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Thread: Drop Flue Pan

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Green County Kentucky
    Posts
    146

    Default Drop Flue Pan

    I,m getting ready to build me a new arch but I am having trouble trying to get someone local that can bend the flue pan. Those narrow channels pose a big problem for most machine shops. As far as making the syrup pan and the rest, it's easy going. I'm really wanting a 2'X4' drop flue pan with 8-12, 6"-8" flues(channels). Any ideas on how to come up with one? Or how to bend it?

    Dave

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Whately, Ma.
    Posts
    2,856

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    I know you probably want to make your own but have you looked at used ones? I would think if you are paying someone (fab shop) and they don't make them every day it will end up costing more than finding one already made.
    But if you do want to have one made then I'd keep looking around because the more flues you have the more surface area and higher boiling rates with out using any more wood. you are on the right track with the amount of flues you want. 3/4" to 1" is the space you should have between them
    Keith

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Green County Kentucky
    Posts
    146

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    I wouldn't mind a good used one if the price was reasonable. One real big problem with living in central KY, there are not any used pans within a few hundred miles. I don't think the price to have the flues bent will be too bad if I can find some one to do it. I can fab the ends and TIG it myself. I've been looking for several weeks on the Internet for a good used flue pan and haven't ran across one, but I haven't given up yet.

    Dave

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Albion PA
    Posts
    3,071

    Default

    Dave,
    Big Eddy made a brake to bend flues. Search for it on here.
    Regards,
    Chris
    Casbohm Maple and Honey
    600 taps
    3x10 King, WRU & preheater, AOF [TRS] and AUF
    2009 Ford F250 sap hauler
    Four hives of bees
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    Too many Cub Cadets
    Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's

    www.mapleandhoney.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Green County Kentucky
    Posts
    146

    Default

    Thanks for the information; the wheels are turning now. His brake was to simple, I'll have one built fairly quick.

    Dave

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Frankford, Ontario
    Posts
    532

    Default

    I have made a flue pan too - it's on here somewhere as well. Sometime I'll need to post pictures of how I bent up my syrup pan with 8" sides using the same brake with a twist.
    Big_Eddy
    Eastern Ontario (Quinte)
    75 acres maples.
    ~150 buckets a year
    20+ years on a 2x3 block arch,
    Homemade 20"x64" drop flue since 2011

    How to build a Block Arch
    How to build a Flat Pan
    How to build a Flue Pan
    How to build a Bending Brake
    How to use a Hydrotherm
    How much Sap to Sweeten

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Green County Kentucky
    Posts
    146

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    Big Eddy
    I have been looking at your brake trying to get a good idea on how it works. Looking at your pictures it does exactly what I need. I'm a little confused though on how it works. Form the first set of pictures you show the scrap metal that you were practicing on sliding in through the back. I can understand how it bends the first bend up, much like a regular brake. But then in a later photo where you are actually fabricating the flue pan you have the SS metal in vertically. That is where I am confused.
    Dave

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Shinglehouse Pa
    Posts
    337

    Default

    Maybe you can look into an amish made pan and just weld it yourself. I know a few people that have done that around here. Attached is a local price list. Might be worth asking.

    Jason
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Frankford, Ontario
    Posts
    532

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by afretired View Post
    Big Eddy
    I have been looking at your brake trying to get a good idea on how it works. Looking at your pictures it does exactly what I need. I'm a little confused though on how it works. Form the first set of pictures you show the scrap metal that you were practicing on sliding in through the back. I can understand how it bends the first bend up, much like a regular brake. But then in a later photo where you are actually fabricating the flue pan you have the SS metal in vertically. That is where I am confused.
    Dave

    Dave.
    I folded an "accordian" shape. flat - down - flat - up - flat down ..... Every second bend I had to flip the sheet over. I bent all the flues first, then bent up the outside edges for the sides. I used a 4x8 sheet and the 8' made a ~ 18" wide pan with 6@5" drop flues and 9" sides

    At all times - the long (unbent) end was to the front - so we were bending the long end up each time we operated the brake. (7' at the start - was hitting the ceiling)

    To start, I had the sheet upside down with 12" into the brake (9"sides plus 3" flat before the first flue) I bent the material up for the drop of the first flue. Took it out of the brake and turned it over and made a second bend 5" from the first. Kept it in and brought the long portion of the sheet back level, pushed it back 1" and bent it again to form the bottom of the flue. Pulled it out, flipped it over adjusted 5" and bent it again. Brought it level, adjust 1", bend, then flip and repeat. For the second and future flue bottoms / tops, we had the previous flue down and spread over the bed of the brake from the rear (Hence the reason no bracing on the underside of the brake - a tradeoff between stiffness and access.) Once you got the pattern it was easy.

    When I first built the brake - I used a piece of angle for the hold down. Once I got using it, I replaced that with a piece of 3/4" x 2" (2" vertical) with a 1" flat bar welded on the base. I needed the narrow hold down to get down in the bottom of the flues. Also - it needed to come off and on easily - not just lift slightly - once each flue was formed it needed to come off to remove the sheet.

    Hope this helps.
    Big_Eddy
    Eastern Ontario (Quinte)
    75 acres maples.
    ~150 buckets a year
    20+ years on a 2x3 block arch,
    Homemade 20"x64" drop flue since 2011

    How to build a Block Arch
    How to build a Flat Pan
    How to build a Flue Pan
    How to build a Bending Brake
    How to use a Hydrotherm
    How much Sap to Sweeten

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Green County Kentucky
    Posts
    146

    Default

    Big Eddy
    Thanks for the description and clarification. That cleared it up. I just couldn't get it in my mind the way you first described it and the way it looked in the picture. I have a box and pan brake but I couldn't get in shape to bend the flues. So I went to a large machine shop that we use at work who does a lot of fabrication, and they scratched their heads and wanted some time to try and check with some other shops. And here we have a guy in his garage builds a brake out of scraps laying around that you can pack under your arm that will do the job. Everyone is always looking for the difficult/complicated answer instead of the simple one. Thanks again.

    Dave

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