Tightening laterals when running solo

[Johnjenner]

Would like to find out the best method for tightening laterals when running solo. Since my son is in college I usually have to tighten them by myself. Using a two-handed tool can be difficult. Has anyone figured out a better and efficient way to do it?

[buckeye gold]

two word reply....side ties

[Kh7722]

Second the side ties. You are able to get them as tight as a piano sting

[tcross]

what are you using for the end of the line. on the last tree? i run my lines alone and use the "o" ring connector and i can pull my lateral lines as tight as i'd like. i've also used the slide fitting and that seems to do the trick as well! should be fairly easy to get your laterals all tight!

[DrTimPerkins]

As others have said, slide fittings at the end are useful for tightening laterals. When you first install drops, leave them 6-12" away from the tree on the downhill side. Then always tighten the lateral lines uphill. This will pull them closer to the tree over time. If you'd prefer you could do it the other way around, but you'd need to cut out a section and put in a union every time or leave more tubing at the loop on the mainline if it isn't too excessive.

[maple flats]

I use at least 2 methods. Side ties are used the most, for that I often use 1/2" wide flat chain lock strap. You only need 1 strand, attach it to the lateral, pull towards a tree at an appropriate distance away and go around the tree and lock the end link into a hole that gives the right tension. link: gemplers.com/products/prolock-chain-lock-tree-tie?variant=21171638435929&utm_medium=cpc&utm_sour ce=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&utm_content=https://gemplers.com/products/prolock-chain-lock-tree-tie%3Fvariant%3D21171638435929%26utm_medium%3Dcpc% 26utm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_campaign%3DGoogle%2520 Shopping&utm_term=shopify_US_2043092762713_2117163 8435929&gclid=CjwKCAjwzvX7BRAeEiwAsXExo5lTr_xJ6qpU K8gBW6zdVTSU19xcOx5sBZrV-xLymQuN_g5BboDy9RoC-NAQAvD_BwE
It is available at many online nurseries for training tree branches and supporting young saplings.
My second method comes when I change the fittings on my laterals. When I either change the drops or just change the tees where the drop enters the lateral, I loosen the side ties, then pull the lateral from both direction towards the tee being replaced (I only remove the side ties between the tee I'm replacing and the next tee in each direction). Then I use a tubing grip like this www.bascommaple.com/item/tubth/ or you can make them from wood and cord. Then I cut out the excess, and join the new ends with the tee. In 3/16 laterals, after season 1 I've found that you get better sap flow if you replace all fittings in the 3/16 tubing. It's small diameter tends to plug at the fittings. I also clean the tubing twice, shortly after the season and again in late fall, each time I use calcium chloride and rinse well with potable water.
By the way, while I often have the help of my BIL, we tend to each work a line solo, no need in most cases for a helper.

[Johnjenner]

I like the side tie idea. Do you hook the wire directly on the laterals or do you put something between the lateral and the wire? I would think the wire would kink the 5/16 lateral tubing?

[buckeye gold]

I like the side tie idea. Do you hook the wire directly on the laterals or do you put something between the lateral and the wire? I would think the wire would kink the 5/16 lateral tubing?

If using wire yes it helps. Slip a piece of tubing over the end and use it as padding as a loop. Don't twist a wire tight on your line you want a loop. You can also use hollow core rope or para-cord. The lock strap works well.

[maple flats]

Another method is to use 1/4" hollow braid rope on one or both ends. For that just cut a sharp angle on the end of the tubing, then push on the rope end to "shorten" it, that opens up the center, slide the lateral in and up about 6-8" and out the side. Tie the other end of the rope to the end tree or the mainline. Then you have a "Chinese finger". Slide the rope on the tubing to adjust. I find either electrician's tape or a gas line hose clamp helps hold the rope from getting bumped and loosened' If not bothered it will hold, but it takes only a very light bump on the end of the rope to lose it's grip. When I use that method I also don't "tie " a knot in the rope, but rather I use a pen tip (unscrew type pen, use the point end) slip the end of the rope into that tip, then push on the end of the rope like you did to insert the tubing, make sure to keep pushing on the rop, until the pen tip is far enough, then push it out the side. You now have a loop that will not slip nor come untied. I then run the rope loop end around the tree and pass the free end thru the loop and then pull the rope towards the tubing. Another way that works is to run the rope around the tree, then use a pen point on the rope to slide the rope into the center of the braid and go 6-8" and back out the side. If I use that method I leave maybe 2' space before doing the splice on larger trees, maybe 10-12" on saplings. The rope can thus be adjusted by sliding the splice.