+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24

Thread: Keep it simple

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Southern Ohio
    Posts
    1,098

    Default

    again I agree with ennismaple, making syrup in a flue pan alone is flirting with trouble. One thing I do is I use a piece of 3/16 tubing or 5/16 and siphon the nitre out of the bottom of the flues every few boils. My pan does not have a drain for the flues. I am not making syrup in the flue pan, just to be clear. I do this when it's cold before start up. I run it into a 5 gallon bucket with a pre-filter cone and then dump the clean sweet back in. A large basting squeeze bulb will fit on the tubing and be enough to start the siphon.

    In cold weather I use a outdoor 100 watt lamp under the flues....good down to 5-10 degrees F.
    125-150 taps
    Smokey Lakes Full pint Hybrid pan
    Modified half pint arch
    Air over fire
    All 3/16 tubing
    Southern Ohio

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Stirling ontario
    Posts
    135

    Default

    The first year i used one divided pan and drew syrup from it. I reversed it halfway through the season because there was some nitre at the draw off end.
    The second year i built a new evaporator that used 2 pans.The rear divided sap pan did not have a lot of nitre. It was feeding the syrup pan.
    This year i modified the evaporator. It will still use 2 pans but now rear pan is a new divided flue pan.I expect the boil to be substantial in it.
    Will the rear flue pan make a lot of nitre because of the increased exposure to flame and harder boil even though there won't be any syrup in it?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Northeast Vermont
    Posts
    523

    Default

    by your last post, it sounds like you'll have more of a traditional 2 pan set up?? rear pan is a flue pan, and front pan is a syrup pan (with partitions). if so, you'll be all set. By your first post i was under the assumption that you were only having one pan.... a flue pan. i think that would be a recipe for disaster. i'm not sure how well a flue pan and a syrup pan will work out with a siphon? the flue pan will boil violently (especially the front 1/2) and more than likely mess up your siphon. it might work... however, if you can find the time i would highly suggest connecting the pans somehow. you'll have much more concentrated sap/syrup entering the syrup pan and it can only take a matter of seconds of low level in the pan to royally mess things up!!
    Awfully thankful for an understanding wife!

    “The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.”
    - Vincent “Vince” Lombardi

    Good luck to all!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Stirling ontario
    Posts
    135

    Default

    You are correct..2 pans again this year.My first post was looking for input if next year i could just use
    the flue pan and draw "near" syrup from it to get away from float boxes..syphons..front pan etc?
    I am also wondering about the syphon and am going to build a shield in each pan for it.It will require
    a constant vigilance and i may have to transfer sap to the front pan manually.
    I have friend who does all his transferring manually from a 2' x 10' rear sap pan to a 2' x 2' front syrup pan.
    He has been using the 2 flat pans for years and makes beautiful syrup.He will put 10 inches of sap in his pans,
    load his firebox to the top, leave and come back the next morning. He will leave it for lengthy periods during
    the day as well.He is very knowledgable to say the least and has a great system!
    Yes...his arch is 2 ft. x 12' and his fire box will take 6 foot logs!
    Last edited by ir3333; 01-05-2021 at 07:02 PM.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Nashville, MI
    Posts
    347

    Default

    I guess I was under the impression you were using two pans. Just using the flue pans to boil with could cause you issues. I would stay with two pans. Make your syrup in the front pan and boil in the flue pan. your friend that boils in the large evaporator is taking quit a chance that something isn't going to happen by keaving the evaporator unattended while it's boiling.
    Last edited by Pdiamond; 01-05-2021 at 11:32 PM.
    2004 - 2012 2x3 flat pan 25 to 60 taps
    2012 2x3 new divided pan w/draw off 55 taps
    2018 - didn't boil surgery - bought new evaporator
    2019 new SML 2x4 raised flue high output evap. 65 taps
    made 17 gal syrup
    2020 - only put out 53 taps - made 16.25 gal syrup
    2021 - going for 50 bags and 50 on tubing

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Stirling ontario
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Do you think just using the flue pan would be hard to manage because of a more violent boil? I have installed a sight gauge this year and I would be drawing near syrup.
    As mentioned it will make probably make lighter syrup. I may just reverse the pans for a couple of boils and find out.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Nashville, MI
    Posts
    347

    Default

    In answer to your question Yes. Someone may correct me if I am wrong, but that is the the intent of a flue pan. To boil the sap in a hard violent, manner, to remove the water. As most flue pans have channels sap begins on one side and as it boils off it begins to become closer to syrup so it flows to the next channel. Now once it reach's the third channel this is where it would be piped into the front syrup pan and then flow thru its channels then drawn off as syrup when it is at proper density. sorry for being so long winded on the explanation. The sight gage is meant to help you maintain the sap level in the flue pan
    2004 - 2012 2x3 flat pan 25 to 60 taps
    2012 2x3 new divided pan w/draw off 55 taps
    2018 - didn't boil surgery - bought new evaporator
    2019 new SML 2x4 raised flue high output evap. 65 taps
    made 17 gal syrup
    2020 - only put out 53 taps - made 16.25 gal syrup
    2021 - going for 50 bags and 50 on tubing

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
    Posts
    981

    Default

    As you get closer to syrup the density changes quicker as you need to remove less water for each percentage point. You also have a larger volume of sweet or almost syrup evaporating at a higher rate than you would in a syrup pan. If you start making syrup in the middle of the flue pan as does happen with a syrup pan or just get a little distracted it can go down hill faster and would take a lot larger OH CRAP pail to keep from burning the pan. Just remember that when you start up the next boil you will have one very large draw at the beginning and it would be very hard to add fresh sap to push it out before burning.
    Smoky Lake 2x6 dropflu pans and hoods on homemade arch
    Smoky Lake 6 gallon water jacked bottler
    Concentric Exhaust
    250 Deer Run RO
    325 taps

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Rumney NH
    Posts
    89

    Default

    it does not sound like your keeping it simple. we have all done it. do your self a favor and skip the hassle, syrup pans are the cheap part? you will spend more money trying to make something work. just get a complete evaporator. just my 2 cents
    2017 140 taps 30x8 12x16 shack 28.5 gal
    2018 158 taps 30x8 12x16 shack with 8x8 kitchen 44 gal
    2019 223 taps 30x8 12x16 shack with 8x8 kitchen 36 gal
    2020 226 taps 30x8 12x16 shack with 8x8 kitchen 250 waterloo ro 63 gal

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    10,922

    Default

    Don't even entertain the idea of using just a flue pan without a syrup pan (flat pan). You would soon end up with burnt syrup.
    Your friend with a 2x12 who fills the pans to near capacity, fills the firebox and leaves for hours is a burnt down sugar house waiting to happen.
    Dave Klish about 400 taps, down from much more. Will hold about the same for 2021
    2012 Mahindra 36 HP 4x4/ loader/cab/heat/AC:-)
    3x8 raised flue evaporator
    250 GPH converted to electric, RO by Ray Gingerich
    6.32 KW solar system, 1.48KW is battery backed up, all net metered
    website: www.cnymaple.com

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts