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Thread: best way to reheat syrup?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    minnesota ( Finland)
    Posts
    155

    Default best way to reheat syrup?

    I am looking for a better way to reheat my syrup before bottling. Right now I have a 22 gallon pan on a bayou classic KAB6(210,000 btu) heater, It heats up the syrup pretty quick but cooks me out, my bottling room gets over 100F. How do you other producers reheat your syrup before it goes into the filter press and then to the water jacketed canner? Could I use a heating element like what is in the water jacket canner to heat the syrup or would it burn on the heating element? Thanks for the help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Tomahawk WI.
    Posts
    502

    Default Building a better mouse trap

    I have a raised stand with a 30 gallon round heating tank with a valve, Under this tank, i use just a simple weed burner torch about 4 inches from the bottom that i can regulate with the valve of a 20 pound lp cylinder. The output valve on the heating tank is just a tad higher then my bottle unit. Tis set up works good but, My next idea to try is..... I have a outdoor wood furnace that heats my house and also my bottling room with a modine. so i would like to try a stainless steel cylinder vessel that stands upright in the middle of the 30 gal. heating tank, with diverter valves from my hot water hoses from my modine to the stainless vessel. That way in the evening i could fill up the heating tank with 30 gallons of syrup, and divert the hot water through the vessel to heat the syrup, and by morning, (hopefully with good heat transfer) i could wake up to syrup that was already 170 degrees or so, This would save alot of time and lp gas to bring it up the last 30 degrees. I would have the input and the output of the hot water hoses all hooked up outside of the heating tank to make sure no contamination of outdoor furnace water could ever leak into the heating tank. I would have a stainless 1" pipe tig welded into the bottom of the vessel, and a 90 degree elbow with a stainless extension pipe that brings it up past the top of the heating tank, then another 90 degree elbow with a extension pipe to bring it past the top and off to the side, to a pex nipple that the hoses can attach to. (this would be the input of the hot water), The output end is simply a 90 degree elbow tig welded, out the top of the vessel , with a extension pipe, to a pex hose nipple away from the tank also. Should work pretty good. I think for the vessel i will use a 3" diameter stainless pipe.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bristol, VT
    Posts
    1,978

    Default

    The slickest way I have seen to date for reheating syrup is using a stainless steel flat plate heat exchanger. The heating fluid (water I believe) is heated in a small propane boiler and circulated through the flat plate and syrup is gravity fed through the flat plate and flash heated to 180F then bottled. Super efficient as you are only heating a small quantity of syrup as it passes through the flat plate.

    Timeeh, who is a member here, uses this technique.
    About 750 taps on High Vac.
    2.5 x 8 Intens-O-Fire
    Airtech 3 hp LR Pump
    Springtech Elite 500 RO
    14 x 24 Timber Frame SugarHouse
    16 x 22 Sap Shed w/ 1500 gal. + 700 gal. tanks
    www.littlehogbackfarm.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Canterbury, NH
    Posts
    149

    Default

    Yes GeneralStark visited here and checked out my syrup heater. We keep our barrels of syrup at 45 degrees during the summer and around 32 degrees in the winter. We use a munchkin gas fired boiler that has an variable BTU output burner it matches the firepower to the demand to keep the water in the boiler at a preset temperature. It's max output i think is 140k BTU. We pump syrup into a 5 gallon reservoir that gravity feeds a flat plate heat exchanger. That drains into a foot operated jug filling valve that overflows into a bucket when the jug is full. We can heat and fill syrup at 1.5 gallons per minute. The heat exchanger holds 3 pints of syrup and the boiler holds 3 gallons of water. It comes up to temperature (188 degrees) in two or three minutes. It makes it easy to can two gallons or 200 gallons with the same start up time. If we want to take a break, just put the boiler in standby and come back later to finish canning. There is no water lost to evaporation and no niter created from heating the syrup. If the syrup coming out of the barrels is clear enough to put into glass containers we go right to filling them without refiltering. (we do take pains to be sure the syrup is crystal clear when it goes into the barrels for storage). The gentle heat from the hot water compared to a flame under a pan or tank prevents niter formation. When it's time to shut down we turn off the boiler, put a cover on the syrup reservoir and remove the syrup filling valve so the heat exchanger can drain. The hot syurp inside the heat exchanger steams up the inside of the reservoir, condenses and runs back down through the heat exchanger and rinses the remaining syrup out. A quick rinse with water and it is ready to use again. We add food grade anti freeze to the boiler water and leave the canning room unheated when we aren't using it. If we have barrels that need to be refiltered we pump the syrup through the heater set to 195 degrees and through a filter press into a clean barrel. Two things you can do with tank or a finishing unit that is harder for us to do is to blend different grades of syrup as you can and adjust density by additional boiling or adding water. We just make sure the syrup is as it should be when we fill the barrels at the sugar house.
    http://www.northfamilyfarm.com

    Tim
    2,500 taps on two pipelines
    Busch Vacuum Pump
    MES Three Phase Three Post RO
    2X10 Leader Vortex Max Flue pan, Enhanced Steamaway
    Electricity made with wind and solar

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,547

    Default

    Tell me more about the flat plate heat exchanger and the boiler please. Any pictures. I don't see it in you web site pics.
    That sounds like a super way to bottle syrup.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Barnet, VT
    Posts
    2,580

    Default

    I don't know if he still uses it but Glenn Goodrich had a pipe in a pipe exchanger using his wood boiler. I think it was 1" inside 1.5". About 30' long overall. One 20 and a 10 coming back. No connections on inside pipe to assure no contamination issues.
    William
    950 taps
    3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian Arch
    CDL 600 expandable

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Canterbury, NH
    Posts
    149

    Default

    I'll make a short video that shows what how it all works together and name the brands of the parts and pieces. I'll post it here as soon as I can.
    http://www.northfamilyfarm.com

    Tim
    2,500 taps on two pipelines
    Busch Vacuum Pump
    MES Three Phase Three Post RO
    2X10 Leader Vortex Max Flue pan, Enhanced Steamaway
    Electricity made with wind and solar

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,547

    Default

    That would be great. Thanks.
    Dave
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Canterbury, NH
    Posts
    149

    Default

    Here's a link to the video I promised.. Hope it helps.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfOROngOfQ0

    Also here is the description of the system that I posted before.

    Yes GeneralStark visited here and checked out my syrup heater. We keep our barrels of syrup at 45 degrees during the summer and around 32 degrees in the winter. We use a munchkin gas fired boiler that has an variable BTU output burner it matches the firepower to the demand to keep the water in the boiler at a preset temperature. It's max output i think is 140k BTU. We pump syrup into a 5 gallon reservoir that gravity feeds a flat plate heat exchanger. That drains into a foot operated jug filling valve that overflows into a bucket when the jug is full. We can heat and fill syrup at 1.5 gallons per minute. The heat exchanger holds 3 pints of syrup and the boiler holds 3 gallons of water. It comes up to temperature (188 degrees) in two or three minutes. It makes it easy to can two gallons or 200 gallons with the same start up time. If we want to take a break, just put the boiler in standby and come back later to finish canning. There is no water lost to evaporation and no niter created from heating the syrup. If the syrup coming out of the barrels is clear enough to put into glass containers we go right to filling them without refiltering. (we do take pains to be sure the syrup is crystal clear when it goes into the barrels for storage). The gentle heat from the hot water compared to a flame under a pan or tank prevents niter formation. When it's time to shut down we turn off the boiler, put a cover on the syrup reservoir and remove the syrup filling valve so the heat exchanger can drain. The hot syurp inside the heat exchanger steams up the inside of the reservoir, condenses and runs back down through the heat exchanger and rinses the remaining syrup out. A quick rinse with water and it is ready to use again. We add food grade anti freeze to the boiler water and leave the canning room unheated when we aren't using it. If we have barrels that need to be refiltered we pump the syrup through the heater set to 195 degrees and through a filter press into a clean barrel. Two things you can do with tank or a finishing unit that is harder for us to do is to blend different grades of syrup as you can and adjust density by additional boiling or adding water. We just make sure the syrup is as it should be when we fill the barrels at the sugar house.
    http://www.northfamilyfarm.com

    Tim
    2,500 taps on two pipelines
    Busch Vacuum Pump
    MES Three Phase Three Post RO
    2X10 Leader Vortex Max Flue pan, Enhanced Steamaway
    Electricity made with wind and solar

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    824

    Default

    That is a great video thanks a bunch do you think this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/FPHE-Flat-Pl...item4170655e7b would work. Thanks

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