+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 10 of 20

Thread: using propane burners to boil

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Belchertown, MA
    Posts
    723

    Default using propane burners to boil

    I'm going to have to use propane again this year.

    I know! I know. Please.... I know. It's all I've got. If I'm going to make any syrup at all this year, this is how it's gonna have to be. It won't be much, but it will satisfy the itch.

    So. How can I get the most out of my burners? I have two burners that look pretty much like this:



    My question for now is, do you think I can get a better burn by forcing more air into the mix? I've heard that there's no such thing as putting too much air into your wood arch, is this any different? Doesn't propane need to be mixxed with air to burn?

    Another thought - the regulators I'm using are 20 psi. I know there are 30 psi available. More power = more boil?
    Patrick

    Wood fired barrel boiler and squirrel cage forced air
    Slowly warping plexi steam hood
    shiny selfmade copper pre-heater
    Fiddy something taps
    10x12 raised platform shack
    not enough coffee
    picked a bad year to give up ice cream

    ~~Maple Sugaring~~
    Occasional Creek Maple [+] On Facebook [+] On Twitter
    ~~~~Personal~~~~
    Shared pics [+] Best Imitation of Myself [+] On Facebook

  2. #2
    Haynes Forest Products Guest

    Default

    I have two of the ones on the right on my finish pan and 24X36 and it takes along time to get to a boil. Im not impressed with the flame. I do have the same burner on the left ok for turkeys. You cant force feed gas and air together will blow the flame off the burner it needs to draw in the right amout of air as the gas increases.

  3. #3
    mfchef54 Guest

    Default

    I seem to remember that someone had a four steam table pan, propane unit that was enclosed. Just can't find it. Try looking for that or maybe the person who has it will respond.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Belchertown, MA
    Posts
    723

    Default

    I have a fairly large stainless sink blank (no drain punched out). My plan was to build an enclosure for the burner out of red brink, and set the pan on top. The burner throws a lot of heat at the pot, but most of it escapes up around it. I'm hoping to trap and keep as of that heat as possible.
    Patrick

    Wood fired barrel boiler and squirrel cage forced air
    Slowly warping plexi steam hood
    shiny selfmade copper pre-heater
    Fiddy something taps
    10x12 raised platform shack
    not enough coffee
    picked a bad year to give up ice cream

    ~~Maple Sugaring~~
    Occasional Creek Maple [+] On Facebook [+] On Twitter
    ~~~~Personal~~~~
    Shared pics [+] Best Imitation of Myself [+] On Facebook

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    waitsfield
    Posts
    594

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Clan Delaney View Post
    I have a fairly large stainless sink blank (no drain punched out). My plan was to build an enclosure for the burner out of red brink, and set the pan on top. The burner throws a lot of heat at the pot, but most of it escapes up around it. I'm hoping to trap and keep as of that heat as possible.
    why dont you just make a brick arch for the sink and run wood?????? its so much faster, i tried a propane burner once, and then i popped the idea to use the bbq. BIG DIFFERENCE!!!! or find an old furnace and take the burner out of it, and run oil, are you in vt? i might have a burner you could have if you wantedit i was thinking of using it for my 2x4 next year just for fun, but i dont think i want to run oil in it, if your interested let me know
    Last edited by dano2840; 01-26-2009 at 11:47 AM.
    Dan O'Shaughnessy

    2007 jd5203
    Husqvarna 61, (2)Husqvarna 272XP, 23 and finally getting back into it after 2 long years away

    DanO

  6. #6
    Haynes Forest Products Guest

    Default

    Beweller: why cant the flames hit the pan? I had my burners just like clans got off beer site on Ebay and mounted them to low. Flame was 8" high and skinny and didnt heat but a small area of the pan. Moved up close and increased the boil rate plus turned down the flame by 25%. Flame spreads out under the pan and covers most of the bottom.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Eastern Ontario
    Posts
    9

    Default

    I had two of these burners when I started. You'll lose most of the heat if you don't use some kind of insulation. I had made two boxes out of ciment blocks...the burner was inside and my pan was sitting on top of the ciment blocks. Just make sure that you have an opening where the rubber hose is...not sure how much heat this rubber hose can take.

  8. #8
    Haynes Forest Products Guest

    Default

    The burners on the right I used the first problem was I had them mounted to low and they looked like a candle flame under the pan so mount them about 2" from bottom of pan. The other design flaw was I enclosed all 4 sides and the heat and spent gasses built up and caused the burner to run very poorly. I opend up the front near the air intakes for the burner and it worked better.
    Clan I would look for a gas grill the kind that has the replaceable SS grate the kind that you get a Home Depot. They are a large rectangle. If you find the burned out grill most of the time the regulator valve and gas orfice is fine.

  9. #9
    Haynes Forest Products Guest

    Default

    Clan: what you need to find is a Hotsy unit that the coil froze up and trashed the unit and get the Kerosene burner out of it they are small oil guns (there cute)and you can move up to the the big time oil guys.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    213

    Default

    The propane induces its air in the ventrui. The flame should be all blue, no yellow. If there is an adjustable air shutter, adjust it to produce this condition, just eliminating the yellow. The propane flow is excessive if the flames begin to lift from the ports. The flames should not contact the pan. but should be close--maybe a half inch or a bit less. Secondary air--air coming in around the burner--is needed but should not be excessive. Insufficient secondary air may cause the flames to become yellow again, and the burnt gases will have a pungent odor.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts