+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Champlain Valley Fair -- Oops!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    N.E.Ohio
    Posts
    247

    Default

    Haha!
    Think what you want buddy. Grand champion winner here of the most difficult contest in the nation and currently run the competition. Your assumption of others is childish and ignorant. To be proper legal maple syrup needs to be 66.0 or higher with ideal like I said is 66.7-67.0.


    Quote Originally Posted by BAP View Post
    So you want to make a watery product and cheat your customers to make more money? The reason standards are in place is to prevent that and make sure all producers sell uniform products.
    Seldom Seen Farm
    Montville Ohio.
    Seldomseenmaple.com

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Walpole, NH
    Posts
    1,385

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kh7722 View Post
    Haha!
    Think what you want buddy. Grand champion winner here of the most difficult contest in the nation and currently run the competition. Your assumption of others is childish and ignorant. To be proper legal maple syrup needs to be 66.0 or higher with ideal like I said is 66.7-67.0.
    Well, you may call me childish but your response in calling me childish says a lot about your integrity or lack there of when someone points out something about not cheating on quality. Obviously you are easily offended like many of the younger generation. Too bad for you. After making syrup for 50 years, I know how to make good syrup, what good syrup tastes like and what consumers like. If your market likes something different and you make what they like then great for you. Just don’t try to force that upon producers in other regions where they are making great products following standards set by the state that they are producing in. Obviously you don’t know much about how the maple world works around the country. Every state and Canada have their own set of regulations that producers must abide by in order to sell products to consumers.
    Sugaring for 45+ years
    New Sugarhouse 14'x32'
    New to Me Algier 2'x8' wood fired evaporator
    2022 added a used RB25 RO Bucket
    250 mostly Sugar Maples, 15% Soft Maples. Currently,(110on 3/16" and 125 on Shurflo 4008 vacuum, 15 gravity), (16,000 before being disabled)
    1947 Farmall H and Wagon with gathering tank
    2012 Kubota with forks to move wood around

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Location
    Essex Junction, VT
    Posts
    296

    Default

    Well, I submitted my syrup at the Champlain Valley Fair again today! I made sure to meet the Vermont standard (66.9 minimum) this time! I opened two of my pint jars of "rich" of the same batch and decanted them into one pint jar, and same with my favorite dark batch of the year. I tested the density of the rich with a hydrometer but was running out of time so I'm just keeping my fingers crossed for the dark! I mean, it should be good, I checked it when I made it. We'll see! I'll post my results even if they're bad.

    Sure is easier now that I know hot-packing is not required for the contest.

    I didn't have any light from 2024, though I only ran out of it a few weeks from a light batch from 2023. I only have one neighbor who wants light. I'll have to make sure to start 2025 with a very small batch to make sure it comes out light so I have something for her and perhaps for next year's fair.

    If anyone in the area wants to submit you can still do so tomorrow morning.
    2024: 28 taps, 7 gallons. RB5 purchased but not opened :-(
    2023: 30 taps, 17 trees, 11 properties, Sugar Maple & Norway. 2x3 flat over propane & kitchen finish. ~11(!) gallons.
    2022: 9 taps, 5 trees, 4 properties. 3 hotel pans on 3 Coleman 2-burner stoves burning gasoline; kitchen finish. ~3 gallons.
    2021: 2 taps, 1 sugar maple. Propane grill then kitchen finish. ~Pint.
    All years: mainly 5/16" drops into free supermarket frosting buckets. Some plastic sap buckets hanging on 5/16 sap-meister.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,659

    Default

    I'm in NY and since I believe I'm vcompeting with Vermont's reputation, I've always used 66.9 and I do it using a Murphy cup and Smoky Lakes gold hydrometer. That hydrometer has a red line on both the scale inside the stem and another on the glass. As long as those both line up you know it's accurate.
    However, if you get any hydrometer tested and it's accurate you can simply record the distance of the red line down in the stem from the very top and recheck that measurement at least once a year plus anytime the hydrometer might get dropped into the test cup. That's generally how a hydrometer gets off, the hydrometer hits the bottom in the hydrometer cup and the paper scale can move ever so slightly, then it happenes a few more times and the paper scale could have moved 1/8th of an inch or more, and it can't even come close to telling you the density of the syrup.
    Dave Klish, I recently bought a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Location
    Essex Junction, VT
    Posts
    296

