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Thread: How to add draw off without welding

  1. #1
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    Default How to add draw off without welding

    I have a homemade oil tank evaporator with a stainless pan that was used for catering. It's not quite 2'x4'. I do batches currently, but would eventually like to do a divided pan. Wondering how to get a drain added without welding. I only have a stick welder and I'm not the best at thinner material anyways. I was thinking I could just do a hole and get some stainless fittings, but the bottom corners have a radius on my pan. Maybe an inch. So to get to a flat spot that would seal well, I'd either have to do it up a half inch from the bottom or coming out of the bottom which creates its own issues. Last year I had to have 2 people and basically tilt the pan off the open fire below. Pretty sketchy and definitely can't do by myself.

    I was thinking I could try to hammer out a flat spot in the radius, but then I worry it won't sit as flat or level on the fire box.

    Any suggestions? Or pictures of what yours looks like?

  2. #2
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    I ran into the same situation that you have except on a bottle filler I was making. this was welded but might give you an idea of how you can do your pan. The rounded corner was an issue. I made a "fitting" from stainless pipe cut in half the size I needed to sit on the flat bottom of the kettle then with a grinder radiused the shoulder of the fitting where it met the rounded corner of the kettle. The end was just a half moon shape piece of stainless BUT this was welded on. So you would have to tig weld your rig to make this work. A cutout in your arch framework to keep fire off and let the pan sit level and your good. Jay
    Bottle Filler (4).jpg Bottle Filler (2).jpg
    Last edited by Zucker Lager; 01-01-2023 at 11:33 AM.
    Zucker Lager

  3. #3
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    I put a valve in a stock pot by drilling a hole, then I drew the hole out with a mandrel to form a lip. I then silver soldered a ss coupling on. Worked good. The lip is needed to have a good strong joint.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zucker Lager View Post
    I ran into the same situation that you have except on a bottle filler I was making. this was welded but might give you an idea of how you can do your pan. The rounded corner was an issue. I made a "fitting" from stainless pipe cut in half the size I needed to sit on the flat bottom of the kettle then with a grinder radiused the shoulder of the fitting where it met the rounded corner of the kettle. The end was just a half moon shape piece of stainless BUT this was welded on. So you would have to tig weld your rig to make this work. A cutout in your arch framework to keep fire off and let the pan sit level and your good. Jay
    Attachment 22689 Attachment 22690
    That's really nice work!

    I spent a bit of time at the hardware store the other day. I think I have a solution worked out. It won't be ideal and get every last drop, but it will be better than nothing. Assuming it dosesn't leak, then nothing would be better lol. I have to scrounge up a few stainless washers then I'll put it together and leak test and post pictures. As for the joints, they are all pipe threads. I have some Teflon tape and pipe dope. Both are used in drinking water, but wasn't sure what was recommended for the elevated temps.

  5. #5
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    A couple of ways. I added a thermometer fitting by using a Greenlee punch to make a hole, then I added an adapter with 2 silicone washers, one on each side to mount the thermometer thru, I worked fine.
    On another project I used a larger Greenlee punch to make a hole thru the sidewall of my evaporator and I used a fitting that mounted thru the hole, giving me an opening to use a threaded adapter in the opening. Off hand I forget what that adapter was called but someone will chime in with a name. It has a gasket on each side , and a backwards thread and nut on the back side to tighten it.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by maple flats View Post
    Off hand I forget what that adapter was called but someone will chime in with a name. It has a gasket on each side , and a backwards thread and nut on the back side to tighten it.
    Bulkhead fitting (stainless). You'd still be left with the issue of it not being able to drain the pan completely. We let the rig cool off, then lift one edge and prop it up with 2"x4" pieces to help it drain a bit better. Still leaves some residual syrup in the pan.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

  7. #7
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    On utube look up how to build a keggle . there are a bunch so it should give you some good ideas

  8. #8
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    If you go with the bulkhead fitting, make sure the hole is far enough up the side to have the washer and gasket fit flush on the inside. You may want to look into the threads on adding copper pipe drop tubes to pans as an idea also.
    Smoky Lake 2x6 dropflu pans and hoods on homemade arch
    Smoky Lake 6 gallon water jacked bottler
    Concentric Exhaust
    250 Deer Run RO
    325 taps

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