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Thread: My plan

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swingpure View Post
    I will test it with a candy thermometer, hydrotherm and a refractometer. My goal is to get it to between 67 and 67.5 Brix.
    No need to do all that. Thermometer will only get you in the ballpark. Once you're close, use a hydrotherm (correctly) and you'll be fine. Refractometers, although they can be useful, are sensitive to lots of different errors, particularly with hot syrup. 67-67.5 Brix is a bit dense...it'll filter a tad harder and you will see crystal formation in your jars pretty quickly. Shoot for 66.5-67 Brix.

    If you're going to mix syrup between runs, check the flavor before doing that. You don't want to mix nasty-tasting stuff (it could happen for various reasons) with good stuff and run a bunch of syrup.
    Last edited by DrTimPerkins; 10-05-2021 at 08:19 AM.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

  2. #22
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    DrTimPerkins: “What do you mean by "decent slope"? Any flat parts...if so, where in the run and how long?”

    All five runs have slope all of the way. In some cases if you think of a clock where 3 o’clock as flat, the worst I have is where the little hand is at 2:30, most of the slope is at 2:00 and some is at 1:30 or steeper, if that makes sense. My steepest parts are at the start, the least slope parts are in the middle and then it goes steeper for the final 75’+ final run to the barrel. Each of those areas are about a third of the run. Two of the five runs do not have a shallow middle area.





    “Did you have actual 3/16" spouts, or 5/16" spouts with 3/16" tubing connectors?”

    I have 17/64 spouts for the 3/16 tubing and 5/16 spouts for the buckets.



    “No, do NOT use regular garden hose. These contain regrind rubber with lots of nasty things in them. Use clear milk hose (preferably), although some will use RV potable water hose. “

    Thanks

  3. #23
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    Today I did pick up 500 more feet of tubing, various fittings and the 5/16 drill bit. When I got back, I ran twine through the path of my fifth run. I really find it a valuable exercise, as I am able to remove tripping hazards, remove branches that are in the way and find the best route for the twine (tubing). You learn what side of intermediate trees to go on, and how high up on a tree to place the line, to ensure proper slope. When it comes time to install the tubing, I just have to follow the twine.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrTimPerkins View Post
    No need to do all that. Thermometer will only get you in the ballpark. Once you're close, use a hydrotherm (correctly) and you'll be fine. Refractometers, although they can be useful, are sensitive to lots of different errors, particularly with hot syrup. 67-67.5 Brix is a bit dense...it'll filter a tad harder and you will see crystal formation in your jars pretty quickly. Shoot for 66.5-67 Brix.

    If you're going to mix syrup between runs, check the flavor before doing that. You don't want to mix nasty-tasting stuff (it could happen for various reasons) with good stuff and run a bunch of syrup.
    Thank you! For some reason I thought 67 - 67.5 Brix was perfect syrup, but I will go for 66.5 to 67 this spring.

    Thanks, I will keep each boil batch separate. Lots to learn. Thanks again.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrTimPerkins View Post
    No, do NOT use regular garden hose. These contain regrind rubber with lots of nasty things in them. Use clear milk hose (preferably), although some will use RV potable water hose.
    The RV potable water hose looks a lot more affordable. Seeing how I have blown past my original budget ten fold, I will likely chose that.

    I have been scratching my head on what pump to get. Lots of great suggestions. I tend to be a rules follower and I have trouble accepting a pump that is not NSF/ANSI61 Certified. Am I requiring too much from a pump and are there any pumps, or pump types that you recommend?

    Originally I was just looking for something to pump out of a barrel into buckets, but as the tap numbers and lines have increased, I am starting to think I will pump from my four 55 gallon barrels into 55 gallon barrels near my evaporator.
    Last edited by Swingpure; 10-05-2021 at 08:17 PM.

  6. #26
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    Last night, after posting I would have 80 taps, I thought holy frig, that is a lot. How much firewood would I need for that and at a minimum, it would be 5.25 face cords. Driving the 1.5 hours to the CDL store this morning and then back, I thought about it, and thought how I could downsize somewhat, without giving up the lines.

    I decided if I dropped the 12 remote buckets, that would save a lot of time and bring me down to 4.5 face cords required. Ironically it would bring me down to 16 sap pickup locations, just like my original 16 buckets were. 4 locations on lines and 12 easy to get to buckets. If I do get a pump and hose to transfer the sap from my collection barrels, to my barrels beside the evaporator that will be a big time saver.

    I know that I will have many, many boiling and finishing and bottling hours ahead, but dropping those 12 remote bucket locations is the right thing to do. Besides if I gain 25% improvement on sap volume, from the 3/16 lines, I will make up the volume from the lost taps.

    I also know I have a ton to learn and many mistakes to be made, but this is why I don’t mind having more than my original 16 buckets on my maiden year. More boils, means more i will learn and a greater chance for success.

  7. #27
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swingpure View Post
    DrTimPerkins: “What do you mean by "decent slope"? Any flat parts...if so, where in the run and how long?”

    All five runs have slope all of the way. In some cases if you think of a clock where 3 o’clock as flat, the worst I have is where the little hand is at 2:30, most of the slope is at 2:00 and some is at 1:30 or steeper, if that makes sense. My steepest parts are at the start, the least slope parts are in the middle and then it goes steeper for the final 75’+ final run to the barrel. Each of those areas are about a third of the run. Two of the five runs do not have a shallow middle area.





    “Did you have actual 3/16" spouts, or 5/16" spouts with 3/16" tubing connectors?”

