So I left my first boil of sweet in the pans. And now its a solid block and below zero. I'm debating if I should warm to liquid, drain and wait for the next warm weather. Or since the damage is done and just wait...
So I left my first boil of sweet in the pans. And now its a solid block and below zero. I'm debating if I should warm to liquid, drain and wait for the next warm weather. Or since the damage is done and just wait...
As long as there's no damage to the pans that would need to be fixed before you can boil again just leave it there. The sweet won't spoil and you won't have to sweeten the pans again.
Russ
"Red Roof Maples" Where the term "boiling soda" was first introduced to the maple world!
1930 Ford Model AA Doodlebug tractor
A couple of Honda 4 wheelers
Four chainsaws and no chickens!
How long did you boil? I've not experienced anything more than slush forming on the top if I boiled straight sap for 5 hrs, or 8% concentrate for 1.5 hrs.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
Seems unlikely that there would be damage? The ice can expand upward.
60ish taps on buckets
D&G Sportsman 18x63
Turbo RB15 RO Bucket
KINDLE_CAMERA_1614592567000.jpg full disclosure this would be the Achilles heel of the system... I'm going to heat and drain as I worry some warming and freezing could damage this pipe.
Yah, that looks tricky. When a deep freeze is forecast I slowly and carefully bring down the level in my pans so that connector pipes like that are not completely full. This would serve the dual purposes of giving ice a place to expand within the pipe and concentrating the remaining sap so that it won't freeze as solid.
60ish taps on buckets
D&G Sportsman 18x63
Turbo RB15 RO Bucket
Thank you for that thought. That will be my intent in the future. Although here close to the border of Canada and in the hills I should be prepared for the 80 degree changes during the maple season.
You could also add butterfly valves on each end of that pipe. Close them up when done, take the pipe of to drain and hook it back up empty. Open the valves and start boiling again next time.
305 taps on 2 Shurflo's, 31 taps on 3/16" and 229 taps on gravity. 565 in all
Mountain Maple S3 controller for 145 of the vacuum taps
2x6 Darveau Mystique Oil Fired Evaporator w/ Smoky Lake Simplicity Auto Draw
Wesfab 7” filter press
An easier option than valves would be plugs... You can use these to plug the outlet or inlet from the inside of the pan so that you can drain the valves and piping between pans. They're also very handy for cleaning pans.
https://webstore.cdlusa.net/en/silicon-plug
About 750 taps on High Vac.
2.5 x 8 Intens-O-Fire
Airtech 3 hp LR Pump
Springtech Elite 500 RO
14 x 24 Timber Frame SugarHouse
16 x 22 Sap Shed w/ 1500 gal. + 700 gal. tanks
www.littlehogbackfarm.com
Should you choose to put a fire under the pans,make sure it’s a small one,ice won’t melt fast enough to keep liquid against your flues,etc
7th generation maple producer in sugarhouse built in 1892
2x World Champion Maple Syrup Producer
1250 taps on cv adapters
Leader Vortex 3x14 with Max Flue and Revolution Syrup Pan,Enhanced Steam Away
www.leggettmaplesyrup.com