+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Cupola build ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Lancaster NH
    Posts
    143

    Default Cupola build ?

    Getting ready to put the roof on my new 12 by 16 sugar house. My question is about the cupola build. I see some that look like they are just dropped onto the roof with the rafters still in place, and some that appear to be built into the roof. Is one way right ? I feel like it should be built on shortened rafters with a framed sill , like a mini house. Also my evaporator pan is 2 foot by 4. with a 3 by 2 syrup pan. So I planned to make a 3 by 4 copula with drop down doors. Does that sound right. Oh and if your have any framing pics I would love to see them

    Thanks
    44 27'08/71 27'56
    300 totalish taps 250 on tube and bosworth sap sucker
    50 bucket and bags about 40-50 gallons a season
    on a 2 by 7 home made evaporator and sugar shack
    1st gen circa 1966 still learning stuff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Rutland, Vermont
    Posts
    326

    Default

    14055529_1277794965584566_1219782970_n.jpg I don't know if there is a right way. This is how we did ours.
    CDL 2.5*8 Venturi with all the bells
    Leader Clear 5 bank filter press
    Memprotec 350H RO
    600ish taps and looking for more.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,547

    Default

    Old wisdom suggests the open cupola area equals the area of the evaporator. However hoods can reduce that.
    In my case, I had a 2x6 evaporator when I built my sugarhouse. I later got my 3x8. My cupola is just 2x6'. My 3x8 has a tight hood on the 3x5 flue pan and a raised hood over the syrup pan, the cupola is plenty big. My sidewalls are 10' tall and my roof is an 8/12 pitch, I don't know how much that might affect the performance. At any rate, my 24 s.f evaporator is happy with a 12 s.f. cupola area. In fact, it's still enough even when I also have my 2x6 finisher running too.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Lancaster NH
    Posts
    143

    Default

    Thanks for the pic thats what I was thinking. So do you count the sq feet of both doors or just the bottom opening leading to the doors. My plan was 3 by 4 giving 12 sq foot on each side for 14 sq foot of evaporator.
    44 27'08/71 27'56
    300 totalish taps 250 on tube and bosworth sap sucker
    50 bucket and bags about 40-50 gallons a season
    on a 2 by 7 home made evaporator and sugar shack
    1st gen circa 1966 still learning stuff

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Sugar Camp, Wisconsin
    Posts
    298

    Default

    Hey Maple Camp
    I did a 12 by 14 timber frame shed and mounted the cupola on two 4 by 4's spanning the opening between sets of rafters then set the cupola framing on that and sort of built it in place but if I had it to do over I would have built it complet on the ground then hoisted it up and set it on the framing. Was hard to work on it especially after the roofing was on. Windows open down like a hopper style and total opening equals more than my little 2 by 3 pan. Good luck on your build Jay

    14 Chimney Framing (3).jpg 16 Cupola Framing (5).jpg 19 Sugar Shack Chimney (4).jpg 23 Cupola Finished (4).jpg
    Zucker Lager

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Sugar Camp, Wisconsin
    Posts
    298

    Default

    One more pic so you can see how I set the cupola framing on the roof framing Jay

    17 Roof Decking and Water Shield On (3).jpg
    Zucker Lager

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Williston, VT
    Posts
    615

    Default

    I would keep the rafter framing through the cupola. As an engineer, I always think about load path - how does load flow thru your structure. Removing the rafters under the cupala takes away the continuity of the load path. Eventually it could cause a sag in the roof. I like Zucker's timber frame which preserves the load path elegantly.
    Ken & Sherry
    Williston, VT
    16x34 Sugarhouse
    1,500 taps on high vacuum, Electric Releaser & CDL Sap Lifter
    Wood-Fired Leader 30"x10' Vortex Arch & Max Raised Flue with Rev Syrup Pan & CDL1200 RO
    https://www.facebook.com/pumpkinhillmaple/

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Hopkinton, MA
    Posts
    1,778

    Default

    I framed mine to be open to reduce the surfaces for steam to gather right above the pan. Plus I like the way it looks open. It's not wrong to leave the rafters in place, just a preference - less measuring and cutting too. I wouldn't worry too much about load. Not to say load shouldn't be considered, but it can be accounted for. If you frame it right, like a dormer, you are structurally fine.
    Woodville Maples
    www.woodvillemaples.com
    www.facebook.com/woodvillemaples
    Around 300 taps on tubing, 25+ on buckets if I put them out
    Mix of natural and mechanical vac, S3 Controller from Mountain Maple
    2x6 W.F. Mason with Phaneuf pans
    Deer Run 250 RO
    Ford F350
    6+ hives of bees (if they make it through the winters)
    Keeping the day job until I can start living the dream.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Williston, VT
    Posts
    615

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SeanD View Post
    I ..,. If you frame it right, like a dormer, you are structurally fine.
    However, you can't frame it like a typical dormer. A dormer gains a lot of structural integrity from the flooring below it. And typically, the dormer is built right out to the top plate of your exterior walls. For a cupula, to achieve the same continuity with the building frame, it would need adequate collar ties at the ends and significant stiffness across the front and back to transfer it's loads to the edge rafters and collar tie frame. Think of the cupala as a floorless structure that will want to spread open at the bottom under load. And the thing about wood is that it creeps under load so you might get enough sag to be noticable unless you take additional measures. This situation is more of a concern with a cupola that extends over multiple rafter and with wider buildings.
    Ken & Sherry
    Williston, VT
    16x34 Sugarhouse
    1,500 taps on high vacuum, Electric Releaser & CDL Sap Lifter
    Wood-Fired Leader 30"x10' Vortex Arch & Max Raised Flue with Rev Syrup Pan & CDL1200 RO
    https://www.facebook.com/pumpkinhillmaple/

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Williston, VT
    Posts
    615

    Default

    Here's my cupola. It's 10 ft long and about 5 wide with 2 drop-down doors on each side. The framing was easy since I maintained the rafters and ridge beam. I used 2x4 (rough cut) studs for the cupola bents. The legs of the bents extend down and attached the the rafters.


    IMG_20200828_080323.jpg

    20180326_140741.jpg
    Ken & Sherry
    Williston, VT
    16x34 Sugarhouse
    1,500 taps on high vacuum, Electric Releaser & CDL Sap Lifter
    Wood-Fired Leader 30"x10' Vortex Arch & Max Raised Flue with Rev Syrup Pan & CDL1200 RO
    https://www.facebook.com/pumpkinhillmaple/

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts