Most of my barrels are 26.5 gal but sometimes I do a 40 gal. I use a silicone barrel heater band to get it warm enough to pump easily, then I pump it to my finisher. The finisher then heats it on low flame (propane fired) to about 170-175. I then send it thru my filter press again (I always filter as I fill a drum). I just like the extra assurance to have it sparkle. Then it is pumped to the WJ bottler. I do batches in the bottler up to about 15-16 gal batches. The bottler brings it to 185-187 , I recheck grade and density, adjust density if needed, then I bottle. When the bottler is down so the thermometer probe is out of the syrup, I bring the remaining syrup up to the 170-175 again and filter it. That finishes a 26.5 gal bbl, a 40 needs 3 batches. On each batch I verify density again because having it warm in the finisher changes the density and also because when I pack a barrel I often don't recheck density, my auto draw set point is according to my Marcland boil meter, which gives me a very close density, often .1 or .2 high.
I used to heat it back up in the finisher to 205-210 like I do when I filter as I fill a barrel, but I found that can darken the syrup quite a lot, enough to lose 5-10% light transmission and result in a darker grade. I sell dark very well, but very dark not much.
Last edited by maple flats; 03-03-2020 at 07:53 PM.
Dave Klish, I recently bought a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.