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Thread: I need a carpenter's (pro or hobbyist) advice

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigschuss View Post
    If you add enough 2x4's to support the rafters you should be fine. And if you make the roof steep enough (10/12 or 12/12) you will have almost no snow load.
    Throw in a couple collar or rafter ties for good measure. Plus make sure your gable ends are structurally connected to the top plate supporting the rafters.
    Last edited by TapTapTap; 01-05-2021 at 04:26 PM.
    Ken & Sherry
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  2. #12
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    Not to take away from some of the good advise listed above, but if you want a cheap and fast temporary solution, you might try what I did. I too had a condensation problem in an area of my sugar shack. I took plant bed canvas, which is just real light/thin material, a bed sheet would work, and attached it to the bottom edge of my rafters. I don’t know if it partially insulates the roof metal, or allows the air to travel up the rafters keeping the moisture out. Anyway it doesn’t rain in there anymore.
    Sorghum Producer
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  3. #13
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    AFretired, That is a great, cheap and fast idea. Are you talking about the black fabric you lay down to prevent weeds?

  4. #14
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    No, it’s white and real thin, but anything like it would probably work. Cheap flat bed sheets would probably work. I just stretched it tight and stapled it to the rafters.
    Sorghum Producer
    60 Bee Hives
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  5. #15
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    20210106_143621.jpg

    This what I did.
    Sorghum Producer
    60 Bee Hives
    200 Acres of Ky hills
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    2018 - Lapierre 2X8 Storm
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  6. #16
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    If you do add rafters, there is no reason to use 2x8's for a 12' wide structure. Does the top have a peak style or an arched type? If a peak, add a bottom plate then 2x4 studs max 24" spacing, thus 55" will need 2 between each, then a top plate. Add at least 1 or better 2 cross ties to prevent spreading. Then 2x4 rafters, or if concerned even 2x6 rafters. Then put plywood or OSB on it, then ice/water shield and finally steel roofing. As long as the rafters are 7' or less and you have a 3/12 or steeper pitch 2x4's are sufficient on a 3/12 or steeper roof (3" rise per foot horizontal). If you try the fabric idea I'd suggest just 1 season, then do it right.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
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  7. #17
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    If the OP is going to be adding rafters, top and bottom plates, studs and then sheeting...may as well just build a new structure and be done with it.
    I don't see how he can get any pitch at all unless the new "roof" is built over the top of the arch roof on the carport.
    Adding to that carport is a bad idea...hanging up a sheet to absorb the condensation is harmless and will solve the immediate problem.
    John Allin

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  8. #18
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    I still say hoods and run the vents through the roof, A couple Vent hat on the top simple done!!!
    Blaisdell's Maple Farm
    started on a 2x2 pan in 2000 and now
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  9. #19
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    The thing about hoods and vent pipes, if designed correctly and installed correctly they should be able to remove 95% of the steam from the boiling room. We do have hoods and stacks and generally have only one or two drops of condensate per year off of a nail coming through the roof! Approximately 8000 gallons of water go out the stacks per year. or about 130 gallons per hour when boiling. I did bot want that in the room with me and friends, during boiling.
    Regards,
    Chris
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  10. #20
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    Thank you all for the replies. You've given me plenty to think about and i appreciate the help.

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