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Thread: 2017 Arch Build w/Smoky Lake Hybrid Pan

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Ferrisburgh, Vermont
    Posts
    29

    Default 2017 Arch Build w/Smoky Lake Hybrid Pan

    Well folks,

    Sharing with the group photos of my recent arch build. Design foundations from the old Davy Jones plans. I modified them with my own dimensions and features - such as the air tight door and sliding ash doors. I tested and designed a new air induction system into the combustion chamber. It hosts air under fire through the ash pan and also air over fire through two air ducts. So far, I have had amazing results with the arch, which seems to complement the amazing SmokyLake 2 by 4 hybrid pan. I have other photos if anyone would like to see them.

    Happy sugaring.


    Arch top view 2017.jpgArch door frame 2017.jpgArch sides installed 2017.jpgArch air ducts 2017.jpgAssembled arch 2017.jpg
    Last edited by ACollette; 03-09-2017 at 08:19 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Ferrisburgh, Vermont
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Here are some photos of the rig in operation.

    Arch boil 2017.jpgArch front view 2017.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Catskill Mts, Ulster County NY
    Posts
    605

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    Looks very good. Have you measured your gph?
    Gary / Zena Crossroads / 42˚ 00' 24" N / Hobby in Early '70s, Addiction since 2014

    175+ taps on 3/16 (60 of which are on two Lunchbox Vac/Releasers)
    12x34 timber framed sap house w/attached 10x34 shed roof for storage
    2 x 6 Smoky Lake hybrid pan on Corsair arch with AUF/steam hood/preheater/concentric exhaust
    7.0 KW Sun Power PV System, Smokey Lake Filter Press/Steam Bottler, Modified NGMP RO - 2 4x40 posts 200 gph

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Ferrisburgh, Vermont
    Posts
    29

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    Not officially yet... I have been dealing with fluxuations in weather here in Vermont so I haven't had an abundance of sap to run through it. To date I have run over 90 gallons of sap into it and boiled about 4 hours...I estimate that there is about 12 gallons of sap in the pan (2" depth)...So in theory, I'm around 19.5 gph. I would hate to truly advertise that as being 100% accurate with so little experience. I would be glad to share my data after I run some more through it...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Warren, MA
    Posts
    270

    Default

    Looks awesome!
    2016 - 2 x 4 Randy Worthen built arch and pans 11 taps; 2.625 gallons of syrup!
    2017 - 29 taps; 11.625 gallons of syrup!
    2018 - 30 taps; 98 pints bottled! New sugar house being built, new equipment coming!
    2019 - 125 taps; 50 gallons made! New 2x6 Smoky Lake Corsair arch, drop flue pan, auto draw. Smoky Lake filter press and Steam Bottler
    2020 - 173 taps; only 35 gallons made.
    2021 - 242 taps; New record! 50.5 gallons made!
    2022 - 321 taps; New record! 80 gallons made!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Berwick, ME
    Posts
    64

    Default

    I have a 2x4 Smoky Lake Hybrid pan also. It sits on a funky oil drum set up that I put together. I have AUF only. If I keep it stoked up with good dry wood and run the depth at about 1 in., I max out at about 20 gph.
    2015 - 40 buckets w/ drop lines
    275 oil tank evaporator
    2x4 flat pan
    made 5 gallons!
    2016 - 90 buckets
    same evaporator and pan
    hoping to make 12 gallons
    2017 - 85 taps on vacuum w/lunchbox
    50 buckets
    Smoky Lake 2X4 drop flue pan

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    West Redding CT
    Posts
    51

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    Looks great ACollette!!! I also have the Smoky Lake 2'x4' Hobby Hybrid Pan. I currently have it on a homemade oil tank arch we used last year for the old flat single batch pan we have. I currently can't get the Smoky Lake Pan to a full boil in the back of the sap pan sections. I think my issue is the fire box is too short and not deep enough. Has a 6" smoke stack that comes out the back wall with an elbow and it restricts the air flow. I just got a controller for a blower I have that was way to big without being able to throttle it down. I think that will help my current issue since I can't really rebuild the oil tank arch right now.

    I am currently working on design plans for a new oil tank arch build for next season. Going to start building it once this season is over, cleaned up everything, and split lots of wood. I have a couple of Q's.
    I attached a copy of my plans, still work in progress, but would appreciate any pointers. I plan on having a blower in the back with a 4" air pipe that comes into the back of the firebox and blows under the fire grate.
    Question 1: How far/ long and deep should the firebox??
    I think in my plans the firebox is too long because the previous one was too small.
    Question 2: Would it be better to have the air blow from the front and not the back??
    Question 3: Should I have the back wall of the firebox slope up??
    Thank you in advance. ~Stiets

    Oil Tank -Model.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Stiets; 03-14-2017 at 10:15 AM. Reason: New plan with grate and blower pipe

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Ferrisburgh, Vermont
    Posts
    29

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    Stiets, 1). My fire box is 32" from the front wall to the rear wall. The fire box depth is 26" from the bottom floor of the ash pan to the top rails. My arch grates are about 10" above the floor of the ash pan. The arch is 26" wide to the outside of the top rails, which gives me great surface area on my pan. 2). I don't know if you can tell, but my air is entering through the rear through my ash pan wall. I place fire brick perpendicular to the air flow in the ash pan, this diverts the air flow upward under my fuel. In addition, I ran square tube from the rear blower up into the top of the fire box. This does two things: it adds turbulance to the upper level of the fire box, getting a more complete burn of unburned fuel gases, because it introduces more oxygen, and secondly, these square tubes protect the bottom of my drop flues from any rogue firewood that gets tossed into the fire box... they have been very valuable. 3). As far as the sloped firebox... it may be useful. With no slope, I do have an area of increased boil at the intersection of the rear of my firebox wall on the drop flues, but it causes me no detrement. My previous arch had a sloped rear wall but I elected not to do it with this one for the simplicity of square cuts on the sidewall metal sheets. I have run several hundred gallons of sap through the arch so far this season and I cannot be happier. I continue to average around 19 gph... the SmokyLake Hybrid is everything I hoped it would be and more. I cannot believe that I worked so hard to boil sap on my old rig... I would be glad to share photos of the build with you. Send me a Pm.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Ferrisburgh, Vermont
    Posts
    29

    Default

    IMG_9586.jpgIMG_9549.jpgIMG_9551.jpg More photos to share!

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