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Thread: Better to have a sight gauge at float box or draw off valve?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Allegheny and Mercer Counties, PA
    Posts
    68

    Default Better to have a sight gauge at float box or draw off valve?

    I plan to buy a small divided 20"x48" evaporator, and as you would expect it is designed to be reversible flow via spinning the pan.

    I'd like to have it equipped with a float box, and a manual draw off valve, and these would need to be swapped as part of the pan rotation.

    It seems like having a sight gauge as part of the package would be good insurance (just in case...) to prevent burning the pan, and I'm of the opinion it would be better located at the draw-off valve rather than the float box.
    My experience has been a batch process using buffet pans that I simply lift out, so this divided pan stuff is all new to me.
    While I'd have faith in the float box keeping up with the draw, I would think a gauge at the draw off point would better display the situation than across the pan at the float box.
    So that's the first question you folks can cover. If I have only one sight gauge, where should it be located, and why?

    The next question is, since the draw-off valve and sight gauge would all be threaded into the same port, doesn't that create a big, long lever that could cause damage to the pan with frequent operation of the valve?
    Since the pan is supposed to be rotated and the accessories swapped in the process, should I create any type of additional support bracket to add stability to the entire valve/gauge/piping assembly?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Wardensville, Wv
    Posts
    326

    Default

    Not sure what size your ports on your pan are, but they do make 3/4 inch adapters with sanitary fittings like they use in brewing I would use those instead of a threaded union. As for the leverage my float box (smoky lake) has a metal lip that hangs from the edge of the pan. It wouldn't be hard to fashion a hook that would suspend the float box on the rim of the pan, a few bends on a flat piece of metal like a wreath hanger people use on doors. I have a 2x6 evaporator with dividers in the flue pan and in the syrup pan and i don't have any problem regulating the depth with just the sight glass on the float box. Just my experience so far. This is my first season with a sight glass or a float box, so far it's the best thing ever! Previous to this year we gauged depth by the bolt through the thermometer port, "i can see the bolt", "3/4 Bolt", "UNDER THE BOLT UNDER THE BOLT!!!!", LOL. Glad we don't need to do that any more. Hope this helps

    Jake
    2024 - 57 Gallons - Short season, many and varied problems remedied in short order! - No buckets!
    2023 - 38 Gallons - RO broke, Buckets didn't run, rebuilt vacuum pump mid-season, still made good syrup!
    2022 - 52 Gallons - DIY RO, 50% less fuel, no late nights in the shack!
    2021 - 48 Gallons - new pans, new arch, lots of new taps and tubing
    2020 - 32 Gallons
    2019 - 27 Gallons

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Nashville, MI
    Posts
    942

    Default

    Looking back to when I had a divided pan I would like to have had a sight glass on the in coming side. that would keep the sap in the pan at the sap level even when it was being drawn down from the opposite side.
    2004 - 2012 2x3 flat pan 25 to 60 taps
    2012 2x3 new divided pan w/draw off 55 taps
    2018 - didn't boil surgery - bought new evaporator
    2019 new SML 2x4 raised flue high output evap. 65 taps
    made 17 gal. syrup
    2020 - only put out 53 taps - made 16.25 ga.l syrup
    2021 - Didn't work out
    2022 - 25 taps on bags / 8 taps on 3/16's line - late start

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Center, Underhill Ctr, VT
    Posts
    6,410

    Default

    Seems like a question best addressed to the equipment manufacturer to see how others are dealing with the issues. Both would be best if possible. I agree with the sanitary ports suggestion....faster and easier to change without torqueing anything. Also, small connections can clog with niter, so go as big as you can at those connections without restricting flow.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

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