Hey everyone. I am looking to build a 2x6 arch for next year. I was wondering what you guys have used for thickness of angle iron and steel for the sides. If anyone has any pictures or designs that would be much appreciated!
Hey everyone. I am looking to build a 2x6 arch for next year. I was wondering what you guys have used for thickness of angle iron and steel for the sides. If anyone has any pictures or designs that would be much appreciated!
2014-2017:3-300 taps, homemade evaporator
2018: Planned 1500+ taps , 3x12 evaporator, 16x24 sugarhouse
I'm also planning the same - but smaller, a 2x3 or 2x4. From the reading I have done on this site it seems the minimum to use is 1-1/4 x 1/8 angle. Seems most people are using 1-1/2 (may also be more common). 1/4" thick seems overkill, so seems 3/16" is a great compromise.
People are using anything from 10 ga to 20 ga. I'm planning to use 18 ga but I think I can get a good deal on 14 ga. Ignoring firebrick the sheet metal weight can add up quickly which is important for my design which I will move/store each season.
I hope to post my plans for review soon.
2021 - 15 taps
2020 - 20 taps, 2 gallons syrup
2016 - 25 taps, 2.1 gallons syrup
2014 - 14 taps, 1.1 gallons syrup
Don't skip the fire brick it will help keep the heat off your legs.
Last edited by Burnt sap; 03-11-2016 at 02:41 PM.
Tap'em if ya got'em.
Pyro /mr.red maple
try this thread from Brian Kloepfer , has dimensions and everything.
copied it for a 2x3 I used 2x2x1/4 for the fire box because thats what was the cheapest
for me but other have used 1 1/2 x1 1/2 x 1/8 make sure to insulate and firebrick it
I used 1 inch ceramic wool and split firebrick and it still get hot !
http://mapletrader.com/community/sho...-homemade-arch
Last edited by BobMac; 03-11-2016 at 06:07 PM.
I wouldn't use anything thinner than 3/16" angle. My homemade arch is framed and has legs that 1/4". If theres any chance of larger pans down the road and stretching the arch is needed 1/4" will add strength. Grates, bricks and pans full of sap and syrup all add up to a lot weight. And sturdy framing will help prevent any "tweaking" that might happen from moving each season. The insulation is a must. That will protect the sides from burning/rusting out. The bricks are needed to protect the insulation when firing. My bricks are not cemented in for moving purposes and they don't crack being allowed to "move" a little bit.
Good luck with the build.
2014 Upgrades!: 24x40 sugarhouse & 30"x10' Lapierre welded pans, wood fired w/ forced draft, homemade hood & preheater
400 taps- half on gravity 5/16, half on gravity 3/16
Airablo R.O. machine - in the house basement!
Ford F-350 4x4 sap gatherer
An assortment of barrels, cage tanks & bulk tanks- with one operational for cooling/holding concentrate
And a few puzzled neighbors...
http://s606.photobucket.com/albums/t...uckethead1920/
I've got a bunch of house water/steam radiators if you're gonna need grates. I'm in north-central MA.
I used all 2x2x3/16 angle on my build
http://mapletrader.com/community/sho...2x5+arch+build
I think this is a link to pics of what I built if it helps
I used 2x2x3/16. I would not go with 1/8" as the firebox heat is pretty severe and I've seen warping and twisting of a previous arch of my neighbors with 1/8" steel.
Chad
2014: 12 taps, 5 gal buckets
2015: 15 taps on bags
2016: 150 taps: 100 on bags, 50 on 3/16" natural vac, 2x8 AUF/AOF Homebuilt Arch, 2x8 SL Drop Flu & Auto Draw, SL Propane Canner/Bottler
2017: 225 taps: Built Lean to, Added SL hood, preheater, concentric exhaust, SL SS 7" SB Filter Press
2018: 180 taps: Added Shurflo to 50 - 3/16", Auto fill sensor to head tank
2019: No tapping
2020: 175 taps
2021: 300 taps, homemade RO and releaser
2022: 600+ taps