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Thread: How to make syrup darker??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
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    Mapleton Twp, SW Ontario
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    Default How to make syrup darker??

    I didn't want to confuse the issue by hijacking the thread about making lighter syrup...

    I have, what I think is, a weird problem.... I want to make syrup darker and don't know how...

    Been hobby sugaring for a few years now, and have always been a little disappointed in the colour of my syrup.... Always on the dark side.... Wasn't too worried about it, knowing I'd not be winning any ribbons at the fair... and people don't complain about the colour of free syrup....

    This year, I am actually trying to fill some orders, and to my surprise, people want the dark stuff....

    Here's my problem... I've been collecting and boiling to the bitter end this season, and have not been able to get any darker than Amber....
    Have not cleaned my pans since I started... Running 10% concentrate. on a 2x6 drop flue, at 20-25 GPH to 67%
    Have one boil left and would really like it to be dark.
    I think I read somewhere, that a slower boil will produce darker syrup. Is this true?... Or, any other suggestions.???

    Thanks
    Wayne

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    May 2010
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    Savoy, MA
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    Default

    Was going to say the same thing...just boil longer. Batch boiling normally produces darker syrup because of the longer time on the fire. So, instead of drawing off...just run it deeper and essentially just do a batch boil.
    16x24 Timber Frame Sugar House
    Mason 2x4 Evaporator
    90 trees on buckets

  4. #4
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    Default

    There was a great article in the March edition of the Maple News were flavor was discussed at length. In addition to pan depth, one of the variables under discussion was microbes in sap. It was suggested that sap needs to be treated much the same way that yogurt/beer/cheese need to be treated. Microorganisms in sap need to be cultivated to maximize syrup flavor. Too little microbial action is a contributor to low flavor. Too much microbial action leads to ropey syrup. Letting your sap age a little bit may help give you the flavor you desire.
    60ish taps on buckets
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
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    Mapleton Twp, SW Ontario
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    Default

    Thanks folks...

    Funny - Work hard to not let sap sit around or get warm..... Turns out I might need to ease off on this....
    And I finally got my evaporator fine tuned to shallow boil and run at pretty good rates that I'm pretty happy with...... Might need to slow things down a bit...
    Thanks for the help.

  6. #6
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    Eden Prairie, MN
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    Take your draw of syrup and pour it back in the float box. Sam effect as boiling deeper with twice the residence time.
    John
    2x8 Smokylake drop flue with AOF/ AUF
    180 taps on sacks
    75 on 3/16 tubing with shurflo
    Eden Prairie, Minnesota

  7. #7
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    Oneida NY
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    Default

    Some things will help make darker syrup (and yes, I always sell more dark than any other grade) 1. Hold your sap an extra day, unless it will get over 45 degrees F. 2. Boil at 2 or even 2.5" deep. 3. Blend in some darker from other batches, even last year's syrup. That's what I do often, I don't make enough dark to meet demands, so I take a lighter grade (yes, sometimes even Golden) fill my finisher or bottler then very slowly add some dark. You will find it takes very little dark especially if at the darker end of the grade to turn the blend to dark at the middle of the grade. That is where I have the best success.
    I now use a Hanna Checker and record the light transmission percent on every container (In code, not stating what it is). I then start adding some dark syrup (or even very dark if you have it) I'll explain my code at the end. I stir the blend and check the light transmission. I then add more if needed.
    In terms of light transmission I try to get my dark to 35-40%. There was an article in The Maple News giving the math, I was doing it my way for years, so I didn't get that precise trying to use the math. I sometimes need to add almost a qt to change golden to dark, other time a little less or more. Just go slowly. It works well, and as long as the taste of what you were mixing was of good flavor for the grade, the dark will taste like it should.

    My code, for those who may be interested. On my price labels (I use a price gun to mark everything) syrup starts with a 1, then 2 digits for % light transmission. Thus, for examples, a 135 is dark, a 159 is amber , a 180 is golden and a 120 would be very dark.
    Last edited by maple flats; 04-06-2021 at 12:32 PM.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Default

    If you have time you can also boil slower along with boiling deeper. This will get get you the color. Aging sap may get you the flavor.
    The other thing to do is to educate your customer base to like all the grades too. I have a lot of folks asking about our Golden Delicate (FIRE&ICE) syrup made last year. Had to get them to taste it, take some home, and they want it! Humm didnt make much this year.
    I try to keep my process the same and let mother nature make the choice on the syrup outcome.
    Good luck with your dark syrup!
    Regards,
    Chris
    Casbohm Maple and Honey
    625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
    3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
    12" SIRO Filter Press.
    2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
    One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
    Too many Cub Cadets
    Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
    1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck

    www.mapleandhoney.com

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