i need plans for a 10x16..

[vermaple]

thanks everyone i greatly appreciate it. if anyone could give pictures of them that would be woderful of interior and exterior sugar house or plans to how to build one that would be deeply appreciated. thank you. tap

I used to have a publication of sugar house designs. Some research might turn it up. At this time I cannot remember if it is a USDA, or a UVM Extension publication. I would look to UVM Ext. first.

[vermaple]

3rdGen, Thanks for the reply.
I am planning on pouring the entire floor in concrete with a curb so I can hose down when needed. There will be 4'x8' doors on each side that will slide open, allowing access to wood storage without having to worry about the space taken up by the swing of the door. Do you reinforce the concrete where the evap goes or just rely on the strength of the floor. Floor is proposed at 5" thick over stone.

John,
I agree with 3rdgen on using mesh to reinforce the floor, but I would also add some reinforcing rod under the evaporator to try to prevent cracks under the rig. Use #4 rod at about a 12"x12" spacing. Extend about a foot outside of the evaporator footprint.

[Snow Hill Farm]

One of the best things I did when pouring my floor was to install a simple floor drain in the middle about 2" lower than the outside edge. 4" pvc that goes down under the slab and daylights outside. I agree with the rebar, I used #4 at 12" o.c. each way and my floor hasn't cracked.

[Whitetail24]

Hi

I have attached the link to the UVM publication page.
http://www.uvm.edu/~uvmaple/?Page=on...lications.html

There is also a link to their Sugarhouse Design pdf file.
http://www.uvm.edu/~uvmaple/sugarhousedesign.pdf

Sugarhouse file is 27 pages.

Enjoy
Whitetail24

[johnallin]

Thanks 3rdGen, Vermont and SnowHill. The rebar makes a lot of sense under the evap and I will do just that.

We're pretty much in the woods so a center drain is also a great idea as long as I can keep the critters from using it as an entrance....

Did you build on footers? The mason is thinking a thickend slab - 12"x 12" deep at outer edge with a curb then going to 5" in the floor area. Any thoughts or experience with that?

Thanks again

[wanting to get into it]

Just remember your slab is only as good as your sub grade. The better your sub grade is the longer your slab will last crack free. Rebar should be a must as well. I work for a concrete paving company and could keep going with many options, it just depends on what lengths you are willing to go.

[3rdgen.maple]

Johnallin Lets start by saying I am no concrete expert but here is my thoughts. If you go the route of the 12 inch slab on the outer perimeter I would not pour it so it is part of the floor. I would pour the 12 inch footer first build the sugarhouse then pour the floor. I would put that foam sheeting between the footer and the floor. I would think the weight of the walls plus the snow on the roof would cause enough settling that it will crack your floor in a hurry if it was one piece. I do know that alot of old school mason who built houses many moons ago only had footers down in the ground a few inches. I live in an old house that was built that way and darn if it is not still standing as strong as ever. But like already mentioned it might have alot to do with the earth under the foundation and frost zones. We get snow before a hard freeze here and anytime or any year in the winter you can dig out the snow and have unfrozen ground under it. Sounds like you are skipping the zoning laws and inspector but you just might want to check your codes to be safe incase you get a visit. And the last thing is I think we have a tendancy to overkill the capacity of concrete. An arch and full pans is not as heavy as you think. I have installed many machines that are in the thousands of pounds that the manufactures only require a 5 inch pad for and they do not move.

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

Johnallin,
My sugar house is on a slab that is about a foot deep under the walls and 4 to 6 inches deep for the main floor. It is one piece except that I formed out the place where the evaporator sets and poured that a week later and 2 inches thicker (a little less bending to fire the thing). I used lots of farmer re rod throughout the floor (old gutter cleaner chains, spreader webs, bandsaw blades, and whatever else). The pour was ramrodded by my 82 year old father in law who poured concrete as an independent contractor for 35 years. Building is 24 x 26 feet. Evaporator slab is 6 x 14 feet. No sign of anything moving or any cracks. We dug out and leveled the foundation area and put drainage tile around and under the area. We put a floor drain in that goes down to one of the drainage tile. A sub base of crushed marble was put down and the concrete poured on top of that. A good solid and well drained base is essential. Limit the moisture and you limit the potential for frost heaving.

[dschultz]

My evaporator sit's on a 14x18 slab that is a foot higher then the main floor.No more bending to fire it.

[Farmboy]

i need plans for a 10x16 sugar shack built the cheapest way possible. any help would be appreciated a ton. thank you

The cheapest siding I've found is old garage doors. Some of them are even insulated. I've just pulled them out of the dumpster at a local garage door instaler with his permision.