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Thread: 16x16 Sugar House Build. Here we go again! Post pics as I go...

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lake County Ohio
    Posts
    1,628

    Default moisture barrier

    Nice job Jeremy! that's going to be a great sugar house.

    Is there a reason you want to use a moisture barrier? Thinking it may trap moisture on the inside of the shack

    I also used hemlock I had milled with a ship lap edge by Mervin over at Marsh Valley Wood in Middlefield.
    Rough-sawn on one side and smooth on the other, installed with the smooth on the inside and it looks great.
    John Allin

    14x18 Hemlock Timber Frame Sugar House 2009
    Leader 2x6 w/Patriot Raised Flue Pan 2009
    Leader Steam Hood 2014 - Clear Filter Press 2015
    Leader Revolution Pan and SS Pre-Heater 2016
    CDL Hobby RO & Air Tech L25 Hi Vac Pump 2019
    06' Gator HPX to collect wood & sap
    14' Ski-Doo Tundra for winter work in the woods
    Great Family 3 grown kids+spouses and 7 grand kids who like the woods
    7th Gen Born in Canada - Raised in Chardon Ohio - Maple Capital of the World..<grin>.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Chardon, OH
    Posts
    446

    Default

    Hey John. With my old shack I used no moisture barriers on the walls and, while it was fine, it got pretty cold in there when I wasn't actually boiling at 1000 degrees... Figure this would cut out some heat loss and draft. Besides I never get any moisture on the inside since I use a steam hood and big pipes that carry the steam all the way to the cupola.

    I'm not building a residential home, so there are always tons of places for the building to breathe regardless, since it's not air-tight by design...(bird blocks above the top plate, and the cupola as well).
    Last edited by WoodButcher; 07-23-2022 at 12:22 PM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Chardon, OH
    Posts
    446

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    In regards to the hemlock. I've built a couple other buildings in the past with rough sawn pine from Noah at River Valley Pine, but he was backed up for 5 months and I wasn't about to put up siding in November...
    So while picking up other things in Middlefield I poked around and found out that Noah's nephew, Chester, was opening up his own mill, Grand River Hemlock. Hemlock is obviously similar to pine but a little bit stronger and it needs to be hung up wet or it'll split easier. It's also a little pricier. The hemlock quote was only 15 - 20% more than pine so not that bad considering. Chester was very easy to deal with and only took 5 weeks to turn around my 115 board and battens. Really nice family guy and a better experience all around. I'll be using him again for future projects.
    Last edited by WoodButcher; 07-23-2022 at 08:36 AM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Wardensville, Wv
    Posts
    322

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    My current sugar house stayed plenty warm when we were boiling with a masonry arch on a flat pan, even in the wind. When we went to an air tight 2x6 then people started to get cold. I can appreciate the thought of prevent the cold air from whipping through, especially if I want to keep any company in the sugar house once the sun goes down. I purchased some 12x16timber frame plans from a website and hope to get it up before the 2023 season, I'll likely frame in some walls with moisture barrier and possible foam insulation with some company in mind. For some reason I never get cold, maybe I'm just too busy to think about it while I'm boiling, lol.
    2023 - 38 Gallons - RO broke, Buckets didn't run, rebuilt vacuum pump mid-season, still made good syrup!
    2022 - 52 Gallons - DIY RO, 50% less fuel, no late nights in the shack!
    2021 - 48 Gallons - new pans, new arch, lots of new taps and tubing
    2020 - 32 Gallons
    2019 - 27 Gallons

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Chardon, OH
    Posts
    446

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    Roofing is done. Went with a burgundy this time. Matches our house shutters.
    metal gable trim and other trim piece around the cupola will be the last thing to go since I need to stain the fascia boards before putting them on

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/rF2ZGBWqNGRnoX4o9

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NE Ohio, Geauga county, Montville
    Posts
    357

    Default

    Looking good! Decent weather this summer to! What evaporator are you putting in it?
    12X16 Sugarhouse and 16x24 attached woodshed
    1000 taps
    120 3/16 tubing
    And still some buckets
    Becker U5.70 Rotary vane
    Leader 2X8 Reverse oil fired, Revolution Pans & Steam a way
    Lapierre Turbo 2000 600 GPH RO
    Leader Clear frame filter press
    John Deere Gator 6X4
    Indy 500 and a very large sled.
    Kubota M8200

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Chardon, OH
    Posts
    446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by christopherh View Post
    Looking good! Decent weather this summer to! What evaporator are you putting in it?
    I was half tempted to get a new one, but metal is too expensive right now and I still saved my old one, D&G 2x6 raised flue. My old setup consistently produced 30 - 38 GPH with no blower or anything making noise. I'm all about efficiency so if I would spend any money it would be on an airtight arch with air over fire and keep my pans. Would love to load every 15 or 20 minutes instead of every 8 minutes!
    Last edited by WoodButcher; 08-02-2022 at 08:02 AM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Wardensville, Wv
    Posts
    322

    Default

    I'm boiling on a 2x6 air tight with AUF, if i don't feed every 5 minutes by the clock my fire is out, does Air over Fire make that much difference in fuel consumption?

    I have a dayton blower, it's pretty quiet on an 'air tight' arch we built. I didn't buy any of the metal new, i just kept my eye out for angle and plate for sale on facebook marketplace. it works well enough we plan on just upgrading the pans and keeping the arch until we need something with more GPH. I'll add a hood/preheater or piggyback before i increase the footprint. The 2x6 with a good RO goes a long way!
    2023 - 38 Gallons - RO broke, Buckets didn't run, rebuilt vacuum pump mid-season, still made good syrup!
    2022 - 52 Gallons - DIY RO, 50% less fuel, no late nights in the shack!
    2021 - 48 Gallons - new pans, new arch, lots of new taps and tubing
    2020 - 32 Gallons
    2019 - 27 Gallons

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Chardon, OH
    Posts
    446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by darkmachine View Post
    I'm boiling on a 2x6 air tight with AUF, if i don't feed every 5 minutes by the clock my fire is out, does Air over Fire make that much difference in fuel consumption?
    In theory, yes. Search the trader there are lots of posts on it. Under fire basically increases your wood consumption by 50%+ and increases boil rate less than that, so not worth it to me, unless you have tons of free wood.
    AOF or air over fire focuses on complete combustion in the firebox and under the pans(turbulence). That way you can load and the fuel will be used to boil sap instead of wasted up the chimney. I've been out of the loop for a few years on all the latest greatest, but that was what manufacturers claimed.
    Pop in a loud high pressure blower (not a squirrel cage.. think bounce house blower) and you load less and have higher GPH.. they just put a manifold around the doors and firebox, mix 75% air over fire, and 25% under and youre good to go.
    Last edited by WoodButcher; 08-03-2022 at 06:16 PM.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Chardon, OH
    Posts
    446

    Default

    Main panels on the roof are done and siding is up and ready to dry for a month or so. Windows in as well.
    Once the siding is dry I'll stain everything and then install the battens and then restain with the battens on so I don't see any unstained wood underneath the battens.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/rF2ZGBWqNGRnoX4o9

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