unplugging the controller and plugging the pump directly into the outlet to manually power the pump on.

    Good to see there's a second vote of approval!

  9. #19
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    So, I have all the parts/pieces to put this together. It took a bit for them to come in. How did you set up the probes?

    My first thought was I'd drill hi and low holes in the side of the releaser, but now I"m thinking better of it. I'd like to run the system first to make sure I like and it works fine, and I'd like to set the sensors at different elevations until I find one I like. And then maybe drill in the side for the probes.

    I then thought I could drill one hole and feed both probes through and zip tie them inside the releaser. That's not going to work either because the probes are big.

    Looking for ideas. Thanks
    Last edited by Amber Gold; 03-08-2019 at 07:36 PM.

  10. #20
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    I just ended up drilling holes and using a dab of PVC glue to hold them. The probes are very repeatable. It turns on when the probe touches the sap and off when the other is exposed every time. I found the float string to do whatever it felt like at the time. As far as the grounding goes in the directions my pump is a deep well inside the releaser and it works fine(grounded). The releaser is somewhat homemade using a pitiless adapter and added another 12x36 booster for extra storage to limit the pump cycles.

    I guess you could cut the wire and make a splice outside of where it could be in sap,. You might keep track of polarity and maybe solder the wires for a good connection. That way you can drill the hole you mentioned. They make weather proof compression fittings for the wire entry. I used one for the pump wires and it leaks a tiny bit of air, less than the float string hole. I remember saying, boy I hope this works when I was drilling holes mid season... It still works great, although not much sap this year.
    Last edited by Shaun; 03-09-2019 at 05:01 AM.
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