    Default

    Wonder if you can knock the paper back the other way! (probably not, and probably not worth trying!)
    But my problem last year was more embarrassing than an out-of-calibration hydrometer. I mistakenly thought 66.0 was the minimum and 66.9 was the maximum (I think because I keep hearing about people always going for 66.9 and thinking that must mean 67.0 is out of spec). Nailed it, was at 66.7 last year, which of course was DQ'd... straight to the bottom shelf with all the moldy entrants. Now I know its 66.9 to 68.9 and I feel like I could drive a truck through that, though in fact I might be flirting with the high end now. Didn't have any crystals though, so hopefully not. I think I measured roughly 68 yesterday by quick measure on the one batch (wow you have to give it some time to stop sinking when it's cold!), and didn't measure the other one.

    Hoping for useful flavor feedback more than I'm hoping to win! Well, sort of. Winning would be cool.
    2024: 28 taps, 7 gallons. RB5 purchased but not opened :-(
    2023: 30 taps, 17 trees, 11 properties, Sugar Maple & Norway. 2x3 flat over propane & kitchen finish. ~11(!) gallons.
    2022: 9 taps, 5 trees, 4 properties. 3 hotel pans on 3 Coleman 2-burner stoves burning gasoline; kitchen finish. ~3 gallons.
    2021: 2 taps, 1 sugar maple. Propane grill then kitchen finish. ~Pint.
    All years: mainly 5/16" drops into free supermarket frosting buckets. Some plastic sap buckets hanging on 5/16 sap-meister.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Location
    Essex Junction, VT
    Posts
    296

    Default

    Well, shoot, I was thin again!
    A lot of improvements in an already great contest though... Now you get full flavor and other feedback even if you missed density. Great people from Proctor and from the sugarmakers association which I keep meaning to join and will at first chance.

    Here's what I got:
    My "amber rich" was good for color and clarity and flavor, but missed on density at 66.3 brix. Jeez. I think it must be my hydrometer but I'll be doing a study on that for sure. I measured 68 brix on my way to submit, and it was at room temperature from the basement. I didn't measure the temp, but it seemed no matter the temp (I think 60F min, 75 max) 68 should be somewhere in the spec, but nope!

    My "Dark" submission was also good for color and clarity, but was 66.4 brix, still too thin. But it missed on flavor as well, as I thought it might, and it was for "sour sap" which is super helpful as I wasn't sure if it was that or buddy or metabolism or burnt or something else. It still tastes pretty good; must be somewhat mild I would think. I've even brought it to neighbors to say "I actually don't like it, what do you think?" and they've all loved it. But I don't want off flavors. It also says "metallic... very slight". No clue where this would be coming from, but since it was slight I think I'll focus more on the sour sap.

    For sour sap, I'm thinking through the potential causes. I use cake frosting buckets from the supermarket as sap buckets at the trees, and at 2/3 season many do start to show a little bit of pink bacteria in the bottom. Maybe this type of bucket is prone to this and maybe one just must clean them out at least once per season or not use them. Another factor is that I sometimes went 3 days without collecting/boiling (but never longer), and although I'm a batch boiler I left sap in the pan for up to 3 days, outdoors, covered. On sunny days this worried me a bit. Also, although I'm a batch boiler I'm sort of continuous flow as well, in that my 2x3 pan is where I boil first, and I continuously add to it and continuously drain it into a hotel pan for further boiling. I never actually drained the 2x3. Maybe I need to be a more pure "batcher" as long as I have an undivided sap pan. And then it is also true that I kept the "nearup" in the fridge for a while sometimes before finishing it on the kitchen stove, although I'm pretty sure the off flavor was present before that fridge storage.

    I am interested in any thoughts!

