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Thread: Question On Bottling With Propane

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    Default Question On Bottling With Propane

    I have a question on bottling syrup. My current process is I put the syrup through the filter press into bulk barrels. When I need to bottle I then pump from the barrels with my filter press pump into my canner and heat to 185 with a propane burner. I’ve never had an issue with niter heating it directly with propane but I’ve heard that you can. Is it an issue to heat directly with propane?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    It should not be an issue as long as you try to stay under 200 degrees. Once you start going much over 200 niter will form. The hardest part is maintaining that 185 temperature. As the volume gets less the temperature goes up and it is hard to regulate it.
    First introduced to making maple syrup in 1969
    Making syrup every year since 1979
    3 x 10 oil fired
    Revolution syrup and max flue pan
    Almost 1300 taps total with 900 on high vacuum
    Bought first Marcland drawoff in 1997, still going strong.

  3. #3
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    I would kindly disagree with bill m. The reason being that if you have syrup in a bottler being directly heated, you can have areas where the syrup that is heating up is directly contacting the pan and the propane flame is on the other side of the pan which. The syrup in that area can get above 195 and create sugar sand/niter. If you bring your syrup up slowly under direct flame, you may get by with direct heating. I use propane; however, I have my propane heating some water which causes steam to heat the syrup. It's like a double boiler. When doing it this way, you are assured that you won't create niter and your temperatures stay constant during the bottling process.
    Chad

    2014: 12 taps, 5 gal buckets
    2015: 15 taps on bags
    2016: 150 taps: 100 on bags, 50 on 3/16" natural vac, 2x8 AUF/AOF Homebuilt Arch, 2x8 SL Drop Flu & Auto Draw, SL Propane Canner/Bottler
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  4. #4
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    Chad, I'm not sure what I said that you are disagreeing with. We both said about the same thing just in different ways which is "be careful heating up your syrup and be mindful of the temperature, don't let it get to hot".
    First introduced to making maple syrup in 1969
    Making syrup every year since 1979
    3 x 10 oil fired
    Revolution syrup and max flue pan
    Almost 1300 taps total with 900 on high vacuum
    Bought first Marcland drawoff in 1997, still going strong.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Walpole, NH
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    Default

    Actually, want to keep from going over 192 degrees Fahrenheit to keep from forming new niter.
    Sugaring for 45+ years
    New Sugarhouse 14'x32'
    New to Me Algier 2'x8' wood fired evaporator
    2022 added a used RB25 RO Bucket
    250 mostly Sugar Maples, 15% Soft Maples. Currently,(110on 3/16" and 125 on Shurflo 4008 vacuum, 15 gravity), (16,000 before being disabled)
    1947 Farmall H and Wagon with gathering tank
    2012 Kubota with forks to move wood around

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Oneida NY
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    Back when I had a propane fired bottler, I saw new niter be formed while the max temperature hit 192F. Thus I believe it certainly can at lower temperatures. I also believe it is because of what DocsMapleSyrup said. The heat directly under the pan where the syrup is gets far hotter than what the temperature gauge shows, and then it can and often does form niter (sugar sand).
    That is one reason why I changed to a water jacketed bottler. Had I known a steam heated bottler would be out soon, I'd have waited for that. Both of those methods eliminate the localized hot spot.
    That being said, you certainly can make and pack perfectly good syrup using a propane fired bottler. Just watch the temperature closly and don't fire it using a high flame. You will likely have the best results if you run it up to 188F max and reheat with a low or moderate flame when the temperature falls to 182F. It can be done, it just requires a closer watch the water jacketed or steam heated. While I am not familiar with the steam heated bottlers the concept sounds good.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  7. #7
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    Bap, I agree 192 should be a safe temperature. I have seen syrup that is the correct density not form any niter at 205 degrees and way over density syrup form terrible niter at 180 degrees.
    First introduced to making maple syrup in 1969
    Making syrup every year since 1979
    3 x 10 oil fired
    Revolution syrup and max flue pan
    Almost 1300 taps total with 900 on high vacuum
    Bought first Marcland drawoff in 1997, still going strong.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Peru, Maine
    Posts
    1,057

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    Plenty of us heat on propane. Some say stirring it occasionally helps distribute the heat and others claim you shouldn’t do it. Low flame and stirring works for us. I think the low flame and not cranked up on high makes the biggest difference.
    305 taps on 2 Shurflo's, 31 taps on 3/16" and 229 taps on gravity. 565 in all
    Mountain Maple S3 controller for 145 of the vacuum taps
    2x6 Darveau Mystique Oil Fired Evaporator w/ Smoky Lake Simplicity Auto Draw
    Wesfab 7” filter press

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Oneida NY
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    My statement above was based on my experience. However you may need to know my process. When I get ready to filter into my bottler, I heat the syrup to 205-210+ in the finisher, then I filter it thru a filter press. That high heat I think might have given me a little leeway.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Weston, CT
    Posts
    474

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    Quote Originally Posted by mainebackswoodssyrup View Post
    Plenty of us heat on propane. Some say stirring it occasionally helps distribute the heat and others claim you shouldn’t do it. Low flame and stirring works for us. I think the low flame and not cranked up on high makes the biggest difference.
    Heating with a flame ( does not matter if it is high or low ) so long as you can stir perpetually is the best way to prevent sugar sand on a reheat to 185. If you do not have the time and or ability to stir perpetually then reheat on as low a flame as possible and stir when you can.
    If you think it's easy to make good money in maple syrup .... then your obviously good at stealing somebody's Maple Syrup.

    Favorite Tree: Sugar Maple
    Most Hated Animal: Sap Sucker
    Most Loved Animal: Devon Rex Cat
    Favorite Kingpin: Bruce Bascom
    40 Sugar Maple Taps ... 23 in CT and 17 in NY .... 29 on gravity tubing and 11 on 5G buckets ... 2019 Totals 508 gallons of sap, 7 boils, 11.4 gallons of syrup.
    1 Girlfriend that gives away all my syrup to her friends.

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