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Thread: converting from wood to oil....

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    western PA
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    58

    Default converting from wood to oil....

    I have a 2x6 leader and I am not sure what size BTU oil burner to get. Any help appreciated! Who else has done this and what did you do with the firebox? Bricks? Im looking forward to NEVER cutting wood again! Ken

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
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    11,566

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    Leader suggests a Carlin #102, firing at 3-3.5 gph.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Barnet, VT
    Posts
    2,580

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    https://leaderevaporator.com/content...d-Oil-Arch.pdf

    I would say these are starting points. When I built my 3x12 I tried several different size and pattern nozzles and pressures before it boiled like I wanted.
    William
    950 taps
    3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian Arch
    CDL 600 expandable

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    western PA
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Thank you for the info. I have a few follow up questions now. Should I fill the fire box up to where the grates are? I was going to brick the area and insulate it. Also I see in the link that William posted that leader says to use a 6" stack with oil. I think my stack for wood is at 10" (have to go out and measure) Do you think my draft will be affected by this difference? I am thinking of a damper in the stack if necessary. Ken

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Orford Quebec
    Posts
    39

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    Did this conversion last year, yes fill and insulate to the grates, your 10 inch stack should be fine and I put a damper in mine, a couple of tools you will need , a smoke tester, draft meter, oil pressure gauge on the pump. Get an oversized burner so it you need more heat you can get it, bad timing for the price of oil but the 10 min shutdown is worth it

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Esko,MN
    Posts
    290

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    I converted my 2x8 wood arch to oil last winter. I put in a Carlin 301 with a 3.5 gph nozzle. I think a 201 may have worked but wanted to know for sure I would have enough burner if I needed to burn more oil. 8" stack. I put my burner on the back wall to make it reverse fired and removed my brick and covered the grates with ceramic blanket. My stack temp is 583 degrees and get a nice even boil. In order to make it cost effective, I RO to 12-15 brix and my cost was under $1/gallon for oil. I love it and would never go back to wood.
    Chad

    2014: 12 taps, 5 gal buckets
    2015: 15 taps on bags
    2016: 150 taps: 100 on bags, 50 on 3/16" natural vac, 2x8 AUF/AOF Homebuilt Arch, 2x8 SL Drop Flu & Auto Draw, SL Propane Canner/Bottler
    2017: 225 taps: Built Lean to, Added SL hood, preheater, concentric exhaust, SL SS 7" SB Filter Press
    2018: 180 taps: Added Shurflo to 50 - 3/16", Auto fill sensor to head tank
    2019: No tapping
    2020: 175 taps
    2021: 300 taps, homemade RO and releaser
    2022: 600+ taps

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