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Thread: Arch Build!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Bow NH
    Posts
    29

    Default Arch Build!

    This is my first endeavor into building an arch. Pans purchased off of craigslist, the front has dividers and the rear raised flue. Both were home built previously so I really don't know their specs. Built the arch to fit out of 2x2 3/16" angle and sheet steel for the skins. The arch is lined in concrete to save money over bricking and so far, so good after 3 test burns to play with the internal setup. On the 3rd burn I was able to get both pans boiling with little effort. I did make it possible to add a blower in the rear and will consider once the season starts easily.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Lisbon, NH
    Posts
    385

    Default

    Did you line it with concrete board or did you form it and pour regular concrete? Looks good, are you going to batch boil or did you get a continuous pan?
    Pete Nightingale
    Lisbon, NH

    3 Teenage sap haulers & Plenty of friends and family to restock the beer fridge
    2012 1 tap and a pot
    2013 10 taps, oil tank evap, 2 gallons of slightly too thin syrup
    2014 48 taps improved oil tank evap 3.5 gallons, ouch??
    2015 88 taps 78 5/16" and 10 3/16" nat vac 40"x 48" Homemade Arch 13.25 Gallons
    2016 100 taps 65 on 3/16 & 35 buckets 17 gallons + unknown amount of maple / Jack Daniels testers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Bow NH
    Posts
    29

    Default

    I lined it with regular concrete, rotating it so the area I'm lining was flat down. I plan on continuous, the rear pan will hold about 10-15 gals of sap, the front with dividers will hold about 10. I need to make a syphon from the rear to the front.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Will the concrete hold up to the heat when you get it really rolling? How will you make a syphon from the rear to front pan? I'm no expert (really a beginner) but I would think a float box, but I'm here to learn.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Bow NH
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Yes the concrete will hold up. The first fire I did I got a bit over zealous and started a fire too hot and it did spall a bit in the fire box. The 2nd I started small and held it for awhile to allow the concrete to warm up a bit. The 3rd no issues at all. The syphon will be with copper pipe and ball valve, manual. Once filled it will work fine, used it last year on my block arch.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,094

    Default

    Looks good but you will have trouble keeping heat in the back corners of your flue pan with you stack base flat like that. The heat will short circuit to the center to go up the stack. Most bases are tapered to avoid this. As far as the concrete, I would think that after it is going for awhile you will have some problems because it is not made to handle the heat. The only way to know for sure is to try, that is how we all learn. Good luck with it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Bow NH
    Posts
    29

    Default

    I thought about the stack and the flat end, inside is a length of angle iron which forces the gasses up into the flue pan and to the sides, flattening out the exhaust. We'll see how it works. If it seem like I need a wider and tapered exaust that'll be next seasons build.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,094

    Default

    That's part of the fun with this hobby, you can keep trying new things to see what works best for you. This site greatly shortens the learning curve with the wealth of knowledge everyone shares.

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