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Thread: 2x8 oil fire conversion

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Esko,MN
    Posts
    290

    Default 2x8 oil fire conversion

    I have a 2x8 arch. It was AOF and AUF wood. The recommendation at the time was to have 1/3rd of the flu pan exposed to the combustion chamber prior to bringing the back of that arch to 1/2" of touching the drop flues. That means my insulated combustion chamber is 54" long. I am going to use a Carlin 301 and mount it on the back wall of the combustion chamber and point it to the front of the arch. I want the flame to heat the combustion chamber then as it hits the 2'x2' syrup pan, the heat will lick the bottom of the pan and reverse course to go through the flues and exit the stack. The Carlin manual recommends a minimum of 23 inches to the back wall on a non-insulated install or 18" on an insulated install. These installs are not on maple arches. My question is, do I need to shorten the combustion chamber to bring the back wall forward to accomplish the task. I have no idea how far the fire goes out from a Carlin 301 using a 3-4 gph nozzle. I would like to see an even boil in the syrup pan and through the flues. Previously, I had a hot area where the syrup and flu pan met and I'm trying to get improvement in the whole boil of the rig. Thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated from those with experience using oil either front or rear fired.
    Chad

    2014: 12 taps, 5 gal buckets
    2015: 15 taps on bags
    2016: 150 taps: 100 on bags, 50 on 3/16" natural vac, 2x8 AUF/AOF Homebuilt Arch, 2x8 SL Drop Flu & Auto Draw, SL Propane Canner/Bottler
    2017: 225 taps: Built Lean to, Added SL hood, preheater, concentric exhaust, SL SS 7" SB Filter Press
    2018: 180 taps: Added Shurflo to 50 - 3/16", Auto fill sensor to head tank
    2019: No tapping
    2020: 175 taps
    2021: 300 taps, homemade RO and releaser
    2022: 600+ taps

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Orford Quebec
    Posts
    39

    Default

    I am going through the same process and have am using some fire brick to modify the fire box, a little trial and error, monitor the evaporation rate and the front pan boiling rate for different configurations

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Central new york
    Posts
    410

    Default

    http://mapletrader.com/community/sho...oil-conversion we just did this last year, we will be going down to a 3 GPH 45* B nozzle this year
    A&A 2x8 raised flue with hoods and preheater, converted to oil with carlin 201 for 2021
    8x12 kitchen
    8x12 canning room
    H20 7.5 1200 Econox for 2018 added 2nd membrane for 2020
    H2O 10" filter press half bank
    H2O 2430 gallon storage tank
    700+ 5/16 on vacuum, 1000+ on 3/16

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Esko,MN
    Posts
    290

    Default

    Windy;

    Thanks for the input. I read the post and even asked a question while you were building the arch last year. I gutted the AOF/AUF system, took out the blower, shortened the back wall to 30" from the front and mounted the gun on the back wall facing foreward. The back wall used to be ramped but now is vertical. I used a Carlin 301 and put a 3.5gph 60 degree nozzle in the gun. Since the nozzles are rated at 100psi, the 3.5 gph nozzle will actually burn closer to 4 gph as the pump pressure is set at 150psi from the manufacturer. It's all reinsulated and ready to go. I haven't fired it yet but will relatively soon.
    Chad

    2014: 12 taps, 5 gal buckets
    2015: 15 taps on bags
    2016: 150 taps: 100 on bags, 50 on 3/16" natural vac, 2x8 AUF/AOF Homebuilt Arch, 2x8 SL Drop Flu & Auto Draw, SL Propane Canner/Bottler
    2017: 225 taps: Built Lean to, Added SL hood, preheater, concentric exhaust, SL SS 7" SB Filter Press
    2018: 180 taps: Added Shurflo to 50 - 3/16", Auto fill sensor to head tank
    2019: No tapping
    2020: 175 taps
    2021: 300 taps, homemade RO and releaser
    2022: 600+ taps

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