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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
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    Default canning syrup

    To start off, this is my 2nd year, made a little over 6 gal's last year and I canned it in Quart jars, and the best I could tell it was a 66.9 brix and it is all keeping fine.
    This year I have a Murphy cup, will make it a lot easier, my big question is, does it hurt to be a little heavy on the brix, will it still store ok, I don't sell, just for personal use and give to family

  2. #2
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    Nov 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastky View Post
    To start off, this is my 2nd year, made a little over 6 gal's last year and I canned it in Quart jars, and the best I could tell it was a 66.9 brix and it is all keeping fine.
    This year I have a Murphy cup, will make it a lot easier, my big question is, does it hurt to be a little heavy on the brix, will it still store ok, I don't sell, just for personal use and give to family
    Better to be a little heavy on density than light. If too heavy, only issue is that it may crystallize on the bottom of the container.
    Good luck!
    Seldom Seen Farm
    Montville Ohio.
    Seldomseenmaple.com

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kh7722 View Post
    Better to be a little heavy on density than light. If too heavy, only issue is that it may crystallize on the bottom of the container.
    Good luck!
    yep and if it does that you then have some Maple rock candy.

  4. #4
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    Default

    eastky, you asked about bottling a little heavy, you need to know what a little heavy means. The Murphy cup is a great tool, however if it reads 2 full points heavier than what the Murphy cup says it should, you will definitely end up with sugar crystals in the bottom of the container. The murphy cup , if matched correctly will result in 66.9% sugar, 67-67.1 is fine, 68.9 is a little too high. Some people will think there is broken glass in the bottom, that is sugar that settled out, good to eat, but you could have made more syrup rather than going over density. To correct it, just add good potable water, or distilled water or sap very slowly, blend it in and test. If adding sap the syrup being tested must be at 180+.
    As I repack a SS barrel into retail containers, if it tests high, I add distilled water. Sometimes it only needs a pint or 2, other times almost a gal. I really like the occasional time it needs a gal or almost a gal, the distilled water costs far less than my retail for syrup. In my case, I do 14-15 gal batches at a time, adding a gallon increases my profit nicely.
    Dave Klish, Retired from collecting and boiling in 2021. Mostly because of a bad hip.
    2012 Mahindra 36 HP 4x4/ loader/cab/heat/AC:-)
    formerly had:
    3x8 raised flue evaporator
    250 GPH converted to electric, RO by Ray Gingerich
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler
    6.32 KW solar system, 1.48KW is battery backed up, all net metered
    website: www.cnymaple.com

  5. #5
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    Kentucky
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    Quote Originally Posted by maple flats View Post
    eastky, you asked about bottling a little heavy, you need to know what a little heavy means. The Murphy cup is a great tool, however if it reads 2 full points heavier than what the Murphy cup says it should, you will definitely end up with sugar crystals in the bottom of the container. The murphy cup , if matched correctly will result in 66.9% sugar, 67-67.1 is fine, 68.9 is a little too high. Some people will think there is broken glass in the bottom, that is sugar that settled out, good to eat, but you could have made more syrup rather than going over density. To correct it, just add good potable water, or distilled water or sap very slowly, blend it in and test. If adding sap the syrup being tested must be at 180+.
    As I repack a SS barrel into retail containers, if it tests high, I add distilled water. Sometimes it only needs a pint or 2, other times almost a gal. I really like the occasional time it needs a gal or almost a gal, the distilled water costs far less than my retail for syrup. In my case, I do 14-15 gal batches at a time, adding a gallon increases my profit nicely.
    Thanks for the info, I wasn't sure how much over 66.9 was too much, I have it in the refrigerator, so I will mix it in with the next batch and get it all to 66.9 before I bottle.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Covington, New York
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    I typically draw off the evaporator about 2 points heavy as well. Easier to bring it back down to syrup while finishing than the other way around. Plus, if it is a couple weeks or more between finishing/bottling sessions, I feel a little heavier should keep better than a little light. That's just my opinion though.
    Noel Good
    1998 to 2009: 15 taps on buckets, scavenged fire pit and pans
    2010: New 2x4 SS flat pan w/preheater
    2015: New to me Lapierre 18x60 raised flue, new shack, new everything!! 59 taps 23.75 gallons made
    2016: 85 taps 19 gallons
    2017: Purchased 2.5 acres and tubed half with 3/16. 145 taps total 49.25 gallons made
    2018: 200 taps (162 on 3/16ths 38 on buckets) New NextGen RO 63 gallons made
    2019: 210 taps 73.5 gallons made
    www.wnybass.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Central Pennsylvania
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    I noticed some crystals in the bottom of some of my bottles from last year. Probably got a little heavy while re-heating in the "bottling pot".
    So what are the dangers/effects of bottling a little lite? Say 65.5 or 66.0?
    2020 - 1st year - 13 black walnut taps - 4 bottles syrup
    2021 - 50 taps, 22 black walnuts/28 red maples - 4 gallons syrup
    2022 - 54 taps, 11 black walnuts/41 red maples, 20 on solar shurflo vacuum - 8.5 gallons syrup
    2023 - 47 taps on 45 red maples, 43 on solar shurflo vacuum

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Location
    Kentucky
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    I just had my first boil of the year yesterday, had about 160 gal of sap, got my pan sweetened and had 1 small syrup draw before I ran out of sap and it was about 2 points heavy, I have it in the frig, so I will wait till I get more and then get it all to 66.9. Thanks for the advice

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