Can you use a single wall 8” stovepipe through a metal ceiling

[nhdog]

i don't see why you don't think about using a section of insulated stove pipe. the cost is about the same as the double wall pipe you are talking about. the requirement is only 2'' from something that will burn plus you will be able to get the roof jack (flashing) and storm collar to fit, no fear of fire or leaking. if you don't get stainless you will be replacing it every so often (more $). i ran single stainless single pipe up from the evap then went to insulated up through the roof with insulated pipe. no ,leaks, no replacement problems, no fear of fire, and my roof is wood and shingle

[Swingpure]

i don't see why you don't think about using a section of insulated stove pipe. the cost is about the same as the double wall pipe you are talking about. the requirement is only 2'' from something that will burn plus you will be able to get the roof jack (flashing) and storm collar to fit, no fear of fire or leaking. if you don't get stainless you will be replacing it every so often (more $). i ran single stainless single pipe up from the evap then went to insulated up through the roof with insulated pipe. no ,leaks, no replacement problems, no fear of fire, and my roof is wood and shingle

Thanks when I Google insulated stove pipe, it comes as the same as double wall stove pipe. Is there a difference?

[nhdog]

you will find that most all insulated stove pipe only require 2'' of clearance from burnable material. you can use regular single wall pipe from your evap then there is an adapter that allows you to add the insulated pipe up through the roof. if you would like pictures p.m. me your email and i can send them

[ebliese]

Interesting detail about wrapping the pipe with insulation and it burning. Did you use regular fiberglass insulation?

I used ceramic fire blanket left over from bricking the arch. Much later on, the company I bought my evaporator from also mentioned to not wrap the base stack with insulation as it needs the air to avoid overheating. I suspect this was the problem I had, even though I only wrapped the pipe where it went through the roof.

[Swingpure]

I went to a local hardware store to talk stovepipes and to a local fireplace store, and talked to two friends and also talked to the gentleman who I will be getting the base stack from. Confusing information, but I think I learnt a few things and know what I want to do, almost.

I learnt that at least in our area, what you call double wall stove pipe is different from chimney pipe. Double wall is for inside the building and chimney pipe is for outdoors, but could be used indoors as well.

You have to support the chimney pipe.

What is not clear to me, some say the single wall pipe can fit directly into the chimney pipe and others say you need an adapter that is made for a particular manufacturers chimney pipe.

The gentleman who I am buying the base stack from says the single pipe can go directly into the chimney pipe, and he may have some reasonably priced chimney pipe, so I may just get it all from him.

I will have the base stack, then add on the chimney pipe. I will build a redneck support for the chimney pipe. And it will go through a fairly tight hole in the metal roof and I will have a storm collar for the chimney pipe.

[wobbletop]

I found the Selkirk product line the cheapest when I was looking. You can also call their technical help line to get information on your install.

I also found their manual helpful. https://www.selkirkcorp.com/literatu...Guide_-_US.pdf

The single wall pipe is secured by your heater at the bottom, then attaches to the adapter that fit's at the bottom of your ceiling, and then it's double wall insulated from there up. The outside chimney must be supported if it's beyond a certain length. I didn't need to.

[nhdog]

i have done the same thing a few years ago using their super vent pipe model jsc. it is sold here in canada by most all the big box stores selling lumber and hardware. it is the perfect safe way to go,easy for anyone to put up by them self. i have had no problems and it will out far outlast me. here is the link to the canada info.

http://www.supervent.ca/-/media/selk...c-jsc001-e.pdf

[maple flats]

I ran single wall 12" pipe from my base stack and up thru the roof. Then at about 2' above the top of the base stack I had 1.5" 2300F rated ceramic insulation that was clamped to the pipe and it ran up until tight against the underside of the roof steel. At the bottom edge of the "clamp" I slitted and bent it in to keep the insulation from slipping downward. I had to get a fire dept inspection because I was allowing visitors in while boiling. They liked it. I made the clamp out of 28 ga galvanized sheet metal and folded 1" of it 90 degrees to form the clamp on one edge, on the other I folded it out, then doubled it back at 180 degrees, then at 1" another 90 so it slid under the first side. Then I drilled 1/4" holes and added 1/4" bolts to clamp it snug. When installed it was about 13.5" O.D..
That worked fine from 2007-2020 when I quit boiling. The 1.5" ceramic blanket kept the heat from the trusses, it got barely warm to the touch.
Above the roof, I covered the somewhat tight opening around the stack with a tight fitting oversized collar that kept about 99.99% of the moisture from running down the stack. With a extremely hard rain I occasionally got a slight dampness around the base stack. I suspect it was blown in under the collar.

[Pdiamond]

What you are saying is that you made a double wall pipe, is that correct Dave?

[Swingpure]

I ran single wall 12" pipe from my base stack and up thru the roof. Then at about 2' above the top of the base stack I had 1.5" 2300F rated ceramic insulation that was clamped to the pipe and it ran up until tight against the underside of the roof steel. At the bottom edge of the "clamp" I slitted and bent it in to keep the insulation from slipping downward. I had to get a fire dept inspection because I was allowing visitors in while boiling. They liked it. I made the clamp out of 28 ga galvanized sheet metal and folded 1" of it 90 degrees to form the clamp on one edge, on the other I folded it out, then doubled it back at 180 degrees, then at 1" another 90 so it slid under the first side. Then I drilled 1/4" holes and added 1/4" bolts to clamp it snug. When installed it was about 13.5" O.D..
That worked fine from 2007-2020 when I quit boiling. The 1.5" ceramic blanket kept the heat from the trusses, it got barely warm to the touch.
Above the roof, I covered the somewhat tight opening around the stack with a tight fitting oversized collar that kept about 99.99% of the moisture from running down the stack. With a extremely hard rain I occasionally got a slight dampness around the base stack. I suspect it was blown in under the collar.

I am trying to get a reasonably priced piece of 4 foot chimney pipe, but if not, your idea sound good. Could I use large stainless steel hose clamps to hold the ceramic blanket around the single pipe?

Thanks