-Ryan
Went off the deep end. Might be in over my head...
Also, is there a reasonably priced container option for bulk storage? I'm not super keen on hot packing plastic. I imagine stainless barrels are the best, but I would imagine they're not particularly cheap.
-Ryan
Went off the deep end. Might be in over my head...
I take mine off heavy as well after watching a smoky lake video. This allows me to draw off some sweet from the pan in a separate container hot and filtered. I then use that (sweet) but lower sugar material to dilute and bring the brix down to the appropriate degree. This also adds to my syrup total for that session and it’s filtered just like the syrup I drew off.
I used to use my turkey burner to reheat/finish/bottle but now I use my homemade filter/bottler on my wood stove and heat to temp and proper density.
Its based off a leader/mason canner but is made of thick stainless so it heats up so much more evenly and doesn’t create niter
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Mead Maple "It's for the kids..."
Paul Cerminara
2019 - First season ever
-Goal: 3 gallons
-Season Total: 7.5 gallons - pulled taps after running out of firewood and time
2020
Built 2'x8' Oil Fired with Thor drop flue pans
-Goal: 20 gallons
-Season Total: 55 gallons
Whether it creates more niter is dependent on whether in the heating process you evaporated more moisture away or had an unusually hot spot while heating. The hot spot causes it faster, but if you loose much more water there are then minerals that settle because the syrup went past saturation.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
We have a LaPierre 29 gallon water jacket canner with dual elements it
takes about 2 hours to heat up syrup to 186 ,if its full.
Just spoke to Jim at CDL Wisconsin. He was of the opinion that I shouldn't use a water jacketed canner for reheating. Said it was only designed for maintaining temp. Even the dual element 220volt model. Kinda confusing.
-Ryan
Went off the deep end. Might be in over my head...
While I never timed how long it takes for my 16 gal WJ Smoky Lake WJ bottler to heat, it helped a lot after I made a cover for holding the heat in the bottler. I made it using 1" rigid foam insulation. The heating element controller remains outside of the enclosure but the rest is all covered, top, sides and front including the part out front over the bottling shelf. It makes the heating process much faster (and more efficient). To assemble it I used 2.5" long screws. I just cut the pieces and screwed the corners together. The top in laid on after and weighted down using a length of 2x6, the front bottom cover is propped up from the bottling shelf.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
Yes seems confusing we use ours all time for reheating.We have used ours for 4 years now no issues at all.It uses same elements as a hot water "heater".
Talked to another dealer who said I was barking up the wrong tree. Suggested I'd need to heat elsewhere, then filter into the canner and that the canner wouldn't heat syrup. She did admit that they'd never tried though.
Dave, I was thinking that insulation would help, even just wrapping it in towels.
-Ryan
Went off the deep end. Might be in over my head...