Another method is to use 1/4" hollow braid rope on one or both ends. For that just cut a sharp angle on the end of the tubing, then push on the rope end to "shorten" it, that opens up the center, slide the lateral in and up about 6-8" and out the side. Tie the other end of the rope to the end tree or the mainline. Then you have a "Chinese finger". Slide the rope on the tubing to adjust. I find either electrician's tape or a gas line hose clamp helps hold the rope from getting bumped and loosened' If not bothered it will hold, but it takes only a very light bump on the end of the rope to lose it's grip. When I use that method I also don't "tie " a knot in the rope, but rather I use a pen tip (unscrew type pen, use the point end) slip the end of the rope into that tip, then push on the end of the rope like you did to insert the tubing, make sure to keep pushing on the rop, until the pen tip is far enough, then push it out the side. You now have a loop that will not slip nor come untied. I then run the rope loop end around the tree and pass the free end thru the loop and then pull the rope towards the tubing. Another way that works is to run the rope around the tree, then use a pen point on the rope to slide the rope into the center of the braid and go 6-8" and back out the side. If I use that method I leave maybe 2' space before doing the splice on larger trees, maybe 10-12" on saplings. The rope can thus be adjusted by sliding the splice.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.