WRU in process

[NH Maplemaker]

If a hot tube blower will work in the amount of water they work in, It should more than provide enough CFM to agitate the small amount of sap that will be in the WRU. Also they must come in differant sizes for CFM. As far as air goes, It should be filtered know matter what type of blower you decide on. When you start looking at factory stuff the dollars start adding up fast! Most places that work on spa's have salvage blowers hanging around!! My repair man said he has a box of them Jim L.

[NH Maplemaker]

I think Gary ha a good point! If you know someone close to you that has a factory built WRU it would be worth the trip for a peak at it! JimL.

[twobears1224]

heres a good website on blowers.if you look thur it,ll explaine alot about blowers and how they work and build cfm,s and pressure

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

delbert

[twobears1224]

i did a web search and i fixed the below link i posted...theres alot of good info on blowers there.

delbert

[nymapleguy607]

I would go with copper steam pipes, if you could find the type they use in baseboard hot water heaters, the fins would help transfer heat that much better
The blower from a hot tub should work fine I would put something like a charcoal filter on the outlet side of the blower to filter the air you are injecting.

[Sugarmaker]

Thanks guys!
Gary R, I have went and looked at a factory unit several years ago. Lost the sketches and did not get all the details captured. But some of it stuck in the old head. Plus I am a stubborn German and usually do things the hard way twice

Some one asked about the copper vs stainless cost. The copper is $10.00 per foot and the stainless is $2.00 per foot. I need 50 feet + so $500 vs $100 for the stainless. I am strongly leaning towards the stainless pipe due to the low budget factor and I see other factory pre-heaters on the site made from stainless. I know that when my stainless pans get hot you do not want to put your hand on them

Jim L, I have to some more research on the spa blower. Interesting that the holes in the air pipes may be somewhere between .06 and .375. I have a design (on paper) where I can remove the bubbler system easily and make modifications to the orifices as required to get the desired effect.

Guys one of the things I am interested in doing is to make improvements on the existing designs that are out there if possible.

I really appreciate the comments! Keeps me going and thinking. Thanks for helping!

Dave 3% Yea I know! In one end out the other! Still thinking on this question. Still seems to me that the sap would, or could, get hotter by traveling 8 feet in a WRU vs 4 feet? This is the same concept as a flue pan with a sap tube that takes the cold incoming sap to the front of the pan and then the sap has to travel a longer distance to get around the flue pan to the front pan. King and Leader pans have this feature.

Regards,
Chris C.

[jrthe3]

chris i have some old milk line it is stainless have no idea what the thick ness is but you are welcome to it it is just sitting on back wall of sugar house

[Gary R]

Chris,

Get in touch with Jim Brown. I'm sure he'd let you get a look at it. While your there you can stop by and see my backyard rig.

[Father & Son]

Chris,
That might be a good side trip(s) on the 19th.

Jim

[syrupkid]

If the stainles is that much cheaper than thats what I'd go with. By the way how thick is the cheaper stainless?????