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Thread: question on finishing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    indiana
    Posts
    56

    Default question on finishing

    Hi all. I just got a Murphy cup and looking forward to using it, but I have a couple of questions on finishing my syrup. Before i was getting my sap close to finished on my evaporator and then finishing on a propane burner, testing with my hydrometer to get it finished. Well, when I was reading up on these murphy cups and floats, I came across a thread that a guy said he took his syrup past done, let it cool and them added water back into it to finish, it threw me for a loop. You can do this? That would make things so much easier for me. Also, with the Murphy float, you can check your syrup even if it's at room temp to see if it's done?

    Thanks Jason

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    North Grenville, Ontario
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    971

    Default

    Drawing off heavy is ok to do if you want. It’s easier to add sweet or distilled water then to boil water off.
    When I draw off it tends to be a bit high as well. My auto draw will open and then the temp spikes as it draws off. Sometimes 1-1.5 degrees then slowly goes down. After a couple draws I’ll use the dipper and take a sample in the Murphy cup. If it’s higher then 67 I’ll open valve and add a little sweet from the syrup pan and check again. Once it’s good it gets filtered and off to the bottler.
    You can check any temperature syrup with the Murphy cup. The dial tells you where your hydrometer will float at 66.9 brix.
    The Murphy float is the same. But it’s not a vessel for a hydrometer. It’s just a dial that you float in say your canner and gives you the same reading. You then either check with a separate hydrometer cup or float your hydrometer in the canner as well untill the two readings match.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,565

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    I sometimes need to thin, but that is because I send proper density syrup to my finisher and let it set there until I've gotten enough to fill a barrel or even 2. I then heat it to about 205-210F to filter it, just before filtering I use my Murphy cup to verify the density. I then add pre-syrup off the evaporator or even sometimes permeate to bring the density down.
    Adding water, sap, permeate or pre-syrup works fine, but it should not be your go to plan. If you always need to thin it means you boiled too long, using more fuel and along the way you have made darker syrup. I have customers who usually ask for dark, but if your customers prefer amber or golden, you may not get as much of the lighter grades.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    indiana
    Posts
    56

    Default

    Thanks for the replies. This helps a lot. I don't sell anything, this is just for my family and we prefer dark syrup as it is, so boiling a little past and thinning afterwards is fine with me. Seems like this will simplify things a lot for me.

    Jason

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