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Thread: 2x6 arch with raused flue.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    vermont
    Posts
    66

    Default 2x6 arch with raused flue.

    Hi guys. Could i get some pictures and more info on your arch setup. Baffle placement ect on your 2x6 setups wood fire. How far away from pans how far from the back of arch is the baffle thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,544

    Default

    I can describe it, but I have no pictures. My firebox (I have a 3x8) is 30" deep, a 2x6 will likely be 24" deep, The sides are bricked with full bricks as well as the back wall. My ramp goes upward at about 30-35 degrees, until it is up to 1/2-1/4" below the raised flues (that is the top of the bricks). Under the bricks on the ramp and the flat going back I have it filled with vermiculite insulation. To get that go to a greenhouse supply and buy BIG bags. A 2x6 may only need 1 bag. My 3x8 used most of 3 bags. I first priced it at Lowes and came up with $490, at a greenhouse supply I paid $60 total. When you calculate remember to account for the brick that will go on top.. Then about 6" before the back end of the pans there is a baffle that forms the back wall under the flues. Behind that it drops down to an enlarged chamber for under the base stack. Mine also has a clean-out door on the back to aid in cleaning the flues. I don't know if a 2x6 would have a rear door. In the clean-out chamber it is lined with fire brick, against the rear baffle, along the sides and on the floor.
    I didn't, but since I put mine together many have started also using a layer of ceramic board or blanket between the sides and the brick for additional insulation.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    92

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    I would like to second the use of ceramic insulation, the price is worth it. My kids were little when I built my arch and I was concerned about them getting burnt accidentally. An engineer friend got me in contact with a company that sold ceramic insulation for boiler and I purchased a box of 2” . At full boil I can lay my hand on the side of the arch for a couple seconds without burn or harm. My ramp is more gradual under the flat pan and then climbs steeply right at the flue (almost 90 degrees). I have a drop flue with 1/4 “ space under bottom of flue. My arch is a modified version of a 802 maple (nod of respect). I use half bricks just at the end of the flue pan laid across to force the flame path upward, it took a few boils and adjustment to get it right. Always be willing to try, for that is half the battle or boil.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    River Falls, WI
    Posts
    831

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    Best place I've found for ceramic insulation is McGill's warehouse online. Very reasonable.
    -Ryan


    Went off the deep end. Might be in over my head...

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