Hi all, I’m putting in a new wet dry system with only 2% grade so I plan on putting a 2x2 post every ten feet to prevent sags. Could anyone share pictures or descriptions of the best ways to attach the hi tensile to the posts?
Thanks!
Hi all, I’m putting in a new wet dry system with only 2% grade so I plan on putting a 2x2 post every ten feet to prevent sags. Could anyone share pictures or descriptions of the best ways to attach the hi tensile to the posts?
Thanks!
Andy's Own Maple
Andy Kinter (4th + generation maple producer)
Approx 790 taps on vacuum
3x10 nat. gas fired raised flue small bros.
600 gph Lapierre RO
Fine collection of used bulk tanks
Kubota MX5100 sap hauler
2 hives (that I don't spend enough time on)
A great family that works together to make syrup!
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Andys...27718203945398
http://photobucket.com/mapleack
Are you making your own posts or do you have a source? I've been using steel tee posts, it gets expensive, i'd love to see a cheaper alternative.
Jacob
2024 - 57 Gallons - Short season, many and varied problems remedied in short order! - No buckets!
2023 - 38 Gallons - RO broke, Buckets didn't run, rebuilt vacuum pump mid-season, still made good syrup!
2022 - 52 Gallons - DIY RO, 50% less fuel, no late nights in the shack!
2021 - 48 Gallons - new pans, new arch, lots of new taps and tubing
2020 - 32 Gallons
2019 - 27 Gallons
Andy's Own Maple
Andy Kinter (4th + generation maple producer)
Approx 790 taps on vacuum
3x10 nat. gas fired raised flue small bros.
600 gph Lapierre RO
Fine collection of used bulk tanks
Kubota MX5100 sap hauler
2 hives (that I don't spend enough time on)
A great family that works together to make syrup!
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Andys...27718203945398
http://photobucket.com/mapleack
I set up a 2,600' wet dry system in 2013 and posted the piping with maple and hard hack posts every 10'.(posts on top of the ground) That was a big mistake. The maple started to rot quickly and the smaller poles sunk into the ground in wet areas. Over 2 seasons, I replaced almost all of the posts with white cedar that I milled from my woods. (I sharpened the post and pounded them into the ground.) Second big mistake. After three or four seasons, the cedar posts started to rot. Now I am using 1 3/4" x 1 1/2" pressure treated sharpened posts that I ripped out of PT 2/6's (the 2/6's are the most economical). The PT is obviously more expensive that maple posts or the milled cedar, but it will be the last time I have to replace the posts.
I use 20d galvanized nails between the wire and the pipe to hold the pipe in place. When a tree or a large branch falls on the line, the force just bends the nail downward , the wire slips off the nail, and the pipe goes to the ground. Most of the time the pipe in undamaged and the line can be set back into place in a short time after the wood is cut off the line.
Joe
2004- 470 taps on gravity and buckets
2006- 590 taps on gravity and buckets 300 gph RO
2009- 845 taps on vacuum no buckets, 600 gph RO
2010- 925 taps on vacuum new 2 stage vacuum pump
2014- 3045 taps on vacuum, new 1200 gph RO
2015- 3104 taps on vacuum
2017- 3213 taps on vacuum
3' x 10' oil fired evaporator with steamaway
I think the 2x2 locust is an excellent choice. I'm not a fan of driving the posts - I like to kick off the loose stuff down to bare ground and rest the butt directly on the ground. I also prefer to tie-wire the lines to the post rather than use staples. Staples are a PIA to remove if you need to adjust the lines. If the post sinks in - loosen the tie-wire and reattach the lines at the correct elevation.
I tried driven used 2x2 steel sign posts since I had tons (literally) of the material. I even have a gas-powered driver. Theoretically, it should work very well since the square tube has holes making it perfect for attachments that could be adjusted. My problem was that ground was too boney to drive them straight so they looked bad and didn't hold the straight lines I needed. I still use some in special areas like pairs at entrance and exit to culverts (forming an H-shaped bent).
Road culverts are always a problem for me partly since they are almost always set at a slope and alignment for drainage and not for sap lines unless they are installed for that purpose only. The H-shaped bents help to keep the lines at the same pitch throughout the culvert and allows a transition back to the slope beyond. The driven bent can be used as both a support and a hold-down which is necessary when you make an intermittent transition the line slope.
Ken
Ken & Sherry
Williston, VT
16x34 Sugarhouse
1,500 taps on high vacuum, Electric Releaser & CDL Sap Lifter
Wood-Fired Leader 30"x10' Vortex Arch & Max Raised Flue with Rev Syrup Pan & CDL1200 RO
https://www.facebook.com/pumpkinhillmaple/
I also use 2x2 posts to support my mainlines. I attach it to my posts after the wire is tight but before I run the tubing. That way it does not drop down because of the weight of the tubing. I use a wire tie folded in half and fastened with a deck screw. I will try to get a picture later today when I am at the sugar house.
First introduced to making maple syrup in 1969
Making syrup every year since 1979
3 x 10 oil fired
Revolution syrup and max flue pan
Almost 1300 taps total with 900 on high vacuum
Bought first Marcland drawoff in 1997, still going strong.
Andy's Own Maple
Andy Kinter (4th + generation maple producer)
Approx 790 taps on vacuum
3x10 nat. gas fired raised flue small bros.
600 gph Lapierre RO
Fine collection of used bulk tanks
Kubota MX5100 sap hauler
2 hives (that I don't spend enough time on)
A great family that works together to make syrup!
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Andys...27718203945398
http://photobucket.com/mapleack
The point about wire ties being too weak is important. That is why I use nails that will bend. When I first started with mainline in 2003, I was sold #14 gauge wire to tire back the mainline to trees. It was difficult to use, but durable. Too durable. I have had a number of lines heavily damaged by the #14 wire tiebacks. Using an semi durable method to attach the wire to the post will result in very little actual damage to the plastic line.
Joe
2004- 470 taps on gravity and buckets
2006- 590 taps on gravity and buckets 300 gph RO
2009- 845 taps on vacuum no buckets, 600 gph RO
2010- 925 taps on vacuum new 2 stage vacuum pump
2014- 3045 taps on vacuum, new 1200 gph RO
2015- 3104 taps on vacuum
2017- 3213 taps on vacuum
3' x 10' oil fired evaporator with steamaway
We also use 2x2 posts and I cut a few small notches in the posts ahead of time to hold the wire
I have seen quite a few different techniques used from nails, screws, zipties and wire ties all in "professional" tubing installations. I don't think there is one perfect way to do it. I now generally use wire ties as they are adjustable and easily break or fail when a tree falls on the line. But that is just me in my small scale operation...
As other have pointed out, what method you use will likely depend upon the type of support you use. Any wood will rot when in contact with the ground, even cedar, locust or other rot resistant wood. As the post sinks into the ground, the lines drop and then need to be adjusted to maintain the ideal slope. There is an outfit in Quebec that makes a plastic support for a 2x2 post that acts as a barrier between the end grain of the wood and the soil. I can't find their website at the moment but they are very cheap and I think D+G also sells them.
Any long term solution will be adjustable as the inevitable will occur...
About 750 taps on High Vac.
2.5 x 8 Intens-O-Fire
Airtech 3 hp LR Pump
Springtech Elite 500 RO
14 x 24 Timber Frame SugarHouse
16 x 22 Sap Shed w/ 1500 gal. + 700 gal. tanks
www.littlehogbackfarm.com