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Thread: Boiled past syrup - fixing it makes it worse?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Hopkinton, NH
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    Default Boiled past syrup - fixing it makes it worse?

    Hello all,

    I know many a backyard sugarer has over-cooked their syrup and I'm not unique in this regard, but I'm trying to find out if trying to fix the screwup will make it worse.

    Yesterday we boiled 68 gallons of sap down to about 1.5 gallons of syrup (actually more like 1.15G, because we overcooked it) - we have a two pan cinderblock evaporator setup, and we finish it on the stove in a lobster pot where it's easier to control temp.

    Well when we were letting our outside fire die down in order to dump our haul into our pot, we apparently overcooked it. When my wife brought it inside and floated the hydrometer, it was almost to the "cold test" line, which is about 66 brix, as opposed to the normal "hot test" line around 59 brix. My wife asked me if we should add water, and of course i said "no -let's bottle it" - it wasn't overly thick or hard.... yet...

    this morning, we had a partial bottle that we put in the fridge overnight, and when we went to pour it, it was *super* thick. Barely pour-able. I'm going to experiment and see if the non-refrigerated bottles are the same, but my basic question is:

    give what I've told you about the nature of my screwup: 66 brix vs 59 brix - how crazy an idea is it to try to empty the bottled syrup (it's in 8 and 12oz glass bottles), add water, and re-bottle?

    good idea? terrible idea? one of the worst ideas of all time?

    many thanks for all of your expertise
    Maple Noob - 10th Year
    -26 bucket taps
    -2 pan cinder block evaporator with stovepipe flue and hinged door, improved from last year.
    -New, custom made stainless steel pans with ball valve run-offs

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Central Wisconsin
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    Default

    Sounds like a good idea to me. If it were me and it's that hard to pour, I'd pour it back out into your 'lobster pot', SLOWLY warm it back up to temp while adding small amounts of sap or distilled water to it to get it to the right brix. Then re-bottle.

    If it were just a little past and still poured good, I'd just leave it. When for personal use I tend to error on the side of a LITTLE past syrup. It may leave some sugar crystals in the bottom of the jar but I'd rather have that than not done enough syrup and risk spoilage. I've never gotten it as far as you described where it's hard to pour though.
    Last edited by Wannabe; 03-28-2021 at 08:49 AM.

  3. #3
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    Jan 2006
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    Oneida NY
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    Adding any good potable water is fine, just do it slowly. Don't try to do it in the bottles, add just 1/4 cup, mix and heat, when it gets up to temperature try testing the density, Adjust as necessary.
    As long as you didn't burn it, the only thing is that it will be darker than if you had pulled it off sooner, but dark is still good, in fact it's my most asked for grade. If it's very dark, you may prefer using it in cooking, however over the years I've got 4 regulars who prefer very dark for every day use. Before the new grading system, they always wanted grade B.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Wakefield,New Hampshire
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    I have done something similar in the past. I just diluted it with some distilled water slowly after bringing it to the cold test temp. Once you get it set, bring to bottling temp and re bottle. Bringing it to boil to read the hot test will require re filtering. If for personal use you may not care about re filtering.

    Also, you mentioned letting the syrup cool on the block arch then bringing it inside to check the brix. At what temp were you checking it? I believe the hydrometer hot test is 211. Your brix reading may be off because of this temperature difference.

    I've attached two photos that I found useful but not sure where the links are. 20210328_100936.jpg20210328_100955.jpg
    Last edited by NhShaun; 03-28-2021 at 09:23 AM.
    6th season solo sugar maker in a young sugar bush of mostly red maples
    320 taps
    2x6 self built arch, Flat pans w/ dividers
    New 12x16 sugar house
    CDL hobby 250 RO

  5. #5
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    May 2009
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    UVM Proctor Maple Research Center, Underhill Ctr, VT
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    If it was scorched, the burnt smell/taste cannot be corrected. If not, it is fine to add a little water and reheat. You'll need to check density again (correcting for temperature) and probably refilter if heated above 190 deg F.
    Last edited by DrTimPerkins; 03-29-2021 at 07:56 AM.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hopkinton, NH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wannabe View Post
    Sounds like a good idea to me. If it were me and it's that hard to pour, I'd pour it back out into your 'lobster pot', SLOWLY warm it back up to temp while adding small amounts of sap or distilled water to it to get it to the right brix. Then re-bottle.

