Mainline lag eyebolts

[Minnesota Tapper]

I ordered 7/16" x 5-1/4" long lag eyebolts for anchoring my mainline at top and bottom. I was under the impression the circle eye part was not factored into the total length. I was wrong😬. There's about 3" of length that would actually screw into the anchor trees. Is 3" enough or do I need something longer? I'm using 1" tube with high tensile wire.

[maple flats]

I use drive in anchors like what utility companies use. The drive in threaded part is less than 3", I've never had one pull loose.
By the way, you need a way to relieve the tension every few years so you can unhook the anchor and back it off a little or the anchor will become burried in the tree trunk until a sawyer encounters it, either with a chainsaw or a sawmill. The drive in anchors I use are coursly threaded to back them off. a link http://www.platt.com/platt-electric-...px?zpid=745500 or here http://www.newtechindustries.com/7-1...line-hardware/
The second one is lower cost and a larger picture.
Looks like they are now available in any qty, back when I bought mine the only way I found them was in a box of 50, or multiples of that. Those hooks are very heavily galvanized. I drill a 1/4" hole about an inch deep, then drive them in using a 2 or 3# hammer. To back then off later on, I use a 12" or larger adjustable wrench (Crescent) . The 1/4" hole makes it easier to start. I just checked, the threads are only about 2" and the tip is another 1/2 " in length.

[eagle lake sugar]

Maple Flats is correct, the J hooks we used in the phone company will not pull out. I haven't switched to them yet, I'm still wrapping the high tensile fence wire around the end tree, but I've seen studies where the J hooks are the way to go.

[maple flats]

If interested try the second link in post 2 above. I just fixed it, somehow the link I posted yesterday did not get copied completely yesterday. Do a search too, those are just the first 2 I got when I searched it.

[Minnesota Tapper]

Thanks for the advice. I ordered new utility pole/ j hooks. The eyebolts I had purchased have what I would call a fine thread. Similar to what you would find at a hardware store. These j hooks look to have much more aggressive threads. Hopefully they will last a long time.

[eagle lake sugar]

Thanks for the advice. I ordered new utility pole/ j hooks. The eyebolts I had purchased have what I would call a fine thread. Similar to what you would find at a hardware store. These j hooks look to have much more aggressive threads. Hopefully they will last a long time.

They're also supposed to be driven in the tree or pole perpendicular to the strand, not facing it. That way the entire tree would need to split in order for the hook to pull out.

[Minnesota Tapper]

Really? I was under the impression that the more angle off to the side the wire pulls on an anchor, the weaker the anchor becomes. Your way (j hook perpindicular to the wire) does make it almost impossible for it to strip from the tree.

[Minnesota Tapper]

Mount them perpendicular to the wire? I was told the wirebshould come straight off the hook and the more angled sideways the wire pulls the weaker it becomes. I have no clue never done mainline before. If perpendicular is the best way I can do that.

[maple flats]

I had not heard that and my hooks are all facing the wire, never pulled loose.

[eagle lake sugar]

I had not heard that and my hooks are all facing the wire, never pulled loose.

In a telephone pole they're designed to be perpendicular to the running strand or wire for strength purposes. It may be less of an issue with maple lines because the tree will grow around it.