Originally Posted by
Openwater
So it sounds like you don't recommend that I shorten the rod length connected to float. I've never used this kind of float valve before and I think I was picturing it functioning all wrong. I assumed the sap came in thru the valve in "pulses"; the sap level drops, valve opens, sap level comes up, and valve closes. So instead of the valve opening and closing constantly, it sounds like the valve opening/aperture stays pretty constant so there's a constant, uniform flow of sap thru the valve. I've disassembled the valve and tried to figure out how to take up the slack/play there seems to be between the action of the float arm dropping and the valve cracking open.
I didn't shorten mine. I never had a problem with the slop in the valve, then again, it was the first one I'd ever used. I boiled 3 seasons with it. There will be a pulse when you draw off syrup, and maybe miniature pulses from the level dropping due to evaporation between draw offs, but that's what the valve is supposed to do, same as a manufactured, dedicated float on a "real" evaporator. There are several different designs of those, both vertical bottom feed, top feed and horizontal. They all do the same thing. You could put it on, fill up the pans and head tank and open your draw off to a trickle to simulate evaporation and see what it does.
'12 15 jugs - Steam pans
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