    I have 17/64 spouts for the 3/16 tubing and 5/16 spouts for the buckets.



    “No, do NOT use regular garden hose. These contain regrind rubber with lots of nasty things in them. Use clear milk hose (preferably), although some will use RV potable water hose. “

    Thanks
    1:30 is a 45 degree pitch. Be careful on that pitch, it should be difficult to stand on let alone drill tap holes and run tubing on. A potential nightmare for the sugarmaker. Falls on slope of this pitch that are on a slippery surface such as a roof or hard pack corn snow can result in a uncontrolled continuous fall resulting in severe injury or death.

    2:00 is a 33 degree pitch. Dream like for the sugarmaker but still potentially dangerous.

    2:30 is a 15 degree pitch. Dream like and relatively safe for the sugarmaker.

    This terrain sounds steep enough for VERY effective 5/16 natural vacuum tubing given you have runs down this slope to the collection tank of 75 feet or more. "More" in the case of more pitch and more taps and of course that means more vacuum up to a point.


    Want to trade properties?

    By the way I recommend you get Micro Spikes for your feet.
    Last edited by Sugar Bear; 10-06-2021 at 10:12 AM.
    If you think it's easy to make good money in maple syrup .... then your obviously good at stealing somebody's Maple Syrup.

    Favorite Tree: Sugar Maple
    Most Hated Animal: Sap Sucker
    Most Loved Animal: Devon Rex Cat
    Favorite Kingpin: Bruce Bascom
    40 Sugar Maple Taps ... 23 in CT and 17 in NY .... 29 on gravity tubing and 11 on 5G buckets ... 2019 Totals 508 gallons of sap, 7 boils, 11.4 gallons of syrup.
    1 Girlfriend that gives away all my syrup to her friends.

  8. #28
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    Sorry for asking so many questions. I do Google a lot and search a lot on this site and then read as many pertinent threads as I can to learn. The more I read, the more questions I have.

    Today reading one thread, a poster talked about scorching his syrup while pouring it out of the steam pan. After all of that work of collecting and boiling, a batch gets ruined at the last second.

    My steam pans sit up a bit, making it easy to lift. Let’s say I boiled 60 gallons of sap and now have almost three inches of almost syrup in the final pan. I will be finishing it somewhere else. My plan is to lift the final pan right out of the position it is in, set it down on the cinder block edge, scoop out what I can into my finishing pot, then pick up the steam pan (which has now cooled down a little) and pour the remaining almost syrup into my finishing pot.

    Have I done any “death” moves?

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swingpure View Post
    Sorry for asking so many questions. I do Google a lot and search a lot on this site and then read as many pertinent threads as I can to learn. The more I read, the more questions I have.

    Today reading one thread, a poster talked about scorching his syrup while pouring it out of the steam pan. After all of that work of collecting and boiling, a batch gets ruined at the last second.

    My steam pans sit up a bit, making it easy to lift. Let’s say I boiled 60 gallons of sap and now have almost three inches of almost syrup in the final pan. I will be finishing it somewhere else. My plan is to lift the final pan right out of the position it is in, set it down on the cinder block edge, scoop out what I can into my finishing pot, then pick up the steam pan (which has now cooled down a little) and pour the remaining almost syrup into my finishing pot.

    Have I done any “death” moves?
    When I pour my ( close to syrup pan ) off into a pot after lifting it off the fire, I set it down somewhere ( not back on the fire ) and immediately pour close by waiting sap into the pan. Then back to the fire.

    Never had anything even remotely close to a scorching problem, sometimes I get some temporary warp/movement thumps from the metal with cold sap going into the warm pan but they don't result in any damage to the metal.

    I do not place the empty pan back on the fire for even 1 second without anything in it.
    If you think it's easy to make good money in maple syrup .... then your obviously good at stealing somebody's Maple Syrup.

    Favorite Tree: Sugar Maple
    Most Hated Animal: Sap Sucker
    Most Loved Animal: Devon Rex Cat
    Favorite Kingpin: Bruce Bascom
    40 Sugar Maple Taps ... 23 in CT and 17 in NY .... 29 on gravity tubing and 11 on 5G buckets ... 2019 Totals 508 gallons of sap, 7 boils, 11.4 gallons of syrup.
    1 Girlfriend that gives away all my syrup to her friends.

  10. #30
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    Dec 2015
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    Weston, CT
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    By the way if I am done with sap, I fill them with 4 or 5 inches of water, When the water gets warm I clean the sides with a cloth.

    If you fill them and your fire is still going at all be sure to fill them close to the top. You will be shocked at how much can evaporate overnight even with a dying out fire.

    I have started using the steam pan covers. Both at flame on for faster preheating and and flame off times for overnight covering of simmering sap. And to keep critters out. Although have not had that problem without them.

    I use a pan cover frequently over pan 1 of my 4 pans as pan 1 serves as a preheat pan and the cover provides faster better preheating.
    If you think it's easy to make good money in maple syrup .... then your obviously good at stealing somebody's Maple Syrup.

    Favorite Tree: Sugar Maple
    Most Hated Animal: Sap Sucker
    Most Loved Animal: Devon Rex Cat
    Favorite Kingpin: Bruce Bascom
    40 Sugar Maple Taps ... 23 in CT and 17 in NY .... 29 on gravity tubing and 11 on 5G buckets ... 2019 Totals 508 gallons of sap, 7 boils, 11.4 gallons of syrup.
    1 Girlfriend that gives away all my syrup to her friends.

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