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Thread: Float box set-up and floats

  1. #21
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    So it sounds like you don't recommend that I shorten the rod length connected to float. I've never used this kind of float valve before and I think I was picturing it functioning all wrong. I assumed the sap came in thru the valve in "pulses"; the sap level drops, valve opens, sap level comes up, and valve closes. So instead of the valve opening and closing constantly, it sounds like the valve opening/aperture stays pretty constant so there's a constant, uniform flow of sap thru the valve. I've disassembled the valve and tried to figure out how to take up the slack/play there seems to be between the action of the float arm dropping and the valve cracking open.
    2020 - 1st year - 13 black walnut taps - 4 bottles syrup
    2021 - 50 taps, 22 black walnuts/28 red maples - 4 gallons syrup
    2022 - 53 taps, 11 black walnuts/42 reds, 20 on vacuum

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Openwater View Post
    So it sounds like you don't recommend that I shorten the rod length connected to float. I've never used this kind of float valve before and I think I was picturing it functioning all wrong. I assumed the sap came in thru the valve in "pulses"; the sap level drops, valve opens, sap level comes up, and valve closes. So instead of the valve opening and closing constantly, it sounds like the valve opening/aperture stays pretty constant so there's a constant, uniform flow of sap thru the valve. I've disassembled the valve and tried to figure out how to take up the slack/play there seems to be between the action of the float arm dropping and the valve cracking open.
    Openwater, I have a valve similar to yours. I eliminated the slop in the pivot points by drilling the holes the same size as the pin or bolt that goes through it. Made a big difference!
    2x3 Patrick Phaneuf pan
    Homemade arch
    100+ taps
    Sugar Shack in future
    Wife into it as much as me
    Also do homebrew

    http://s928.photobucket.com/albums/ad121/ZMANSYRUP/

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z/MAN View Post
    I eliminated the slop in the pivot points by drilling the holes the same size as the pin or bolt that goes through it
    Could you show me which holes you drilled out on the pic of my valve?
    From what I can tell, all the slop seems to occur because of the size difference in the width of the upper part of the lever and the hole in the stopper that it goes into.
    See attached pics.
    apart valve.jpg
    valve stopper.jpg
    2020 - 1st year - 13 black walnut taps - 4 bottles syrup
    2021 - 50 taps, 22 black walnuts/28 red maples - 4 gallons syrup
    2022 - 53 taps, 11 black walnuts/42 reds, 20 on vacuum

  4. #24
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    In your picture the bottom bolt holds the float arm tight so it is fine. The top bolt and the holes in the body and the pivot arm have to be the exact same size. Any play at this pivot point will mess up the constant steady flow you desire. If there is any play where the arm meets the plunger this will also need to be corrected but I am not sure how to do it.
    2x3 Patrick Phaneuf pan
    Homemade arch
    100+ taps
    Sugar Shack in future
    Wife into it as much as me
    Also do homebrew

    http://s928.photobucket.com/albums/ad121/ZMANSYRUP/

  5. #25
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    The holes of the valve body and pivot arm are very close in size, and the bolt that connects them is the right size so there's no play at this pivot point; the only action at this point is rotation/pivoting on the bolt, no shifting. All the play seems to be occurring between the upper part of pivot arm and the "too big" hole of the plunger. I think the only way to take out that slop would be to make a bushing insert that goes in the plunger hole that has an inner diameter closer to the upper pivot arm width.
    2020 - 1st year - 13 black walnut taps - 4 bottles syrup
    2021 - 50 taps, 22 black walnuts/28 red maples - 4 gallons syrup
    2022 - 53 taps, 11 black walnuts/42 reds, 20 on vacuum

  6. #26
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    Jul 2012
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    Lawrence County Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by Openwater View Post
    So it sounds like you don't recommend that I shorten the rod length connected to float. I've never used this kind of float valve before and I think I was picturing it functioning all wrong. I assumed the sap came in thru the valve in "pulses"; the sap level drops, valve opens, sap level comes up, and valve closes. So instead of the valve opening and closing constantly, it sounds like the valve opening/aperture stays pretty constant so there's a constant, uniform flow of sap thru the valve. I've disassembled the valve and tried to figure out how to take up the slack/play there seems to be between the action of the float arm dropping and the valve cracking open.
    I didn't shorten mine. I never had a problem with the slop in the valve, then again, it was the first one I'd ever used. I boiled 3 seasons with it. There will be a pulse when you draw off syrup, and maybe miniature pulses from the level dropping due to evaporation between draw offs, but that's what the valve is supposed to do, same as a manufactured, dedicated float on a "real" evaporator. There are several different designs of those, both vertical bottom feed, top feed and horizontal. They all do the same thing. You could put it on, fill up the pans and head tank and open your draw off to a trickle to simulate evaporation and see what it does.
    2012 15 jugs
    2017 125 3/16 - 18"x 6' drop flue set up
    2018 240 3/16 - Deer Run 125 RO
    2019 450 3/16 - Converted RO to electric, Procon 330 pump & added a membrane
    2020 600 3/16 - Maple Pro 2x6 Raised Flue, added AOF/AUF
    2021 570 3/16 - Built a SS steam hood, new Smoky Lake SS filter press
    2022 800 3/16 - Upgrade RO to 4 4x40's,Procon 660, adding a Sap Guzzler to 400 taps

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