    If it were just a little past and still poured good, I'd just leave it. When for personal use I tend to error on the side of a LITTLE past syrup. It may leave some sugar crystals in the bottom of the jar but I'd rather have that than not done enough syrup and risk spoilage. I've never gotten it as far as you described where it's hard to pour though.
    i have, on rare occasions in the past, had some sugar crystals... not lately though. I'm still hopeful that this batch will be ok if it's not in the fridge, although the partial bottle in the fridge wasn't up to standards - fine for personal use but we mostly give it away to friends!
    Maple Noob - 10th Year
    -26 bucket taps
    -2 pan cinder block evaporator with stovepipe flue and hinged door, improved from last year.
    -New, custom made stainless steel pans with ball valve run-offs

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hopkinton, NH
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by maple flats View Post
    Adding any good potable water is fine, just do it slowly. Don't try to do it in the bottles, add just 1/4 cup, mix and heat, when it gets up to temperature try testing the density, Adjust as necessary.
    As long as you didn't burn it, the only thing is that it will be darker than if you had pulled it off sooner, but dark is still good, in fact it's my most asked for grade. If it's very dark, you may prefer using it in cooking, however over the years I've got 4 regulars who prefer very dark for every day use. Before the new grading system, they always wanted grade B.
    thanks for the insights!
    Maple Noob - 10th Year
    -26 bucket taps
    -2 pan cinder block evaporator with stovepipe flue and hinged door, improved from last year.
    -New, custom made stainless steel pans with ball valve run-offs

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hopkinton, NH
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NhShaun View Post
    I have done something similar in the past. I just diluted it with some distilled water slowly after bringing it to the cold test temp. Once you get it set, bring to bottling temp and re bottle. Bringing it to boil to read the hot test will require re filtering. If for personal use you may not care about re filtering.

    Also, you mentioned letting the syrup cool on the block arch then bringing it inside to check the brix. At what temp were you checking it? I believe the hydrometer hot test is 211. Your brix reading may be off because of this temperature difference.

    I've attached two photos that I found useful but not sure where the links are. Attachment 22303Attachment 22304
    yeah, it's not that it cooled - it was still bubbling when we pulled it off - it's just that we let the fire die down from RAGING INFERNO to glowing embers so that we don't burn ourselves when we pull it off. We reheated it inside to do the hydrometer hot test
    Maple Noob - 10th Year
    -26 bucket taps
    -2 pan cinder block evaporator with stovepipe flue and hinged door, improved from last year.
    -New, custom made stainless steel pans with ball valve run-offs

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hopkinton, NH
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DrTimPerkins View Post
    If it was scorched, the burnt smell/taste cannot be correct. If not, it is fine to add a little water and reheat. You'll need to check density again (correcting for temperature) and probably refilter if heated above 190 deg F.
    not scorched! so that's the good news! thanks for your insight.
    Maple Noob - 10th Year
    -26 bucket taps
    -2 pan cinder block evaporator with stovepipe flue and hinged door, improved from last year.
    -New, custom made stainless steel pans with ball valve run-offs

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    chester, ma
    Posts
    910

    Default

    Lots of people "overcook" their syrup on the evaporator a little and then correct while bottling. Not sure why you think that would "make the problem worse".

    The moral of the story is you should have listened to your wife. LOL.

    Gabe
    2016: Homemade arch from old wood stove; 2 steam tray pans; 6 taps; 1.1 gal
    2017: Same setup. 15 taps; 4.5 gal
    2018: Same setup. Limited time. 12 taps and short season; 2.2 gal
    2019: Very limited time. 7 taps and a short season; 1.8 gals
    2020: New Mason 2x3 XL halfway through season; 9 taps 2 gals
    2021: Same 2x3, 18 taps, 4.5 gals
    2022: 23 taps, 5.9 gals
    2023: 23 taps. Added AUF, 13.2 gals
    2024: 17 taps, 5.3 gals
    All on buckets

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