Modulating Auto Draw-off

[ennismaple]

We've been using the Electrogen auto-draw off for the last 15 years. It's reliable but it's time to go to a modulating auto draw-off to get a more consistent flow and less "slugging" of syrup through the front pans and more consistent Brix in the finished syrup tank. Every manufacturer has one in their catalogue so let's hear your opinions - good, bad and indifferent.

CDL
Lapierre
D&G
H20 Leader
LS Bilodeau
Other recommendations?

[Pdiamond]

I have the Smoky Lake Simplicity auto draw off system. Been using it for 9 years. I have only had the valve stick one time with niter build up, and a quick rinse with hot water fixed that. I had a fluctuation problem one year, that was my own fault. The wire for the probe got just a little to close to the arch and was getting hot, I caught it before any serious damage was done. Once it cooled off, I placed some electrical tape on that spot and now make sure that the wire is a long way from the arch.

[johnallin]

I've had an H2O EVEN-FLOW modulating and barometric automatic draw-off for 4 years now. No complaints at all.
Set it and you're done. Modulating feature is amazing as it will open anywhere from 5-100% and back depending on syrup temp.
I'd recommend taking a good look at it.

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

That's good to hear you are running it in your 2x6 John. What brix are you boiling at? What size valve is it, 1"?

[ecp]

I run the CDL modulating draw off so here is the good/bad on that brand. The good is that it works every **** time and it was cost friendly. The bad is you need to make sure the probe doesn't get caked up and start ups are rough (once you are used to it the first slug isn't that bad, but it still pissed me off). I don't think the controller is actually modulating-PID driven but rather changes the position of valve by about 8% every tenth of a degree above setpoint so you end up needing to set the setpoint (for me) 6 to 7 tenths of a degree below actual syrup. You still need to check is as the boil continues but there are not a ton of adjustments that you need to make once its set

In general, I hate the idea of Butterly valves because of the pipe restriction from the valve and the modulating flow rate is not as linier but it works. A ball valve would work better IMHO but I couldn't find that option in the size we needed at the time we received it.

Whatever you go with don't skimp on the size of the valve and make sure it is the same size as the port on your evaporator. All things considered I probably would have gone with H20's even flow with barometric compensation if price wasn't the issue.

[johnallin]

That's good to hear you are running it in your 2x6 John. What brix are you boiling at? What size valve is it, 1"?

Normal over here is 6-7%. Pretty sure it comes with a 1" valve but I'd have to look that up or go check the sugar house.
It's flawless as far as I'm concerned and adjusts draw-off temp automatically with changes in barometric pressure.

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

Good to know, thanks John. Would like try one as well on our 2x6 once we are boiling RO'd sap.

[Brian]

I have a Lapierre and love it. The only problem is they get sticky. I run a manual valve behind it to regulate the flow a little. When I run water through the front pan to clean it, I leave the auto draw off open and the water running through, cleans the niter out of it in good shape so it is ready for the next go.