    Back to the hydrometer... it seems like if the paper slid down, I'd end up with thicker syrup; am I thinking about that right? It may be that I'm just rushing it too much and not truly getting an accurate temperature measurement. I'm using a Murphy Cup but maybe I've still got to let it stabilize a bit more.... and of course I've got to make sure the cup is calibrated too. Also my non-Murphy cup is really tiny and maybe some kind of capillary action was keepign the hydrometer from sinking as much. Or, at room temp, it was viscous enough that I needed to give it 5 more minutes to fully sink.
    Last edited by Andy VT; 08-25-2024 at 02:07 PM.
    2024: 28 taps, 7 gallons. RB5 purchased but not opened :-(
    2023: 30 taps, 17 trees, 11 properties, Sugar Maple & Norway. 2x3 flat over propane & kitchen finish. ~11(!) gallons.
    2022: 9 taps, 5 trees, 4 properties. 3 hotel pans on 3 Coleman 2-burner stoves burning gasoline; kitchen finish. ~3 gallons.
    2021: 2 taps, 1 sugar maple. Propane grill then kitchen finish. ~Pint.
    All years: mainly 5/16" drops into free supermarket frosting buckets. Some plastic sap buckets hanging on 5/16 sap-meister.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,659

    Default

    No, if the paper slides down it reads higher than it really is. The higher density numbers are lower on the hydrometer stem thus if the paper slides you show higher than it really is.
    Two ways around that. Get a Smoky Lake gold hydrometer with a red line on the paper and the glass and they must line up, or get your hydrometer or a new one tested and then record the exact distance of the red line below the top of the hydrometer stem, then record it where you can refer back to the reading. Then if the hydrometer drops too hard into the test cup you will see that the red line moved. I haven't heard of anyone getting the red line to move back to where it should be, but it might be worth a try once you know where it should be.
    Dave Klish, I recently bought a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Nashville, MI
    Posts
    965

    Default

    I always make sure to warm up my murphy cup with syrup before taking an actual reading.
    2004 - 2012 2x3 flat pan 25 to 60 taps
    2012 2x3 new divided pan w/draw off 55 taps
    2018 - didn't boil surgery - bought new evaporator
    2019 new SML 2x4 raised flue high output evap. 65 taps
    made 17 gal. syrup
    2020 - only put out 53 taps - made 16.25 ga.l syrup
    2021 - Didn't work out
    2022 - 25 taps on bags / 8 taps on 3/16's line - late start

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,659

    Default

    I also warm the Murphy cup, I fill it with hot syrup, then dump it back in with the rest, and repeat at least once more, most times 2x more, on the 3rd or 4th filling I gently lower the hydrometer in the cup then compare the readings, what Murphy says and what the hydrometer reads. I adjust as needed until they both agree or the density is .1 or .2 thicker. If more than that I add distilled water which I always keep on hand. I far prefer that to adding sap, however I do sometimes add permeate.
    As a rule I boil to slightly over density, then bring it back down using distilled water, that takes far less time than getting it thicker.
    I have a lid on my bottler, and on very rare occasion I test the sdensity and it's slightly thin, like .1 or maybe .2. In that case I dump condensate off from the underside of the lid. Once or twice doing that brings the density up quite well, but again, I far prefer needing to bring the density down a little. Yes, 68.3 is acceptable, but my thinning adds distilled water at $1.29 a gal currently makes that volume of water into syrup at far more per gallon. While I don't even sell gallons, I do sell lots of half gallons and all sizes from there on down to half pints. I don't do smaller except for wedding favors when ordered. As a matter of fact my youngest daughter filled 50ML maple leaf bottles as her wedding favors back about 16 yrs ago. She insisted she fill them herself, which she did.
    Dave Klish, I recently bought a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lanark, ON
    Posts
    2,398

    Default

    I've helped "manage" the judging for a local competition for the past two years with a different, experienced judge each year. What I've learned is thicker syrup scores better. The standardized IMSI judging has 30 marks for density - with full marks between 66.5 Brix and 67.5 Brix. You only lose 5 marks from 67.5 to 68 Brix. Best flavour in the class gets 40 marks with every spot below 5 points less (35 for 2nd, 30 for 3rd and so on...) so flavour is often the deciding factor when it comes to who wins and who misses the podium. Thicker syrups are almost always judged higher for flavour. My goal is to aim for 67.3 when entering a contest and be right in the middle of the colour class. To decide between 2 entries I'll pick the one that may be off a little on density but has superior flavour.
    4,600 Taps on vacuum
    9,400 gallons storage
    3 tower CDL RO
    3.5'x14' Lapierre Force 5
    Twitter & Instagram: @ennismaple
    www.ennismaple.com

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts