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Thread: Filter Press Upgrade

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,773

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    I started with a 3 bank Lapierre filter press, later expanded to a 5 bank just by adding 2 sets of plates, both on a gear pump. Then a few years later I needed a new pump and I chose an air diaphragm pump, what a huge improvement, the only issue was the noise of the compressor. The first summer after using the compressor in the sugarhouse I , using my excavator, dug a trench from the sugarhouse to the shop, which is 80' away. In the trench I put conduit with wires to run 100A sub panel in the shop and I put a 3/4" black tubing, for air from the shop compressor to the sugarhouse. Because the shop sets about 2 ' higher than the sugarhouse, at the lowest spot just before the air lind goes up into the sugarhouse, I added a T, taking pointing down, then curving up with a 5/16" tube and a ball valve to bleed off moisture. After that T the 3/4" tubing goes up into the sugarhouse. If I'm using the air powered pump I just leave the compressor turned on and then use the main breaker to the shop to turn it on and off. Very handy and the compressor noise is 80' away, inside the shop.
    The Pneumatic pump I bought was Mfr #
    PD01P-HPS-PAA-A
    Zoro #
    G5384337
    It's rated for 225F and does very well, back when I bought it, I paid something like $349, now it shows at $405. The pump has performed flawlessly, I've had it for about 10 yrs. When I bought it I also ordered a spare membrane, I'm still on the first one, but I like having a spare just in case.
    In the sugarhouse just before the pump I have a reducing regulator to adjust the PSI and a small ball valve to operate the pump. My filter press suggests I keep the pressure at 40 PSI max, between the regulator and the ball valve it's easy to do. I have the regulator set at about 50psi, then as I use the filter I just adjust the air flow watching the pressure gauge in the filter press adjusting the ball valve.
    The air powered diaphragm pump is way better than a gear pump.
    Another thing I do with the pump, is that I use it to move syrup from my draw off tank, thru the pump and a bypass valve sends it to the finisher. I also have a T in the line between my finisher draw off tank and the pump with a valve before the Tee. I then close the valve from finisher draw off and U connect another hose near the pump at another Tee, and I pump from barrels to the finisher. And of course, the pump moves HOT syrup from the finisher draw off thru the filter and either into a barrel or into the bottler. Thus wherever I need to move syrup in the sugarhouse the pump does the work if it's not in a barrel, if it's in a barrel I use a 4 wheel barrel hand truck by Morse, a model 160 with the large wheels, in case I need to move a full barrel between the sugarhouse and the shop but only if the tractor isn't available. When I use the fractor I use barrel a lifter from Horthern tool, it has 2 chains , a central loop, and a clamp to grab the rim of the barrel on the end of each 2' or so chain, Actually I have 3 of thos lifters, I used to rent storage space less than 1/4 mile away, and at times I needed to carry 3 barrels at a time suspended below my loader bucket
    Dave Klish, I recently bought a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Walpole, NH
    Posts
    1,466

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    Quote Originally Posted by DRoseum View Post
    Awesome thanks for sharing - it looks like they confirmed it's not food grade or rated for the temp but CDL hasn't had any issues, but it voids the warranty.

    Tempting to try it. I may also experiment with a peristaltic pump like this: https://a.co/d/aRbqonq

    It's much lower flowrate but food grade and temp range is 176F. I'll keep you all posted if I try it and how it works.
    Where does it say that it’s food grade? It just says that it is used in the food industry.
    Sugaring for 45+ years
    New Sugarhouse 14'x32'
    New to Me Algier 2'x8' wood fired evaporator
    2022 added a used RB25 RO Bucket
    250 mostly Sugar Maples, 15% Soft Maples. Currently,(110on 3/16" and 125 on Shurflo 4008 vacuum, 15 gravity), (16,000 before being disabled)
    1947 Farmall H and Wagon with gathering tank
    2012 Kubota with forks to move wood around

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Murrysville, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    565

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    Which pump? The CDL Remco one is Not food grade - spec sheet says "not for potable water"

    The peristaltic pump uses a Tygon A-60-F tube which is food grade.
    Last edited by DRoseum; 04-17-2025 at 08:49 AM.
    D. Roseum
    www.roseummaple.com | https://youtube.com/@roseummaplesyrup
    ~136 taps on 3/16 custom temp controlled vacuum; shurflo vacuum #2; custom nat gas evap with auto-drawoff and tank level gas shut-off controller; homemade RO #1; homemade RO #2; SL SS filter press
    ~30 gallons / year

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central Minnesota
    Posts
    2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Pond Maple View Post
    https://bascommaple.com/products/1-2...84860b51&_ss=r
    I bought one of these this past winter and had to buy some stainless fittings to make it work. What a game changer over the hand pump
    Thanks for the info. That's pretty much what I was looking for. I appreciate all the help!

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