Releaser fitting repairs

[Rselleck91]

I have a mechanical double vertical releaser that the PVC 2 inch going into the 12 inch canister has snapped off.

My idea is to take a little coping saw and cut the remainder off to the canisters flush, take a hole saw and saw a hole into a nice piece of 1 1/8 Advantech sub flooring to use as a guide to use the hole saw to drill out the old pvc pipe.

Anyone ever have this and had a way that’s better?
Also what pvc glue is being used to glue these back up?

[Brian]

Cut the pipe off flush, then find a hole saw that will fit in the hole of the pipe and use this as a guide. Then find the hole saw that is the size of the hole that you want in the releaser. Mount the 2 hole saws on the same pilot bit with the smaller one last that will be your guide for the new hole. It will stick out a 1/4 of an inch. Becareful because it can wobble. I hope this makes sense. So you stack the 2 hole saws on the same pilot bit.If you have enough room some times you can place a washer between the 2 hole saws.

[GeneralStark]

That's a clever trick Brian.... When drilling out an existing hole with a hole saw I have always used the method Rselleck describes, with a piece of plywood clamped in such a way to allow the pilot bit to drill into it.

I'm not sure what would be the best glue option for this... You could also theoretically tap the hole to be able to use a threaded fitting....Or you could use a UNIseal...

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...x?itemid=89951

[DrTimPerkins]

Also what pvc glue is being used to glue these back up?

Standard PVC cement is fine...just be sure both surfaces are clean, prime, then apply the glue and hold the piece in place til it sets. Let it completely cure and air out before using the releaser. If you don't get a perfect seal with the cement, marine caulk (adhesive sealant) on the outside will seal any small pinholes. Just note that you'll never get it apart again -- stuff works great...but it is permanent.

[craigwade2005]

They also make a PVC fitting reamer that would work for what you describe. Obviously, the more expensive ones make a better surface finish but they do work well.
fitting reamer.jpg

[johnallin]

Standard PVC cement is fine...just be sure both surfaces are clean, prime, then apply the glue and hold the piece in place til it sets. Let it completely cure and air out before using the releaser. If you don't get a perfect seal with the cement, marine caulk (adhesive sealant) on the outside will seal any small pinholes. Just note that you'll never get it apart again -- stuff works great...but it is permanent.

Dr. Tim,
You referring to 3M 5200? If so - you're right, stuff is tenacious... ask me how I know.

[DrTimPerkins]

Dr. Tim,
You referring to 3M 5200? If so - you're right, stuff is tenacious... ask me how I know.

Yes, 3M 5200 or equivalent. Great stuff.

[johnallin]

3M 4200 is very similar and great below the water line, but allows removal of the part if needed.

[collinsmapleman2012]

Factory glue is gold can Oatey, which is clear pvc cement. that was the answer when i asked Leader about it last year, as i had a bad fitting.

[wiam]

Another vote for uniseals. I have used several on releasers. Have not had one not seal. Pretty forgiving on wobbly drilling. I boil them in water before installing. Makes them form to hole better. I use some food grade lube on pipe I’m inserting. Other nice part is you can pull the pipe out for maintenance and reinstall.