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Thread: Yet another barrel evaporator build!

  1. #11
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    2DFD2164-2225-4F26-B46D-D4340B6EEFC5.jpg2DFD2164-2225-4F26-B46D-D4340B6EEFC5.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Galena View Post
    hey all, bumping this thread. Thinking of putting a layer of refractory cement inside my barrel evap instead of firebrick. Wondering how thick to go with it.
    I’m not an expert, but I believe that the refractory cement is just a filler for between the bricks or to seal up gaps and cracks-not to really be used for an actual all around coating of the interior-think mortar in a brick wall.

    My barrel stove is bricked well and joints, gaps and cracks sealed with the cement. Above that I have ceramic (1.5”) insulation pinned to the skin of the drum. In the well insulated portions the paint on the drum doesn’t burn off. This means the heat is kept in and directed where you want it, towards your pans and not radiating out to heat you or your shack.
    All Sugar Maples
    2017 7 taps on propane & 5 gal pot
    2018 12 taps on propane & 5 gal pot
    2019 17 taps on propane & 5 gal pot, Gen 1 barrel evaporator
    2020 26 taps 2-22-20 - Gen 2 barrel evaporator, DIY 100GPD RO
    2021 cut back some-12 taps Gen 2 barrel evap-too many other projects.

  2. #12
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    Apr 2019
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    Nashville, MI
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    Most use the ceramic insulation then firebrick over that. the refactory cement is how Balrog stated in between the brick and gaps
    2004 - 2012 2x3 flat pan 25 to 60 taps
    2012 2x3 new divided pan w/draw off 55 taps
    2018 - didn't boil surgery - bought new evaporator
    2019 new SML 2x4 raised flue high output evap. 65 taps
    made 17 gal. syrup
    2020 - only put out 53 taps - made 16.25 ga.l syrup
    2021 - Didn't work out
    2022 - 25 taps on bags / 8 taps on 3/16's line - late start

  3. #13
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    Mar 2012
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    Thanks guys....now how do you attach the ceramic insulation? And how thick should the firebrick be? Going by HD site it can get pretty $$$...like $5-$9 depending on brand....and how do you attach the firebrick to the ceramic insulation?
    Last edited by Galena; 02-21-2021 at 11:17 AM.
    Been tapping since 2008.
    2018 - 17 taps/7 trees...819l sap, approx 28l syrup
    2019 - 18 taps/8 trees...585l sap, 28l syrup...21:1 ratio
    2020 - 18 taps/8 trees...890.04l sap...gave away about 170l, 30l snafu'd....23l total for me from approx 690l
    2021 - 18 taps/8 trees...395l sap, 12 l syrup
    2022 - 18 taps/8 trees....7 sugars 1 red due to #2 having surgery so had the season off....582l sap, 18.5l syrup
    2023 - 18 taps/8 trees...all sugars again. 807l sap, so far approx 14l syrup

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balrog006 View Post
    Attachment 21970Attachment 21970

    I’m not an expert, but I believe that the refractory cement is just a filler for between the bricks or to seal up gaps and cracks-not to really be used for an actual all around coating of the interior-think mortar in a brick wall.

    My barrel stove is bricked well and joints, gaps and cracks sealed with the cement. Above that I have ceramic (1.5”) insulation pinned to the skin of the drum. In the well insulated portions the paint on the drum doesn’t burn off. This means the heat is kept in and directed where you want it, towards your pans and not radiating out to heat you or your shack.
    Thanks, that's what I have in mind...so you just basically screw the insulation into place then brick over it using the refractory cement? How much ceramic insulation did you use? It sells on Amazon in rolls of 39'x24'
    Last edited by Galena; 02-21-2021 at 11:23 AM.
    Been tapping since 2008.
    2018 - 17 taps/7 trees...819l sap, approx 28l syrup
    2019 - 18 taps/8 trees...585l sap, 28l syrup...21:1 ratio
    2020 - 18 taps/8 trees...890.04l sap...gave away about 170l, 30l snafu'd....23l total for me from approx 690l
    2021 - 18 taps/8 trees...395l sap, 12 l syrup
    2022 - 18 taps/8 trees....7 sugars 1 red due to #2 having surgery so had the season off....582l sap, 18.5l syrup
    2023 - 18 taps/8 trees...all sugars again. 807l sap, so far approx 14l syrup

