At what brix do you consider changing syrup pan size

[DocsMapleSyrup]

I have a 2x8 evaporator with 2' syrup pan and 6' drop flu. If I want to RO to a high brix, when should I consider going to a longer syrup pan and shorter flu pan? Is there a point in which you will need a longer syrup pan to allow for carmelization of the syrup? If so, is there a formula or magic brix number.

[Wolfcreek Maple]

What brix are you doing now? what brix are you thinking of going up to? We run a 2x6 2'syrup pan 4' flue pan we concentrate to 12-14 and have no issues, if we were to go higher brix I would personally want a bigger syrup pan and shorter flue pan. Hopefully Dr. Tim will chime in and give you a more scientific answer.

[motowbrowne]

I recall the thinking being around 20%. Up to that concentration, most traditional pan arrangements will work. Though every cooker is different, so I'm sure there's exceptions.

[DrTimPerkins]

If so, is there a formula or magic brix number.

There is no magic brix value, but when you start getting higher than 20 Brix, and certainly if you are going above 25 Brix, you should start thinking of reducing the ratio of backpan to frontpan. You'll want to run your liquid level a good bit deeper.

[calvertbrothers]

I have a 2x6 with a 4ft max flue combo pan. It’s pretty close to a 2x8. My sweet spot is 16 brix. I have ran 22 brix but it gets hectic. Definitely have some extra eyes on it when running the rest of the sugar house.

[Sugarmaker]

I might look at it differently. And remember I boil raw sap in a big old 3 x 10 with 5 foot pans (Drop flue custom pans) with only about 700 taps.
I would tell you to change rigs when you get to 3000 taps. That rig of yours is about perfect as is. Dont change anything!
Do you want to make darker syrup? Boil slower or deep as mentioned.
Keep boiling.
Regards,
Chris

[Mead Maple]

Doc, I’m running a 2x8 drop flue oil fired. Last year was my first season with this rig and I boiled raw saw. It made really nice syrup but I wanted to expand. I ended up buying an older Lapierre 600 with an 8” post. I have run it anywhere from 8% all the way up to 19% and put it through my rig. My set up is 2x3 and 2x5. From boiling raw sap to 19%, I haven’t been worried about getting enough color or flavor. My only trouble is keeping enough flat filters on hand to filter syrup coming off. I’m quickly realizing I’m outgrowing my filtering capabilities. Let me know if I can help more!

[DocsMapleSyrup]

I'm strongly considering changing my arch from wood to a reverse fired oil unit. I would like to have short boils because of the oil, but want a deep rich maple color and flavor. I only will have 500 taps but want to keep my fuel cost per gallon down. I would also like a raised flue setup. In order to get a richer, darker flavor, I was wondering if I needed to go to a 3' syrup, 5' flue pan or would I be able to get the dark color and bold flavor with a 2' syrup and 6' flue pan if I am concentrating in the 15-20% brix range?

[Russell Lampron]

You will find that you will be able to make plenty of dark syrup with your current pan configuration when you are concentrating into the teens. The concentrate will darken in the flue pan and get even darker in the front pan. I built an air injector for my evaporator to reduce that problem and except for the last two seasons I made mostly the best tasting amber around. The last two seasons because of low sugar content and long periods of time between boils most of my syrup was dark.

[maple flats]

It may have been incorrect perception, but my original 3x8 had a 3x2 syrup pan and a 3x6 flue pan. Once I got my RO and was concentrating it to 10-12%, I thought I wasn't getting as much flavor, so I bought a new set of pans, 3x5 raised flue, with 10" flues, and a 3x3 syrup pan. Again, I only thought I needed more syrup pan once I got the RO. Maybe it was only in my head, but I never regretted the decision.