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Thread: WRU in process

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Albion PA
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    Maple folks I need your opinions!

    First: I have formed the two vees where the sap will set in the WRU from 18 guage stainless. Yes its a little heavy but the price was right. I can get 18 guage stainless tubing for the steam pipes thru the sap at a very reasonable cost per foot compared to copper. I know copper is a much better heat conductor but I am strongly considering going with the 2 inch stainless steam pipes. I will try to post a picture. Comments are welcome.

    Second: Also I will be able to have about 20 gallons of sap heating in the WRU at any one time does this sound about right for a 3 x 10? Sap will be about 6.5 to 7 inches deep. With out rebuilding the Vees this is what I will go with.

    Third: Suggestion was made to me that a blower for a hot tub might work very well for the air supply for the bubbler in the WRU? I was sketching up a manifold system of 1/2 inch dia copper air pipes that would be feed through 1 inch copper. Rather that a air box in the end of the WRU. Again comments will be entertained.

    Fourth and last: I would like to run the sap in one end of the Vee on the left side at the back, bring the sap to the front of that Vee transfer it through a tube to the front of the right Vee and then exit at the back of the right Vee.
    Seems to me this would allow the sap to dwell longer and have a longer path to drive off more steam. The Vees would operate in Series rather than parallel. I know most of the ones that I have seen are not made this way. Can anyone describe the pros and cons of this approach?

    Regards,
    Chris
    Casbohm Maple and Honey
    625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
    3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
    12" SIRO Filter Press.
    2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
    One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
    Too many Cub Cadets
    Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
    1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck

    www.mapleandhoney.com

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Porter, Maine
    Posts
    379

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    After reading your last post,I'm not really sure what were looking at, the thing that stands out for me would be the depth of the sap and the volume in there, my calculator is not at hand , so guessing 3' x 5' x 6" of sap(I'm guessing) there'd be fifty gallons there. It does take a little energy to heat that much sap. If your running steam pipes through there and then a bunch of pipes with air to agitate the sap(as another well known WRU does) I'd say your on the right track. Someone with a factory WRU could tell you what they run for depth, but I think the sap is run rather low in them,with the steampipes exposed so the air pressure can do its work. That said , once all that plumbing is dropped in there and takes up all that room , you might be back at 15-20 gallons of sap for volume.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    northern,ny
    Posts
    403

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    here some links to help you figure volume

    square tanks http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calcul...ttank_calc.htm

    round tanks http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calcul...ltank_calc.htm

    delbert

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Northwest Pa
    Posts
    902

    Smile

    Chris; On Mine the sap is only covering the pipes when the air is on. If you just fill it the 2 inch pipes are only about half covered until I turn on the blower. Then they are covered with sap that is full of bubbles. My 2x4 (WRU)only holds about 5-7 gallon when operating. Cold sap(8%) on the inside and 185-190 degree sap(10 1/2%) feeding the rig. your going to love it!!

    Jim
    Maple consultant for 50 years

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Albion PA
    Posts
    5,099

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    two bears and Jim B.
    I have the volume calculation done for the volume in the Vee's and the 20 gal of sap is what will be in the WRU unit at any one time. Its basically a 10 inch square x 48 inchs long = 4800 cu. in. and a gallon is 231 cu. in.
    I boil at about 80 GPH now with a preheater in the hood. I would like to get to 120 GPH if possible with the WRU? (reduce boiling time!)
    Also hoping to take the % sugar from 2% to 3% or more using a WRU?? And preheating the sap to 200 F. too.
    Thanks!
    Chris C.
    Casbohm Maple and Honey
    625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
    3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
    12" SIRO Filter Press.
    2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
    One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
    Too many Cub Cadets
    Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
    1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck

    www.mapleandhoney.com

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Albion PA
    Posts
    5,099

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    Come on guys!
    1. stainless or copper steam tubes?
    2. Spa tub air blower?
    3. What size air holes in the air tubes?
    4. Series or parallel flow sap path?



    Regards,
    Chris C.
    Casbohm Maple and Honey
    625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
    3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
    12" SIRO Filter Press.
    2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
    One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
    Too many Cub Cadets
    Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
    1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck

    www.mapleandhoney.com

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Newport, NH
    Posts
    1,063

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    Sugarmaker,
    Copper, must be what's needed, that's what a steam-away has. Thin copper too.
    Spa blower with a control.
    Holes need to be 1/8"
    old sap comes in one end, hot goes out the other.

    You know I would say that didn't you!!!!!!!

    Dave
    2x5 SS home design on a home design arch w/ forced draft
    SS Evaporation Enhancement Unit
    Home design filter / canner
    Daryl Sheets filter press
    300 taps (280 on line, 20 buckets)
    120 gph Home Design RO
    2017 Chevy Silverado w/ 275 gallon tank
    8x16 sugarhouse w/ attached woodshed
    A wife, family and friends that love to help!!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Merrill WI
    Posts
    116

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    1. depends on how much cheaper the stainless is also with stainless once ie gets heated up it should transfer heat just as well i think

    2. a hot tub air blower should work but remember yuo have to have a good air filter on it you dont want dirty air in the sap!!!!!!!!!!!

    3. i would think .125" or less?????????

    4. i would think series but maybe it doesnt matter??????????
    18 Years Old
    Been Cooking Since Nine and Constantly Expanding
    275 on Vacuum and 215 Bags
    John Deere 2320
    Wes-Fab 7" Short Stack Filter Press
    Ray Gengrich 250 R/O
    Waterloo/Small 2x8 with Home-Made HP AOF and AUF and Air-Tight Door

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Porter, Maine
    Posts
    379

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    I believe in the factory WRU the holes in the floor were the air exits are punched quite large , like 3/8"(i could be wrong)and thats why they use a blower with alot of cfm's going in , becouse on the other end , its really comming out to agitate , not just bubble.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Polk, PA
    Posts
    1,363

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    I reccomend go look at a factory one.
    136 on high vacuum for 2019
    A&A 2X8, raised flue evaporator
    hood, parallel flow pre heater and air over fire
    12X28 sugar shack

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