  5. #15
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    Apr 2019
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    Galena, the fire brick just lays up against the ceramic blanket which is tight to the outside wall. the ceramic insulation should be cut so it lays inside the arch where you want it nice and firmly with moving. you don't need anything to hold it there.
    2004 - 2012 2x3 flat pan 25 to 60 taps
    2012 2x3 new divided pan w/draw off 55 taps
    2018 - didn't boil surgery - bought new evaporator
    2019 new SML 2x4 raised flue high output evap. 65 taps
    made 17 gal. syrup
    2020 - only put out 53 taps - made 16.25 ga.l syrup
    2021 - Didn't work out
    2022 - 25 taps on bags / 8 taps on 3/16's line - late start

  6. #16
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    Mar 2005
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    Albion PA
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    Galena,
    I think your going to like the barrel arch! The blanket is about a inch thick, but is going to get squished in the round bottom of the barrel when the fire brick in in place. Yes all this can add up in cost. Another option is to just start in the bottom center place "splits" and keep placing them up around the sides. then fill in the cracks with sand. That way when you need to tear this down in a year or two for your new evaporator it will be much easier! Just sayin.....
    Keep boiling!
    Regards,
    Chris
    Casbohm Maple and Honey
    625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
    3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
    12" SIRO Filter Press.
    2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
    One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
    Too many Cub Cadets
    Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
    1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck

    www.mapleandhoney.com

  7. #17
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    Oct 2016
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    Maine
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    Quote Originally Posted by Galena View Post
    Thanks guys....now how do you attach the ceramic insulation? And how thick should the firebrick be? Going by HD site it can get pretty $$$...like $5-$9 depending on brand....and how do you attach the firebrick to the ceramic insulation?
    Check nearby for firebricks at landscaping/masonry supply. Should be much cheaper there.

  8. #18
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    Mar 2012
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    North Grenville
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    Quote Originally Posted by hansel View Post
    Check nearby for firebricks at landscaping/masonry supply. Should be much cheaper there.
    Yeah, no kidding...I paid $3/per brick at a local masonry place, and had earlier in the week stupidly bought bricks at $7/ea. Ow. At least now I have 26 full size fire bricks so that oughta do me. Looks like 18 in the bottom, another 6 on the sides and a couple for the back. It's been suggested that I put a layer of sand as dead space fill in between the insulation and brick layer, up to halfway for the lower half of the barrel and 3/4 up the back. Thoughts?

    Thanks guys for all the feedback and suggestions!
    Been tapping since 2008.
    2018 - 17 taps/7 trees...819l sap, approx 28l syrup
    2019 - 18 taps/8 trees...585l sap, 28l syrup...21:1 ratio
    2020 - 18 taps/8 trees...890.04l sap...gave away about 170l, 30l snafu'd....23l total for me from approx 690l
    2021 - 18 taps/8 trees...395l sap, 12 l syrup
    2022 - 18 taps/8 trees....7 sugars 1 red due to #2 having surgery so had the season off....582l sap, 18.5l syrup
    2023 - 18 taps/8 trees...all sugars again. 807l sap, so far approx 14l syrup

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    VT
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    Not sure if this is too late but if you haven't already started to build your barrel stove I built a cube out of 6mm steel to fit my pan. It wasn't very much money at all for the material and it might be easier to insulate. Here's a little video that shows it. If you have question let me know.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCjlkuMM5Nc

  10. #20
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    Mar 2012
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    North Grenville
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    Thanks, but my barrel evap is now built, insulated, sanded, bricked (chose to not mortar) and smokepiped. Gave it a test fire yesterday and burned some snow. Holy liftin what a difference - heat where it was needed, and I could stand next to the barrel without my legs catching fire from heat leaking out. Your buiid sounds interesting though, I will check it out :-)

    Watching...very sophisticated setup! Keep in mind that water can boil at different temps depending on atmospheric pressure. I've had it boil at 208 and 210. One thing I would change though is putting hot syrup through the filters and into the plastic bucket. Even food-grade plastic will melt and leave an unpleasant taste. FWIW everyone I know, from lil old me who's been tapping 13 yrs now, up to and including a 7th-gen producer, draws off nearup into stainless steel. Just sayin!
    Last edited by Galena; 03-10-2021 at 07:20 AM.
    Been tapping since 2008.
    2018 - 17 taps/7 trees...819l sap, approx 28l syrup
    2019 - 18 taps/8 trees...585l sap, 28l syrup...21:1 ratio
    2020 - 18 taps/8 trees...890.04l sap...gave away about 170l, 30l snafu'd....23l total for me from approx 690l
    2021 - 18 taps/8 trees...395l sap, 12 l syrup
    2022 - 18 taps/8 trees....7 sugars 1 red due to #2 having surgery so had the season off....582l sap, 18.5l syrup
    2023 - 18 taps/8 trees...all sugars again. 807l sap, so far approx 14l syrup

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