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Thread: Releaser to mainline plumbing, what's the most elegant solution

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    River Falls, WI
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    Default Releaser to mainline plumbing, what's the most elegant solution

    I have two 1" mainlines meeting at my new electric releaser the releaser has two 2"fpt ports for sap. I adapted that to 1" pvc to exit my pump house (releaser is only 8" from he wall, so it's very short pvc. From there Id love to hear ideas on how to proceed. I have stainless insert x insert ball valves, I also have fpt x insert ball valves, some stainless hex nipples, stainless camlocks, treaded and barbed, and a couple barbed to tri clamp ferrules. Ideally each mainline would have the fewest fittings possible, but include a valve and some type of quick connect (camlock, tri clamp, pvc union). Anyone got a great way of going about this? I'm also not opposed to buying some tri clamp ball valves, and tri clamp to thread adapters, but I think that's gonna be more expensive than what I have on hand and I only want to do it if it's got a clear advantage over another method.

    Thanks!!
    -Ryan


    Went off the deep end. Might be in over my head...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
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    Being that short, I'd run a 1" or even a 1.5" off the releaser, then a tee to attach 1 line 1" out the side and a 1" line in the end all in the same opening in the releaser manifold..
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    River Falls, WI
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    Quote Originally Posted by maple flats View Post
    Being that short, I'd run a 1" or even a 1.5" off the releaser, then a tee to attach 1 line 1" out the side and a 1" line in the end all in the same opening in the releaser manifold..
    Thanks Dave, so is the thinking behind that to eliminate one set of plumbing off the releaser just to reduce the possible sources of leaks? And once you get pcv to male threads, screw on a fpt X insert ball valve and just add a tri clamp or camlock upstream?
    -Ryan


    Went off the deep end. Might be in over my head...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Lanark, ON
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    My electric releaser setup is much better now after making some errors on our mechanical releasers.

    I'd do the following:
    2" MPT to 1" FPT bushing into the releaser
    1" MPT cam lock (male or female end, doesn't matter) followed by the other half of the cam lock also MPT
    1" ball valve FPT
    1" stainless MPT thread to insert
    Connect your 1" mainline pipe to the barbed SS insert with a hose clamp

    You can reverse the order of the cam lock to the 2nd mainline so they can't be reversed, if it matters.
    4,600 Taps on vacuum
    9,400 gallons storage
    3 tower CDL RO
    3.5'x14' Lapierre Force 5
    Twitter & Instagram: @ennismaple
    www.ennismaple.com

  5. #5
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    Mar 2004
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    Northeastern Pa
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    Just curious Ennis? Why the cam locks? Do you move the releaser in off season?

    Craig

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Lanark, ON
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    Craig - yes they get removed from the woods to be cleaned and stored in the sugar camp. It also allows us to easily take them off the tank if they need cleaning or maintenance in-season.
    4,600 Taps on vacuum
    9,400 gallons storage
    3 tower CDL RO
    3.5'x14' Lapierre Force 5
    Twitter & Instagram: @ennismaple
    www.ennismaple.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Northeastern Pa
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    432

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    What kind of vacuum do you run and do they ever leak? Thanks, I like the idea..

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