Oil conversion 2

[BAP]

Pull your burner out so the end is just about flush with the insulation.

[Chasefamily]

Pull your burner out so the end is just about flush with the insulation.

That's what i will do next. Although I have turned my air shutter to only about 1/2 inch open and stack temp was 585 last time I tested it and syrup pan boil really seemed to pick up. So hoping it's getting better

[Mead Maple]

Chase, I was in a rare case where a family member happens to be a burner tech and a former employee for D&G so I had all the goods rolled into one. But he was able to fine tune my arch (even with date oil) to be very efficient with fuel consumption, acceptable CO, and ideal stack temps. If you get crazy enough, might be worth a call to your oil company or a plumber friend who can fine tune for efficiency


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[Brian]

The blanket should be touching the bottom of your flues. Nozzle up and play with the pump psi then the air shutter to clean up the flame.The air shutter is what controls the draft. When you get all of that done then get an oil tech that under stands 701 burners to fine tune it. My son has a heating and plumbing business in Corinth and under stands them. Some tech try to nozzle them down for efficiency but that is not what we are looking for.

[BAP]

The blanket should be touching the bottom of your flues. Nozzle up and play with the pump psi then the air shutter to clean up the flame.The air shutter is what controls the draft. When you get all of that done then get an oil tech that under stands 701 burners to fine tune it. My son has a heating and plumbing business in Corinth and under stands them. Some tech try to nozzle them down for efficiency but that is not what we are looking for.

Good statement Brian about burner techs. Not all home heating techs can get an evaporator oil burner to perform well because they don’t understand that the end objectives are different than a furnace.

[Chasefamily]

The blanket should be touching the bottom of your flues. Nozzle up and play with the pump psi then the air shutter to clean up the flame.The air shutter is what controls the draft. When you get all of that done then get an oil tech that under stands 701 burners to fine tune it. My son has a heating and plumbing business in Corinth and under stands them. Some tech try to nozzle them down for efficiency but that is not what we are looking for.

Where should the ramp come flush with flues? Mine becomes flush with the bottom of the flues about 1/2 or 2/3 back of the flue pan. This was one thing i wanted to change the ramp to back it become flush at about 1/3 of flue pan.

Whats your sons business? Corinth isnt too far from me, well about 40 mins or so.

I will recheck my boil rate tonight since i have gotten the stack temp to 585 it seems to have a better overall boil everywhere. Not sure what i should expect to get for boil rate out of a 3x10 with 7 ft flue pan, but with wood i know i touched 120, although this was a with a freighted large fire box.

[Brian]

The flues should be 1/4 way in front of the ramp. The ramp is not that critical, you can have it square in the back the heat don't know the difference. It will travel the path with least resistance. the most important is to have a short combustion area, in other words keep the pump psi down to keep the ignition under the front pan. You don't want to force the flame back into your flues, you want the heat to heat up your front pan then travel back through the flues. Then you want to have the sap pan absorb the heat so its not going up the stack. It is also very important to make sure you have full combustion before it reaches your flues. William and I have talked about doing a reverse fire and building a box on the front for this reason.

[Chasefamily]

The flues should be 1/4 way in front of the ramp. The ramp is not that critical, you can have it square in the back the heat don't know the difference. It will travel the path with least resistance. the most important is to have a short combustion area, in other words keep the pump psi down to keep the ignition under the front pan. You don't want to force the flame back into your flues, you want the heat to heat up your front pan then travel back through the flues. Then you want to have the sap pan absorb the heat so its not going up the stack. It is also very important to make sure you have full combustion before it reaches your flues. William and I have talked about doing a reverse fire and building a box on the front for this reason.

Alright so that sounds like what i was thinking. I am going to fill in some of the area near the center of my flue pan as i believe i am a lil further back than that. I may experience with turning the pump psi down tonight as its still at 300 psi at the moment.

[Chasefamily]

Closed air until it started to smoke then added till it cleaned up. Looks to be right about 80 gals per hr. Stack temp was 575. Am I at a point that's good, or maybe nozzle up now?

[Mead Maple]

Chase, I am running a 2x8 this year (built arch, bought pans) and figured out my rates are not as high as I expected as well so do not lose hope. I am doing some things to get a better GPH as well. I actually adjusted my air today so that I had a longer reach towards to the flues while still maintaining a strong boil in my back syrup compartment (the one I draw from near flue pan). I’m hoping to tweak some things to get it a bit higher too


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