Gravity set-up help

[Sinoed09]

Looking for some wisdom getting my lines set up for the spring. I experimented with one 3/16” line and a dozen taps a couple years ago, now I’m looking to expand to maybe 150 taps. I have a double row of sugar maples in between two farm fields. I don’t have equipment to plow out the 4’ of snow that ends up in the field to easily cross it and collect sap in the spring so I’d like to get the sap to the house via gravity. The trees sit on top of the Niagara escarpment which has a moderate drop of about 15’ over a length of 750’ sloping away from the crest of the ridge. Once you get past the top of the ridge, there is a huge drop of over 75’ down to the house and it’s roughly the same distance of 750’. Once it gets over the ridge it’s good - the trick is getting it there. I tried to upload a sketch but MT doesn’t seem to like it. So picture a row of trees lining the side of a field up to the edge of a sharp drop.

So my plan right now is to use 3/16” from the trees and laterals then run a couple 5/16” lines or maybe a 1/2” line down the hill to the house. I’d like to be able to attach the 1/2” right at the crest but I don’t think that will work? Do I have to run everything to the low spot farthest from the ridge and then try to run it back over the edge with the larger main? The drop over the edge is 5x greater than the slope of the field so I think it will work but I’m not entirely sure. This is the first time setting this run up. Do you think I’d need a pump at all?

Any help would be great. 😊

[maple flats]

Running that might work, but running 3/1 all the way would work positively, besides, gravity on that drop will give you the highest possible vacuum, based on your elevation and the barometric pressure. Run up to 30-35 max taps on each 3/16 line.
If you were to go to 5/16 or 1/2" the gravity will not generate any vcuum unless the tubeing is completely full. Getting either completely full is nearly impossible because of the gases that come out of the tree along with the sap.
On 3/16 the sap doesn't pass the gases thus gravity then generates a naturl vacuum.
Using 3/16 however requires you to watch for plugged fittings, especially in yrs 2 and beyond. however they can also happen in yr 1. Thus you will need to get across the field to walk the lines to be sure you don't have plugged fittings. On 3/16 fittings the holes at the barbed fittings are real small, thus the risk of plugging.
That being said, I do well using 3/16 laterals. I use 5/16 taps and drop lines then attach to the lateral using a 5/16 x 5/16 x 3/16 tee. I walk the lines every day and carry my repair tools, cutters and spare tees to replace any plugged tees.

[Sinoed09]

I didn’t think about running multiple 3/16 lines this time but the test line I originally ran was a 3/16 and the sap was just pouring out of it. The drop really helped with great natural vacuum, I thought I’d get the same with 5/16 but maybe not. You mentioned that you can’t get the lines completely full with 5/16” to generate vacuum which I think would mean I can’t try attaching the larger line at the crest of the ridge because there will be no vacuum to draw the sap from the low end - it would only run when the taps are running (I think).

I don’t mind walking across the field but it wouldn’t be a pleasant stroll with the amount of snow we get so I’m not sure daily is a good plan. Snow equipment or maybe an ATV might be needed if I decide to expand or keep doing it, these trees are the easy ones. I know for sure that I have to get the lines that run down the escarpment set up now although I could do the trees later. When I checked things after the snow melted last time I was shocked I didn’t break a leg or get hurt, the snow hid huge boulders, drops and a few large crevasse. I just got a large cement pad cleared off so now I have a place to set something up for boiling which is also good. Doing sap in the kitchen last time wasn’t a good plan. lol.