Mismatched syrup and flue pan

[M&M Maple Grove]

I picked up a used evaporator a few years back that consists of a Grimm Lighting(Vermont) 2x4 raised flue and a Small Brothers(Quebec) 3x3 syrup pan on a modified oil tank arch. I read somewhere these companies were at one point talking about a merger but it didn’t work out and they both kept the name “lightning“. Classic oil tank build with the sides spread out wider to accommodate the syrup pan. Typical arch extension in the back for the flue pan.

As you may already have guessed… Dark syrup. This year, I fabricated a parallel flow preheater based on this article - https://mapleresearch.org/wp-content.../preheater.pdf
And a custom hood build seen here - https://youtube.com/watch?v=5CSPlxm-I94&feature=share

In my quest to make lighter syrup, I built an air injection “bubbler” for the flue pan this year at the 11th hour based on the thread from red roof maples(thanks Russ!) - http://mapletrader.com/community/sho...er-1.0!/page16

This definitely showed improvement but still on the line of medium amber. I intend to build a bubbler for the syrup pan during the off-season in addition to a AUF and AOF system. I am working on a single post 4 x 40 for next year as well.

So my question is, what can I do to counteract the oversized syrup pan and fire box? Some options I was considering was while re-breaking the arch for the AOF, I would pack out the walls with insulation and brick straight up to the pan essentially only leaving a 2 x 3 area that is exposed to the bottom of the pan.

Another approach I was thinking was instead of going straight up, have the bricks splay out around 6 inches below the pan where the AOF injectors will be and continue to the edge of the pan.

Thoughts?

[Russell Lampron]

That's a strange combination and I doubt that you'll be able to get it to work efficiently. I feel that you would be better off having someone like Bill Mason (WF Mason) build a 2x3 syrup pan for you. The flames need to touch as much of the bottom of the pan as possible to get the most efficient boil and to build a gradient.

I'm assuming that the flue pan is soldered and possibly contains lead, something to consider before spending any money. I don't know what year Leader bought the G H Grimm company so I don't know if they used lead free solder before the buy out. Also Small Brothers went out of business in 1995 which means that the solder in that pan may also contain lead. The industry started phasing in lead free solder around 1990 so if the SB pan was made after that it may be lead free.

[M&M Maple Grove]

Thank you for your response Russ. I’m honored i’ve checked in on your thread for years.
The flue pan has a label stating “lead free“. I couldn’t find anything on the syrup pan but I tested it for lead and it showed negative.

Considering the effectiveness of the bubblemaster 1.0 I assume I could lighten the grade a bit more but wouldn’t be seeing any golden delicate. I was thinking if I narrowed the syrup pan surface area that the bubbler would keep everything moving in those areas but I was concerned about how it would affect the gradient.

The back of the oil tank section of the arch is boxed off to accommodate the width of the flue pan. I was considering extending that flat surface to the front of the arch and seeking out a 2 x 3 syrup pan. The surface serves as a nice place to cook on cast iron as well. Here’s a quick vid of The surface I am referring to being put to good use:
https://youtube.com/shorts/LGWHbvyiZfw?feature=share

Thanks again. Sugaring is similar to life. The more you know, the more you realize you don’t.